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SEAN@WEDDLE last won the day on March 27

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  1. Stumbled across this today, I'll chime in. The rear gearbox (trans) is virtually the same as the Polaris RZR, made by the same manufacture. They have some very small fine tooth gears that are made as fast as possible and cut out of the cheapest material they can use. Typical failures have been high gear and the rear final drive gear breaking teeth off. We do our "Weddle Race Prep" to these the same way we do the Polaris and Can-Am trans, debur the sharp corners off of the gears to reduce the chance of a crack starting. Shot peen the gears to reduce surface tension, further reducing the chance for a crack to start. Micro polish the gears to help with longevity and reduce friction. Replace all of the Chinese bearings with high quality SKF, Koyo, ***, etc. bearings, these have been a main failure point in the Polaris trans. Finally, we take measurements of all of the shafts and add a specific amount of preload to keep them from moving around inside the housings, this is a main cause of bearing wear and case failures. This is basically the same process that we have done for the early VW transaxles to get them to survive off-road use in the early days. The front diff in the Arctic-Cat/Textron is a whole other level of bad engineering and design, but I have been getting them to be a bit better. The main issue is to properly set the ring gear to have proper gear lash for lubrication, the entire diff carrier needs to be moved 0.060"-0.080", which is a huge amount. Once proper gear lash is adjusted, the diff carrier is moved over so far that the diff lock mechanism can no longer be used, so I have to leave the differential as an "open" diff, once you get one wheel off the ground, you will lose forward drive from the front. This is not a big deal for use in the sand as is actually makes the car drive better, it's more of an issue for rock crawling and mud/snow/ice driving. So far, we can get them to survive, but they are still not bullet proof. We will make HD gears for them someday, we are actually clearing up some design time for all of the UTV drivetrains, hopefully we'll have some HD gears for Can-Am front diff's next year.
  2. Needs to be a VW Type 1/002 starter (IMI 101).
  3. We will be getting a few years supply for the shelf, so we will have plenty to sell and fulfill backorders. We are hoping for July to get these back in stock. Hopefully, we are done having to make any revisions to these cases and housings that delay the production of them. We made a few small tweaks for easier assembly that delayed us a bit, but will be better going forward. Going forward, we will only have to "order" them and not spend time revising drawings and working with the machine shop to make sure they are doing them correctly.
  4. I have 2 things to say about this topic: 1. I would tell you that it would be better to put your money towards the 5 speed conversion. The shorter 1st-4th gear splits will stay the same as you have them now, which you stated that you liked, and the 5th gear will drop your RPM's on longer runs. If you are happy the amount of power you have, it would be better for the trans to not throw more power at it. 2. I will also tell you that I have no problem with you putting your money towards a bigger motor with Alper or your preferred engine builder. More power through your trans will certainly make you a returning customer to us as you stress out ring and pinions. Then at some point you will require a "D" trans to handle the extra power once you get tired of spending money on replacing R&P sets. I see it as a win/win. Simply giving all of the information to let the customer make an informed decision.
  5. We are still waiting on main cases to get machined. Hoping for July as of today.
  6. All parts in stock and ready to go. Only problem we will have right now is no input shafts for the chevy bell housing.
  7. Don't get too hung up on the fact that S5 gears are narrower than S4, they will easily handle upwards of 800 HP in a sandcar, and that's probably a conservative number. They are almost the same width as the gears in the Albins sequential trans. The reason they can't handle as much as an Albins is other factors to the original gear design and the way they fit onto the shafts.
  8. They will use the block mounted factory starter location and full size 168t flywheel.
  9. A quality shifter will certainly make a difference in the way the trans shifts, but I would have another probable cause to this. Cold gear oil is pretty thick until it warms up to about 125ºF. This cold, thick oil gets in behind the synchronizers that grab the gear who's job is to slow down or speed up the gear as you shift into the gear. This cold oil does not want to move out of the way easily so the synchro cannot grab the gear to change it's speed so you can shift into it. This is where you might feel like you cannot position the shift lever into gear. If the problem goes away when the trans warms up, then this is your likely culprit. A lower weight oil can prevent this in cold temperatures, but at the expense of losing the protection factor on the gears and causing excessive wear.
  10. There really is no way to measure how long any trans can last with the way that these are being used. There are just far too many variables. I've said it multiple times, I will say it again: One car with a big V8 can go out every other weekend and make the trans last for 5+ seasons without every touching it, then service it and all it needs is seals and a mainshaft bearing, $1500 service. Another car with a 250 HP 4 cylinder can be used a few times a year and need a service every other season, then need a new mainshaft and 2nd gear, 3rd gear, pinion bearings, etc., $2500+ service. It's all in how it's driven and the terrain it's driven on.
  11. Throw as much as you want at them, I have bills to pay. 😎
  12. The McCleod clutch should fit in the BH, but you will have to take the proper measurements to figure out the correct throw out bearing spacing and air gap. We will REM polish all of the necessary components for $395.00, this includes the shift drum and any items that have "friction" in the trans. We do not recommend the cryogenic treatments to our gears as there are some bad effects on gears that have been finely tuned in our heat treat process. Better explained over a phone call.
  13. We list the correct pilot bearing and throw out bearing including spacing in the description for all of our clutch kits on the website. I am going to see if we can get a better type of spreadsheet made that will be easier to figure out what is needed a bit faster with less searching.
  14. Correct. Correct. The only factor that would compare strength would be what ratio. A 4.86 2D and a 4.86 S4/5 are the exact same gear, just different pinion shaft. The only thing that one might call me out on is that an S4/5 has a 4.57 option, which is stronger than a 4.86, where as a 2D does not offer a 4.57 ratio, only 4.86 and lower. The taller the ratio, the stronger the gear is.

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