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rayspeed

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About rayspeed

  • Rank
    Dune Master
  • Birthday 02/25/1964

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Tucson

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Camp Trump in Ogilby
  • Your Ride
    X-3 rs

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403 profile views
  1. The smallish size of the bottles they send you for the price might shock you. I can guarantee that you will not apply it as generously as they show on their promo's or it will be gone in a flash. It is similar to the watery milky consistency of 303 protectant which is a great product for allot of other things but not typically not marketed for paint. If I had access to a mass spectrometer I would be seriously tempted to see if it is the same stuff repackaged.. I would not bet on it being same stuff but I also would not be surprised if it was. It seems to have zero of the ultra fine grit stuff in it that really does the work of removing oxidation, scuffs, water spots and fine scratches so that may be a plus or minus for you depending on what you are shining on but how often do you find yourself shining up something brand new that does not need some cleaning? I find myself using this waterless dual polymer stuff that is marketed much the same way... only downside is that you have to shake it before you spray it as it does have some fine grit to it but I find that a plus on most of what I shine on. https://buydualpolymer.com/enter-store/dualpolymer-car-products/ It is much more reasonably priced compared to the f-11 and they often have 30% off and free shipping.. so you probably end up with multiple times more of this product than the f-11 for the same price. It smells great in my opinion like cotton candy or bubble gum and does a great job of removing light oxidation on fiberglass and water spots and I really like the job it does on glass. The f-11 smells like nothing. I was not overly impressed with their other products... so I would not recommend getting carried away with a big package deal like I did.
  2. As the price of these go down the temptation grows larger for me... There is a seller on ebay that uses new chevy volt cells and configures 12volt packs from 50 to 400 ah or more with bms for a pretty good price however when it came down to it the odd shape of them would not fit in step of my moho where my two gc batts currently live. However I do goof around with solar, batteries and inverters at the house to power some things to minimize getting into the higher tiered rates so they still intrigue me somewhat. I found a guy that had purchased and was selling a 400ah pack with bms for basically half price at 1k and seemed like a great deal but what bothered me was that he said that even with light loads his inverter would start having low voltage alarms because of the lower voltage that lithium supplies. I do not know if he just had a junky inverter or what but he was selling more because he got in over his head and did not want to upgrade his charger and what not so he just spent another 2k for a pair of those battle born drop ins for 200ah and he was more than happy with them. I mention this as the cost per amp hour might be worth it to some people out there looking into this subject that do not have space limitations.
  3. I have a gibson ghost cat delete pipe that I did not end up using if somebody wants to avoid the hassle of removing the turbo band clamp and all of that for $85 shipped. It is pretty slick and the easiest quickest easiest and cheapest way to delete your cat... well maybe not the cheapest if you want the hassle of hammering your cat out. You can use a portable band saw, hack saw or cut off saw to cut the pipe just before the cat and this pipe uses a high quality wide stainless band clamp to clamp this pipe to complete the system to where the muffler spring clamps go on. https://gibsonperformance.com/i-23266335-can-am-maverick-turbo-x3-ghost-cat-stainless-98036.html
  4. Probably take a c-note for all four for the best of both worlds. $60 for the two skates wheels and tires seems fair. The rims are itp and more on the thick and durable side than thin and bendy. No chunks out of any of the paddles... perfectly worn down. The sharks took a wack by a root at the cinders but hold air and you would never know riding on them all held air good last I remember. I got some front single ribs on wheels to that match up nice. Will be at oglilby from this late saturday to new years.
  5. Your porting and pipe selection makes a big difference vs a close to stock 250r... along with your riding style. If your power band comes on like a light switch and hits really hard with straight paddles you better be planning to go straight... unpredictable at best and kind of dangerous at worst. I would not really be looking for anything new If I were you... buy a well worn set for wet sand and a pair and a less worn set for dry sand for the best overall experience. My favorites were also a set of well worn sand skate 2's. I have a set on rims I would let go cheap if your going out next week or two. I also have a set of less worn set of sand sharks on rims I don't need anymore also that was my setup and my r is long gone.
  6. I had this problem with my motorhome right off the bat when it was brand new. Instead of having the dealer poke around and probably mess something up I found the big contactor in that control center that tied all the batteries together pretty easy by tracing the big wires. Seems that the bypass switch on the dash that would allow you to jump start the chassis from the house batteries closed that contactor. So I ran a switch to where I could control it either manually or automatically close that contactor with a switch that was only powered with the key on. So figuring that I had a decent size solar panel to keep the batts up and a voltage read out I can see the house batteries and I end up only having to flip that switch when going downhill for the extra engine braking or to top off the house batteries on the last few miles of a trip. I figure the alt will last longer this way and possibly the batteries too because the house and chassis batteries have different charging requirements anyway.
  7. To run two a/c's with a 4k gen they would have to be the newer more efficient power saving units running off a load shedding controller that keeps both compressors from starting at the same time at a minimum and possibly a controller that allows only one compressor to run at at time. Makes me wonder if these units are running a scroll compressor or what but that would be the first place to start for efficiency improvements... the standard rv a/c's are horribly inefficient and hard starting especially when the ambient temps are over 100 degrees. If its any indication I did a little research and here is a unit like what I am talking about that is a factory refurb... https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Air-Conditioner-Coleman-Mach-Mach-3-Pow-Sav-WHITE-13500-BTU-48208R966/263946451026?epid=1128707380&hash=item3d746f3852:g:qbYAAOSwdGFYzuAX:rk:40:pf:0 Makes me wonder if they are not ready for prime time so to speak and they are using the public as their test bed. Keep in mind that the 4k gen is a single cylinder running at 3600 rpm so take that into account and where it is mounted as the are kind of like a well muffled contractor generator buzing along and can be allot more irritating than say a 5500 unit loping along at 1800 rpm.
  8. Somewhat obviously they come in full height as in bolted to the floor or the short version that is up on a platform. The foot valve would not be a great choice if what you have is on a platform and as stated sticking to the same brand gives you a better chance of bolting right up but I would not count on it. The water valves on the porcelain ones seem to be somewhat more sensitive to hard water buildup in my experience and bleeding thru but you can get a kit to rebuild them... might be worth it to have one on board if they are cheap enough considering most of us dry camp and having a valve leak thru and go thru all you water and filling your black tank is no fun.
  9. Package appears to have been delivered... Have fun!
  10. I saw that thanks it probably helped the sale! No that is the only set I had... maybe matt would let you try them out I am with mac in that that not everyone is going to like them on a bike but a damper is almost required in the dunes imho.
  11. Deal made on the bars above... Thanks for the prompt payment matt! Will get them on the way!
  12. More like $350 for a new set! I have these vintage flexx bars (single cross bar) that would go good on a vintage 70 that I would let go fairly cheap! Gonna need either fat bar clamps or the pictured small to fat bar adapters to make them work. Also have a bag of different compound dampers. Anyone that wants to give them a go make a reasonable offer and they are yours!
  13. They were not bad power plants if left stock but guys who modified them too much paid the price with dropped valves from winding them out too much. But yeah big guys only apply because skinny guys could not get enough weight far enough on the back to make the suspension work over the whoops.
  14. If one of these is in your budget and will fit your needs just take it to an independent shop for an overall inspection and emphasize them really looking over the brakes before you make an offer. I would not avoid the workhorse chassis over this one supplier caused issue because they were generally well engineered as opposed to the GM or Ford supplied chassis that proceeded them as they were inadequate in nearly every aspect. I did have a short 26' version of one of these from 02-06 that had IFS and do believe this issue was starting to happen just before I traded it in on an 06 32' version with the solid front axle and this has not been an issue because I think the issue was well known by then and probably proceeded its build date.

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