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SEAN@WEDDLE

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About SEAN@WEDDLE

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    sean@weddleindustires.com

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  1. SEAN@WEDDLE

    Pbs s4

    Besides some of the shortcomings of the original design issues on the Mendeola cases, many of the issues they had with cases breaking was due to bad castings, which is not completely their fault. Sometimes with sand cast housings, there will be voids that develop inside the casting that are not visible from the exterior, this is mostly due to bad casting procedures. Those manufacturing facilities are known to us and no longer receive any business from us. There are a few design flaws that we have had to work around and keep in today's revised designs as it would have created way too much of a difference from new to old versions that would require the end consumer to have to upgrade far too many parts just to change a simple worn out part. We have done the best we can with the original design to fix those issues, and I am more than confident that those fixes are holding up perfectly well. An S5 in a class 10 car just won the Baja 1000, just not in class 10, but beat the 1st class 1 V8 unlimited buggy by over an hour. Ask anyone in the know about how hard class 10 cars are on drivetrain and you can get an idea of what we are up against keeping these things together. The gear stack positioning does not really add a quantifiable strength to the PBS over the Mendeola/Weddle design. The idea was to place the gear that gets used the most (2nd gear) close to a bearing for the best support as the 2 shafts are being pushed away from each other under heavy loads. We have not seen any real world evidence that placing the gears in the PBS order actually helps anything. They get the same amount of wear and tear between the 2 units. The PBS trans now does have a weak area in the gear carrier/shift housing. When they updated the housings to use the larger mainshaft ball bearing, it made a very thin wall between the mainshaft bearing bore and the shift drum bearing bore. Ask me how many of these housings have cracked over the past few years. There are currently a few of these sitting idle oversea's waiting on replacement housings. I want to make it very clear that I am in no way bashing on the PBS trans, but I wouldn't be doing my job if I was not backing up the products that I sell through Weddle as providing answers to the questions asked in this forum. As I have said before, we/I was pushing the PBS over the Mendeola sequential units before we purchased the Mendeola program. They are a good trans and hold up quite well for the majority of people. Keep in mind that there are far more Mendeola transaxle units being used over the PBS units, there will invariably be more talk amongst the campfire mechanics about the issues the Mendeola units had. Believe me when I say that they both have their shortcomings, and we have swapped out more than a few PBS units for our redesigned Weddle units in the past few years as needed. I do not have any pictures showing the difference between these. I have never taken a picture of the PBS housings where they now crack through.
  2. SEAN@WEDDLE

    Pbs s4

    I had an entire response written out, but erased it after letting my better judgement guide me. We will just have to let the results show our efforts in the coming years.
  3. SEAN@WEDDLE

    Pbs s4

    With all of the changes we have made to the entire line of formerly "Mendeola" transaxles (Now rebranded as Weddle units) we have seen far fewer failures. We keep a very close watch on all of the parts that we put to market and look to identify any issues that come up. The great thing is that we are able to work closely with all of the transaxle shops that see far more services of these than we can in house, and they are more than helpful in letting us know about any issues. So for all that we have really changed on our housings since we fixed the common failure points is making them easier to assemble for the builder to save them time. I have to say that our redesigning and engineering has brought the S4/5 and S4D/S5D to the forefront of the market for that price point transaxle. Yes, I need to work up a common parts quote that shows all of the parts needed. It's not cheap, but it does save some money over a complete new trans if you have a good gear set and R&P to reuse.
  4. I think some builders just started doing the looped line based off of what they saw others do. I don't know that any of them have any real scientific reasoning behind the loops. Please let us know how the rerouted vent works out after a few trips. Thanks for the feedback. Just as an FYI, every race car I've worked on, will always spit some oil out of the vent lines. It's just a fact of life. If you want to clean it up properly, add a catch can somewhere for all of the vented oil lines that you need. Take a look at Robby Gordons SST trucks, he has a 5 gallon gas can sitting where the passenger seat would be with all of the vent lines draining into it so he can run those things on the road courses.
  5. SEAN@WEDDLE

    Pbs s4

    1. At the time, the PBS had stronger housings compared to the Mendeola S4/5, which was the main reason we pushed them. But they still shared mostly the same shift mechanism and issues that come with that design. 2. I would not say the Weddle cases are a "huge" upgrade over the PBS main case, but the PBS gear carrier/shift housing does have a thin spot between the bearing bores that is known to crack with the newer/larger mainshaft bearing. These have been cracking pretty regularly since they redesigned the housing to use the larger bearing. 3. Entire 1st-5th gear stack, sliders, hubs are from us is about $4350. You would need to get a shift drum and forks from PBS at their cost. R&P is the same.
  6. SEAN@WEDDLE

    Pbs s4

    Like Flip-Flop said, PBS has scaled back on their manufacturing of parts. They are no longer shelving parts, but are now machining as needed from what I understand (This is what Steve told me earlier this year). They are a good trans, remember that we actually pushed them over the Mendeola sequential before we purchased the Mendeola program back in 2013. The parts that will cause issues going forward would be housings. Those are very expensive to cast and machine on a small scale, I don't know what they have planned to keep that up. A broken housing might cause either a very long wait time to get a new one, or a worst case scenario beyond that. Most of the other shift mechanism parts rarely break, and we will still be able to provide gear train and any other parts that cross over with the Weddle sequentials.
  7. Does your pump kick on more now with the 150º temp switch I sent you?
  8. Only the newer cases and DECO cases have the plug on top to make oil fill easier. Still use the plug on the passenger side of the trans next to the CV joint for fill level. All other cases will need to fill oil through this plug as well.
  9. You're hired. Got plenty of e-mails that you can answer for me. 😄
  10. The Subaru transaxles are actually a great gearbox for what they were designed for. Albins does make forward gears for them, but they are not cheap and only have 2 sets of gear ratio's, factory and rally, the rally gears are still pretty tall as those cars use a fairly small tire. The problem they have is the small R&P set, which is about the same size as a VW bus R&P, which is the limiting factor for off-road use. We simply need a good size R&P to have a low enough ratio and still be strong, which is the reason for a 10" and larger sets. As mentioned already, the forward gearing is pretty tall and there are not much options made to be lower. We looked into these transaxles pretty heavily as an option for off-road use, but the R&P is the limiting factor and is really only good for a 200 HP or less 4 banger. The amount of money one would have to spend to make these transaxles useful in a 33" tire buggy is still more than we offer other gearboxes for that will hold up better. The only useful vehicle these would be good in is a primarily driven Baja bug or Manx type vehicle with very low amount of offroad use.
  11. The only thing I would like to add to this conversation is clutch's need to be broken in BEFORE YOU RUN THE PISS OUT OF THEM ON THE DYNO! I can't tell you how many people have called me to complain about a clutch slipping on the dyno, usually for the high horsepower guys that love seeing the big numbers on paper before they take the car to the sand. A clutch is very much like a set of brakes, the materials are not that much different. They will need at least a day or 2 of easy driving to let them break in. If you are installing a brand new clutch or resurfaced with new discs, please take the time to break it in before seeing how high that line goes on the chart.
  12. Something is not right if the trans is for sure in neutral, clutch pedal in or not. If it the starter is indeed trying to drive the car forward while the trans is in neutral and the clutch pedal out, the only possibility is a dragging synchronizer on one of the gears. This is not uncommon if new synchro's have been installed as they can tend to stand up a little tall on the gear and not allow the shafts to spin freely. Easiest remedy for this is jack the wheels off the ground and let the engine idle as you shift through all of the gears allowing the tires to spin. Do this quite few times as it should allow the synchros to break in on the gears. If the clutch pedal is in and the car is still trying to drive with the starter motor, then you either have a dragging clutch or bad pilot bearing. Both issues will still be allowing power to go though the input shaft of the trans and drive the car. If you have a dragging synchronizer and clutch or bad pilot bearing, this is the only way the car will still drive forward with the starter motor. The best way to make sure your clutch is not dragging or adjusted properly: Put the trans in gear, jack one rear tire off the ground, have one person push in the clutch pedal while another person is trying to turn the wheel off the ground. The tire will turn somewhat freely through the transmission once the clutch is fully open. If the tire is still dragging with the clutch pedal fully depressed, verify you have a good bleed on the system with no air bubbles. Check to make sure the pedal isn't hitting anything or the stop is properly adjusted. Make sure the slave cylinder at the trans is throwing far enough to open the clutch. Make sure the master and slave cylinder o-rings and bores are in good condition and not allowing fluid to bypass them losing pressure.
  13. You're overthinking it a bit. I would say position the hole closer to the bell housing, as close as you can while still being able to get a tool on the hex of the fitting, so probably about a 1/2" back from where the casting starts to transition up towards the thick part of the housing that bolts to the bell housing. I would locate the hole as far away from the center rib would be best, so the fitting is farthest away from the ring gear throwing oil as it can be. Maybe about an 1" or so from where the housing starts to transition down to the side cover. Don't fret over case strength, a small hole on top is not going affect the case at all in this area.
  14. One could theoretically do the same with a compressor nozzle through any of the other fill/drain plugs to blow the debris out and away from the hole. Good idea.
  15. I don't have any pictures handy to show this. But if you look at the top of your main case (differential housing), there will be a center rib running the length of the trans. The ring gear will always be located on the left side of the car (as looking from the rear, or drivers side for us 'Merican's), regardless of whether it is mid or rear engine placement. You will always want the vent fitting on the passenger side of that center rib, other wise the rotation of the ring gear while driving will spin the oil into that vent fitting and purge it all out. This happened by mistake on a brand new Albins trans a few years ago where the installer changed the layout of the car, flipped the ring gear themselves, but did not change the vent location. It was a very expensive mistake to the tune of $10k+. Yes, it is best to have the housings drilled and tapped while it is apart, but it is not the end of world to do this while it's together if done carefully. Putting some moly on the drill bit right before it punches through the housing, and also on the tap will reduce the amount of aluminum debris pushed through into the trans. Aluminum is soft enough that it does not pose a huge risk to the parts inside the trans.

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