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GoatPoker

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About GoatPoker

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    Dune Master
  • Birthday 04/07/1974

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    http://JPDesigns.net
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    jmcatlinturbo

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  • Location
    Chandler, AZ

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    Gotdon's
  • Your Ride
    JP Designs 2 seater

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  1. GoatPoker

    CV Grease

    Especially not with a big caulk
  2. If I were building a sand only car I would not use bypasses again. I think a single coil over and bump stops would be the best. We don’t need the oil volume and you can get coils to handle 90% of what is needed... then the bump stops are there fo big jumps and g-outs. Desert is a different game.
  3. I’ll Armchair quarterback and ask basics: 1) Check the inlet and outlet temps. Is the radiator cooling it at all? 2) Is the whole radiator core at temp? I.E. is it full 3) If you set the idle higher, like 1500-2000 will it cool off?
  4. Sorry, i was thinking 350/500 for some reason. 300/300 gives you 712lbs sprung. You could go 250/350. Gives you less spring rate and more step up. Get that 1.75’ back in and try this compression 1.75 - 10 1.0 - 12 1.75 - 15 1.6 - 15 1.5 - 12 1.3 - 12 1.15 - 12 1.0 - 12
  5. Some quick math. With 350/500 and 4.75” of compression, your shock is seeing 977lbs of sprung weight. So your 750 per tire seems reasonable. Need to take the tire and brake weigh off as unsprung and redo your spring calculator. You are likely a bit over sprung. Mid’s tend to buck so you’ll need more rebound damping when compared to a rear engine. You never confirmed if you are actually missing the 1.75” shim in the rebound stack? That’s a big deal.
  6. I’d need a bit more detail on the spring preload. (Free Length, preload, length at ride height) but given a few things I’d say you have: 1. Too much rear spring. I run 350/450 in a rear engine V8. 1,050 lbs per tire. 2. You do have a pretty serous flutter in the rear. 1.10x 0.015 should make her breathe pretty well. You could go 1.0 x 0.015 in the flutter (maybe even 0.020 if you want it to really move well) 3. After the flutter you go right to a 1.60 so you leave the ports open A LOT. This will essentially kill your damping and lead to the bottoming on jumps. Maybe go with a full stack of 0.012 after the flutter. 1.75, 1.60, 1.45, 1.30, 1.15, 1.0 all 0.012. 4. Rebound is a little wonky. Do you not have a 1.75 shim in there? If not your shock is totally not doing anything. That progressive stack is of no use in a coil sprung car. Straight 12’s or 10’s if you like it springy.
  7. Angles and mounting points are critical on the spring calcs. If you are not needing 2+” of preload then you are over sprung. That said, harshness is mostly in the valving. Need a lot of free bleed on lighter cars and heavy chop.
  8. I’ve seen them inside shocks before. The rubber will hold up to the oil. I think the smaller diameter of the aluminum spacer will eventually eat into the rubber, you’d want to have a washer to spread the load across the whole bumper. Maybe just make the aluminum space bigger or add another piece. Aluminumspacers.com
  9. If you like how it rides with the coil over now then I would recommend: 1) Put the same valving that is in the coil over into the bypasses 2) Put a light stack in the coil over compression and a dump valve in the rebound.
  10. Definitely not enough valving, but I would also worry about springs with limited travel. The 2-3” preload guideline is good for 18+” of travel but I find in the dunes a bit more spring is nice for g-outs and jumping. Even more so with 13” of travel. Less travel = more spring. Maybe target no MORE that 2” of preload. Then 12/10 should be pretty close. (Sorry, haven’t memorized the Fox #’s). 10’s might not be enough rebound control though... 15/12 is would be harsh I bet. Good control at high speed but rough in the ruts.
  11. DId you shim for toe or camber? How much?
  12. Yeah, i’m Pretty sure the angle of the pads is different from the original mount, plus the caliper sits deeper on the rotor so the old pads has a lip that is not dragging. I’ll run it for a bit and reseat the pads,
  13. I am reassembling my front end after getting some new spindles and the drivers side brake is dragging pretty hard. Almost can’t move the hub by hand. Passenger spins freely and locks up with pedal pressure but then returns to spinning. The drivers side lock with pedal but there is still a lot of resistance when pedal is off. Any ideas? No residual valve. RBP 4 piston, 11” Did have new uprights made so the contact patch of the brake pads is likely different then the previous upright...
  14. Since your chassis is isolated with funbags you don’t need to worry about parasitic ground loops on the coolant system

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