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Everything posted by jwest2sh

  1. I had the throttle on my Honda stick wide open one time with just the stock spring....scared the SH%$ out of me! I put another spring from the pedal back to the throttle cable mount on the floor. ~jw
  2. 5 years on mine...no issues at all. I pull it out and clean it by hand every two years. Hasn't been that dirty. Just a little foam stuck to it is all. ~jw
  3. Can you PM me a price on 36x17” #2 STU? thanks, ~jw
  4. Here's what I use: https://www.kartek.com/parts/cbr-radiator-weld-on-mounting-kit-with-urethane-pads-will-also-fit-pwr-and-ron-davis-radiators.html I can't speak to the quality of these but they are cheap and narrow. You could probably keep it pretty low on the cage? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0829NN8TP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0829NN8TP&pd_rd_w=svI4O&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=4zLxD&pf_rd_r=7KSNTKD38446GZJJPAXD&pd_rd_r=3300e87d-0e28-43e8-8a0b-4815a3d5d978&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRU5XMlVRUzVMTE45JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzA5MzUwMlJUQTRCWTBXM0gyVCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjUwMjk0Mk01S1UxUjFJUlAxNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= ~jw
  5. Kartek sells some nice radiator mounts to put it on the rear cage behind the seats. It come with rubber pads and won’t crack the radiator when the chassis twists. I’ve used them on several cars. One of the board members on here did a couple VW to Honda swaps and used replacement jeep Cherokee radiators from amazon or eBay. They’re pretty cheap and come with three fans. Also, I use all silicone instead of rubber elbows and aluminum tubing for my coolant lines. They last forever and allow the radiator to move around in its mount a little. Rubber gets hard and brittle over time.
  6. Just got mine last week. Looks awesome. Haven't had a chance to put it on yet but very high quality. Thanks Jeff! ~jw
  7. I wouldn't. The spiral clips are super cheap on McMaster Carr.
  8. The sway bar was a game changer for my car. So much better. Would a sway bar that the arms come forward from the rear of the car work? Like a lot of the Ultra 4 cars or TT are running?
  9. Nope...he didn't buy it. Wanted way too much money for it.
  10. Two of my buddies have the new F150 ecoboost 3.5 w/ tow package. One tows a small toyhauler 10K loaded. The other tows a 22' enclosed w/ a 4 seat X3 in it. Both say powerwise, it pulls no problem with the 10 speed trans but it does sway quite a bit, especialy in the wind. They both run weight distribution hitches with sway control. I looked at replacing my 7.3 with one a while back. The 3.5 ecoboost is rated 13,200, and the 5.0 is rated at 11,500. I think if your towing less than 10K you'll be fine with the Ecoboost. They do make the 2.7 that tows quite a bit less.
  11. Looks like you have uni-balls upper and lower so you won't be able to adjust it much. Maybe a little from the heims on the arms at the bulkhead and A-pillar by moving them in or out? Does your car have a sway bar? Love the look of that thing!
  12. Mine used to do the same thing. How much caster do you run? I had like 11-12* stock. I think I changed it to 6* and it's still stable at over 100 mph. The sway bar really helped too. I run a 1 1/8" solid sway bar.
  13. Looks like 15" center to center on between the upper A arm pivots, and 8.5" center to center from the upper A arm pivot bolt to lower A arm pivot bolts. The 8.5" is what it was stock. The only one I changed was the distance between the upper pivots, which shortened my upper arms. That was the dimensions from Daves newer DD bulkhead design.
  14. I never got the file from my Buddy Tim who plugged the measurements into Solidworks. I don't think he has that file anymore because his computer quite working shortly after we did that project and he got a new one. I can take some measurements on my car if you need me to? I belive I kept the height the same as it was stock, but I moved them out about 7" or so. I might have even posted up the measurements on my thread...I'll have to go back through it and look.
  15. No...sorry Kevin. I've been doing a remodel so the attic is a disaster. They are buried up there somewhere. I'll be up there tonight and I'll look for them.
  16. Welcome to the addiction! Nice setup. As stated above....try to ride with someone or be within waking distance of a road or camp. Sh&*t happens....often at Glamis. Never go straight over anything....just assume it's straight down or someone is on the other side and you'll be fine. Have fun!! ~jw Oh ya....don't haul ass in the washes! You will find a berm track eventually!
  17. If you put the whole system back together and power bleed them you’ll be fine. If you don’t have access to a power bleeder just bleed them until the fluid is clean, then a little more.
  18. Gotcha...you'll be able to adjust it somewhat with the bias bar on the dual MC's.
  19. I forget...is this car going to be street legal? If so....keep the 4 piston in the front.
  20. Good choice. Ya...they look like -3 to me. The blue AN blukhead fittings are for sure -3 and more than likely so are the braided lines. Just double check the 90* fittings that come out of the MC's and calipers. I've found them mix matched on other cars I've worked on before. You should be able to tell by looking at them and comparing the angles. Just a thought...if possible you might consider putting the 4 piston in the rear. Buggies are different than cars. All the weight is in the back and you want the rear to lock up first so you can still steer.
  21. I think these are the clamps you were looking for: 1" tubing: https://www.mooreparts.com/latest-rage-611112c-1-00-chrome-aluminum-3-16-brake-line-clamp-for-1-tubing/ 1.5" tubing https://www.mooreparts.com/latest-rage-611112-1-5-chrome-aluminum-3-16-brake-line-clamp-for-1-1-2-tube/ What size calipers do you have front/rear? If they are all two piston and you have a 3/4" or larger MC I'd bleed them and see how they work. If they are too soft or have too long of a pedal travel you may need a larger MC or upgrade to the dual setup. The theory behind having dual MC's so if you loose pressure on the front or rear that you still have brakes is false...I lost my rear due to a large amount of air in the turning brake braking loose and the front didn't work either. The bias bar just swings so far to the other side that it will run out of travel before it engages the front MC enough to stop the car. So I essentially had no brakes. I think the real reason for having dual MC's is so you can run bigger brakes. I have 6 piston rears and 4 piston fronts so there's no way a single MC can push enough fluid to move the pads.
  22. If you run AN they are -3. Be careful not to mix -3 with standard brake line fittings you can buy at Napa or autozone. Standard brake lines are 45* and -3 are 37*. The WILL thread together and sometime will works but will eventually develop leaks. If you use AN you should replace all fittings with -3 AN if they have standard fittings on them. You can get away with a single MC with 4 wheel brakes. My last car had it and it worked fine...it just requires a large piston MC and will have a long pedal throw. You won't be able to run bigger than a 2 piston caliper on front or rear. The best way to go is a dual MC setup front/rear with a bias bar. The bolt pattern should be the same for the pedal assembly but you'll need an additional clutch set up with another MC.
  23. What a bummer for that guy.....this is why I keep my 7.3
  24. Wow... $275 is a smokin deal! Looking forward to the build... I had a 4 seat limo with a Turboed Honda 3.0. Loved that car. ~jw

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