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jwest2sh last won the day on January 24

jwest2sh had the most liked content!

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About jwest2sh

  • Rank
    Dune Master
  • Birthday 09/09/1974

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Profile Information

  • Location
    El Cajon, CA.

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Glamis, Superstition, Plaster City, Ocotillo Wells
  • Your Ride
    2006 Desert Dynamics 416 LS3, PBS S5

Recent Profile Visitors

901 profile views
  1. jwest2sh

    solar battery tender?

    I have the 15W battery minder also. I have it connected to all 6 of my RV batteries and they are always fully charged. Got mine from northern tool. ~jw
  2. jwest2sh

    just got a car... help

    I've had realy good luck with CNC. They are available everywhere if you need a part and not too expensive. Their customer service is great too. I usualy buy them at Kartek. Jamar and ProAm are good too... ~jw
  3. jwest2sh

    just got a car... help

    Congrats on the new car! Welcome to the addiction! Those a-arm tabs are on the verge of failure. I wouldn't drive it like that. I would completely cut those tabs off and put new thicker ones one with weld washer. Not a big deal though. Look around at where the rear arms connect to the chassis at the pivots for cracks. I've found a lot there. ~jw
  4. jwest2sh

    2018 Summer upgrades on the Desert Dynamics

    I saw your thread on the broken shock. I've never seen a shock break like that. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "Over bumped arm" either? I think your on the right path with changing the shock mounts though. If you upper shock mount is in way to far from the lower mount...at full bump you could be binding and puting a lateral load on that shock body. I'm not sure bump stops would solve your problem with breaking the shock....if that's what your refering to? Even with bump stops the shock or bipass is what bottoms out....at least that's how I set mine up. My bumps are set up with a little travel left when the shock bottoms. My shock mounts are much stronger than the bump stop mounts so I let the shock mounts take the load. The bumps just slow the motion down before it hits rubber. I did a thread on my rear arms and bumps when I built them back on 2016 . Here's the link. 👇 In the other picture you can see my bipass bottomed out and the bump still has some travel left. The rubber bump stop on the bipass will still squish some but the hydro bump stop never bottoms out. ~jw ~jw
  5. jwest2sh

    Ryder's on the storm!

    So cool man! Congrats...I just got mine on his quad for the first time last trip too! He just turned 5. So much fun watching them learn to ride. I still remember riding my friends 70cc around the berm track for hours at Buttercup. ~jw IMG_0846[1].MOV
  6. jwest2sh

    Chenowth Genesis info

    There was a really nice all white Genesis for sale on hear a few years ago with a blown Honda 3.5....very cool car! Fibertech in Santee had the jigs for the Chenowth chassis before they closed the doors several years ago. Last I heard, HRT in Ramona, CA had the jigs. The Genesis was the older version of the chassis but was a good design. I always liked the Genesis. The Exodus was the bigger version of the Genesis. I'd love to get my hands on one of those! They are a smaller chassis so perfect for trails and good for dunning. I wouldn't put anything bigger than a V6 in it....you can stuff a V8 in there but they were never designed for it. The Exodus was. Give HRT a call...they can problaby give you more info. HRT - (760) 788-0019 ~jw
  7. jwest2sh

    2005 Ford F-350 6.0 part out

    Do you take the beds off the fleet trucks when you get them to put the flatbeds on them? You wouldn't happen to have a shortbed or even a tailgate laying around would ya? ~jw
  8. jwest2sh

    2005 Ford F-350 6.0 part out

    4X4? How’s the front axle? I wonder how much work it would be to swap it over to mine? 2000 F250?
  9. jwest2sh

    Added some mufflers to my honda today!

    Nice work! I put two small inline mufflers on my new motor and it's still way too loud for me....I'm getting old I guess? I really wanted to do one big flowmaster or something but they were all just too big for my rear cage. I used to think louder is better....now not so much! LOL ~jw
  10. Ya...thats a big one. The 7.3 is kinda a dog until you bring it to live with the chip, exhaust and intake. Wicked wheel II made a huge difference. Gets rid of that turbo cavitation. I have a BRV coming too. Should be here tomorrow. I noticed mine defueling coming up the grade with the trailer when over 25lbs of boost. Had to back out of it for a second then get back in the throttle. The BRV fixes that. Tricks the MAP to seeing less than 25PSI. The probe should be pre-turbo, either in the up-pipe or manifold behind #8. The manifold will read a tick higher because of the thick cast iron holding heat. Up pipe is the best spot but you'll need to pull the pipe and weld in a bung. Most guys just drill and tap the manifold. Mine is getting bellowed up-pipes this summer. I heard a minor leak coming up the grade. Pretty common on the 7.3's. ~jw
  11. Ya...I have the Hydra chip. I can tow my 9K enclosed up the I-8 grade in the 80HP Tow tune and the EGT's get to 1250 briefly on the steep parts then right back down to 1100-1150 doing 60MPH. I use the Autometer Ultra-lite gauges in the pod on the A pillar. My probe is in the up-pipe right after the collector by the exhaust mainifold on the driver side. Where is you probe? ~jw
  12. Dang....22 gal seem so small? I think mine is 29 but I can jam 31 or so in it. I wish it was 50! ~jw
  13. I contemplated the sump...I just didn't want to worry about that O-ring leaking over time.... + having the fuel line exposed and so low. The X-over rail was one of my first mods. Huge diffrence! It quieted down the motor a lot! ~jw
  14. Haven't posted on this thread for a while. I been busy with the new motor in the buggy. I finally had some time for more upgrades to the 7.3. I ditched the old nasty rubber radiator hoses and put in some Mishimoto silicone hoses. I changed the rubber hose from the degas bottle to the radiator to silicone too. I changed the stock 194* thermostat for a Dieselsite 203*. The motor actually gets up to operating temp now. Seems to run smoother and its quieter. That big ass Mishimoto radiator keept it so cool that it never really warmed up. I pulled the fuel tank and did the Hutch mod and the Harpoon mod to the tank. The Hutch mod elimitates the screen filters in the tank that are prone to clogging. Mine weren't too bad but it looks like my tank had been pulled before. The rubber foot on the pickup looked pretty new (also a known failure part). I replaced it anyway. I put stainless tubing in place of the screens and re-loacated the return line further away from the pickup to reduce aeration. I built a bracket out of aluminum plate and installed a pre-pump filter with water seperator on the frame rail. This will be more efficient and easier to change. The fuel line I used isn't rubber. Its some kind of sythetic hose I got from HRP that is rated for diesel. They said silicone was no good for diesel fuel. The Harpoon mod allows the tank to be filled up to the top easier without clicking the pump off. You basically just cut about 4" off of the fill tube that goes down in to the tank. There are several youtube vids on it. Here's some pics. The gray tube in the last one is the pice of the fill tube I cut off. ~jw
  15. jwest2sh

    Theft prevention ideas. Buggies, Tow Rig, etc.

    I forgot to mention...I used to put a pretty good size cable lock through the wheels when I parked it on the street at my old house...until I forgot to unlock it one day. I pulled away and sheered that thing in half and I didn't hear or feel a thing, until my neighbor told me I was dragging something! Ah....SH#%! I don't use a cable lock anymore. It was useless. I have aluminum wheels with rounded hols in them too....not the steel wheels with sharp edges. Didnt' even make a mark on the wheel. ~jw

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