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SEAN@WEDDLE last won the day on July 22 2019

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  1. Drain trans oil and see what comes out on magnet. I would also say that just because the CV joints look good, does not mean they were not binding up somewhere in the travel. You would have to put them back together and cycle through the travel while turning the tires with one on the ground to make sure they are free and not bound up anywhere.
  2. As Nikal said, we do handle rebuilds on these as well now, enough for us to pretty much start up an entire division here at Weddle as it's pretty much myself and Will do full time in the shop now. Call or e-mail me for more info.
  3. If it works on jack stands but not when on the ground, I would say it's most likely CV joints binding up. I would pull axles and CV joints to inspect them and rebuild/replace as needed. Not possbile to select reverse and forward gear at the same time (internal lockouts prevent this) and if it did, it would not move at all.
  4. Does it grind when trying to select reverse while the car is running with clutch pedal pushed in? Does the car also feel like it wants to lurch forward in 1st gear with the clutch pedal pushed in? If so, your clutch either needs to be adjusted to open all the way when the clutch pedal is depressed, or there is a larger issue that may need attention if your clutch is properly adjusted. Check you clutch adjustment by parking the car, putting the transmission in gear (any gear is fine, but 4th is best), jack on rear tire off the ground, then have someone turn the tire while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. The tire should spin somewhat freely if the clutch is fully open when the clutch pedal is pushed all the way in. If there is any resistance on the tire with the clutch pedal pushed in, then you will need to either adjust the slave cylinder to allow for better throw, or bleed the system to get any air out of the line and recheck to make sure the clutch is opening all the way with the pedal pushed in.
  5. Actually just got word that they are in process now. We will get a sample set to run a pattern on in a few weeks to make sure the tooling is correct. Once we confirm, hoping to have them in about 6 weeks after that. "Hoping" being the key word. Be lucky to have them in time at the end of summer.
  6. This is probably the most insightful comment that has ever been posted on any thread.
  7. These are virtually obsolete now-a-days. Parts are increasingly hard to find for them, cases being the main item that are disappearing very quickly. Cores are virtually all junk and not really worth buying anymore.
  8. The 091 transaxle (or 6-rib as it's commonly known) was manufactured from 1976-1983.5 in total. The 1983.5 and later units are known as the 094 transaxle, where the shifter exits the passing side of the main case, these have the large reverse gear. You will typically see the 1976-1979 version as it has the shift shaft pointed directly out the front of the trans, which makes setting up the shift shaft very easy as it's a straight shot from the shift back. The 1980-1983.5 trans is the exact same internally as the '76-'79 units, with the only exception of the shift shaft exiting the passenger side of the nosecone. These are less common as setting up a shift linkage is quite a bit more difficult. You can however use one of these year transaxles, have it completely torn down and convert the front of the trans to use the previous years "forward shift shaft" nosecone for less than $1000 in parts.
  9. Can't say much about just from the exterior other than what type of transaxle it is. (Early 002 bus gearbox). You can never trust what is inside, especially if it came out of a sand car. Chances are high that it has been into at some point in it's life and has some mix of parts in it. Best bet is to take it to a builder to have it torn apart and see whats what inside. If you don't plan on pumping a bunch of power through the EJ20 or running like a racecar, you can probably spend some money on it with our gears and make it live if driving with some regard.
  10. While I am one of those people myself that prefers to take a hands on approach to these types of things, I have learned (specifically while working here at Weddle) that there are certain jobs left to the pro's. I will not discourage anyone from tackling any type of job on their own, as long as they are starting with the knowledge that it will certainly take far more time and usually cost much more money compared to just taking it to a specialty shop to begin with. This type of job will almost never save you any money or time, and almost always becomes far more of a headache than you think. I can't tell you how many conversations I have had over the years that mirror this exact thread where the customer has taken on the job themselves and either spend weeks or months on the phone with me while we rebuild their transmission over the phone. More often then not, something was not done right and the transmission does not work properly, then they need to pull it again and either try to fix it, or take it to a shop and have it gone through professionally. Or worse, something breaks and causes a lot of damage. All of this HAS happened. Regarding a jig, you will NEED a specific Mendeola shift jig. You cannot use a VW Type 1/Type 2 jig without modifying the bores to accept the larger MD pinion bearing carrier. The jig itself is based on the Type 1, but requires the larger bores. The jig is used to properly adjust the mainshaft shims and shift forks. You cannot properly adjust these without the jig, and there is no way to mark them where they were, that is assuming they were properly adjusted in the first place, or did not slip on the rail during use. Forks are adjusted thousandths at a time to get them right, it's very much a "feel" type of adjustment. Best of luck to you on tackling the job, I am happy to sell you any of the parts you need. Keep in mind that I do not have any Mendeola shift jigs, you can use an old worn out/broken case with the sides cut out to adjust the forks, or modify a Type 1 jig.
  11. If the noise is getting louder with use, and only in that gear, then the gear is most likely wearing out (pitting). I would advise getting it out and to a shop sooner rather than later before the gear breaks and costs much more money.
  12. I need to start offering dyno services, I'd make a fortune off you guys.
  13. S4 and S5 both have the same weak link being the R&P at around 650 HP at the crank. 5-speed is good for the longer duners diner runs and keeping the 1st-4th tight for the dunes. 4-speed does have wider/stronger gears if you don't need the extra 5th gear. S5D I usually only rate up to about 750-800 at the crank. We have customers pushing over 1000 on the new S4D and they are holding up pretty well so far.
  14. I skimmed over this, but did not fully read every post in depth. My professional answer: There is no real way to measure this number without spending 100's of thousands of dollars to simply have numbers that are always going to be variable based on too many other variables. We are dealing with extremely specific vehicles that will always have some sort of difference from one to the other, compared to a production vehicle that can be homologated across a far broader range of numbers and narrower range of variables in design. Simple answer, the larger the gearbox, the more power it takes to turn it over. My personal opinion: Who cares what that number is if the amount of power you want to put to the ground requires the larger gearbox to do so reliably? If you want to put the most power to the ground, use the smallest gearbox available and be ready to open your checkbook every time you drive it. Dyno sheets are simply a d*ck measuring contest in my opinion. A dyno session should only really focus on making proper adjustments to the tune for the engine to either be reliable or make the most amount of power possible. The depth of your pockets will typically determine what side of that scale you want to pay for.
  15. The PBS shifter itself attaches the cable below the pivot, which is where you are getting the wrong direction on your throws now. You can install a new shifter with the cable attachment above the pivot, this will fix your issue if you are willing to fab in the new shifter, cable should still be the same.

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