Jump to content

Turbo_Manx_Maniac

Members
  • Posts

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Location
    San Diego CA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Turbo_Manx_Maniac's Achievements

Hold My Beer and Watch This

Hold My Beer and Watch This (5/14)

  • Dedicated
  • Conversation Starter
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well

Recent Badges

26

Reputation

  1. What about someone else's mouth or rectum? That OK? Checking for a friend.
  2. I called Jamar twice, the second time I was able to get some info and things to try. They think the CNC slave was a 1" and the Jamar is a 3/4". So my only option is extending the arm to get more leverage. Going to have to figure out how to keep the piston pushed in a bit to get rid of the dead pedal.
  3. Good question, I only see "Slave" on the various websites, no mention of what bore size it is. When I call them about the "dead spot" in their master I'll ask about a slave size option.
  4. "Meaning, the piston could be sitting back from the bore in a way that allows it to push fluid back into the reservoir until the piston seals the bore from the reservoir." This is it exactly, with the cap off, I can see the fluid streaming upward for that first 1" of pedal travel. I am thinking of removing the piston and seeing if I can shim it so it just closes the hole in the master. Can't see a way of holding the pedal rod in a certain position without affecting the pedal position. I'll probably try and contact Jamar first and see what they say.
  5. Thoughts on taking the clutch lever arm and extending it 1/4 - 1/2" to reduce pedal effort?
  6. I have a 9" stage 2 clutch, 6 puck I bought from Outfront in my Manx, it had a CNC 5/8 Master and the normal CNC pulling slave. I've had the clutch fail (hydraulics) several times with no pedal, so I decided to replace it all after rebuilding the master & slave several times. As CNC doesn't exist anymore, and I want new rather than rebuilding yet again, I decided to try the Jamar 5/8" master and slave. As I hoped, it all installed very easy. All the bolt holes and dimensions matched up to the CNC. The issue is that even though I matched the master size, the pedal is much harder that it was with the CNC. It feels more precise, meaning there is not much slop in feeling where it starts to pull, and this may just be due to being fresh fluid and bleeding. I noticed there is no master options for the slave, and there is no smaller master. This is gonna give me some leg pump, I do some rock climbing and grubbeling, and I work the clutch a lot. Also, there is some dead pedal I can't get rid of, meaning I can't adjust the clutch to start at the beginning of pressing the clutch pedal. If I adjust the slave so there is a lot of tension on it, the old slave would start pulling it as soon as I touch the pedal, this one has an inch or so of travel before it does anything. If I lengthen the rod, it just pushes the pedal up higher in the resting position, the dead space is unchanged. The slave doesn't move in that first inch or so of travel. When I adjust the arm so the throwout bearing isn't quite touching, there is about 2-3 inches of travel before I feel the pull of the pressure plate. Anyone else have this experience? Have any ideas to make it a little easier? Like a longer clutch arm at the transmission (091)?
  7. I've been friends with PDM for ~ 30 years. Finally he said something smart.
  8. Putting another 2.0 engine into a car with a bad computer or whatever won't fix it, you'll just have 2 engines that wont start. Maybe John will let you send in your computer and he can test it? If not, I'd buy a new computer an harness and get a good base map put on it, then get a tune. At least you'll have something that's current and that you can log into. Unusual that the car wont start and you're having fan problems all starting at the same time. Sounds like a bad computer or wiring to me.
  9. Worthless game, neither team will go anywhere this year.
  10. Type the @ sign and their name, you'll see it or some like it pop up. Click the one you want. To tag, type in the @ character (shift 2) and the name of the person you want to tag right after the @ sign. It will pop up a name or list and you click which one you want. You'll only hear fuel on the return when the pump is on. BTW, if you pull the fan relays, the fan(s) don't run anymore right? Might want to invest in some relay sockets when you clean up the wiring, makes swapping relays a breeze. With loose wires, its easy to miss-wire in the heat of battle. Amazon.com: 10 Pack - Bosch Style 12V DC 5-PIN SPDT Interlocking Relay Socket Harness Base (with Wires) : Automotive To help with the computer program, does your laptop have a serial port, or a USB to serial adapter? In either case you have to find out what serial port is being used by your laptop. Go to control panel, and find device manager. In device manager, click "Ports (COM & LPT). It will show you all the COM ports on your laptop. Write them down and try each one in your tuning program. If none of them work, you might need a null modem cable, get it from Amazon in whatever sex you need. In California, all our cables are non-gender, you can plug whatever you want into them and they will promptly try and cancel you. 🤣. Amazon.com: StarTech.com 10' RS232 Serial Null Modem Cable - Null modem cable - DB-9 (F) to DB-9 (F) - 10 ft - SCNM9FF,Gray : Electronics Good luck! 🍻
  11. @Jammer75Do you have a laptop? If so, load the ECU software and plug into your computer, it'll tell you what all your sensors are doing, and if it sees cam and crank when you're trying to start the motor. If you can't, start with old school troubleshooting. You had wet plugs so probably not fuel pressure. Does the fuel pump run when you first turn on the key? Do you hear fuel going back into the tank from the return line? You know your cam and crank are timed correctly. So it's on to spark next. Check to see if all 4 plugs are sparking. Do you have COP or a coil pack? For the fans, my money is on a stuck relay. I have to swap both my fan relays about every 4 years. I run 40A relays and they still don't last. Lots of new parts are junk these days. Note: In your wiring nest...I would figure out what each relay does and label it. Then find out what every fuse does and label that. Carry a few spare relays and a fuse kit. You might need that info in the middle of the dunes at midnight sometime.
  12. For all of you losing sleep if my car is fixed, it's purring like a fat chick with a family size bucket.
  13. Late to the party, but check out 10 Amp Mini Timer Time Delay Relay .2 Sec to 400 days 6V 12V 18V. Power On Off Delay, Cycling and Trigger - - Amazon.com Its a relay that runs for a while after its been triggered. Combine that with a 1-2 psi pressure sensor and maybe you can use that to run the fans for a minute or so after it see's boost.
  14. Outfront to the rescue, all hooked up. Thanks John!

Shout Box

Shout Box

You don't have permission to chat.
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...

    Important Information

    Terms of Use Privacy Policy