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    2D to S4 - Need Advice Please

    Please don't! 😂

    2D to S4 - Need Advice Please

    Correct. Correct. The only factor that would compare strength would be what ratio. A 4.86 2D and a 4.86 S4/5 are the exact same gear, just different pinion shaft. The only thing that one might call me out on is that an S4/5 has a 4.57 option, which is stronger than a 4.86, where as a 2D does not offer a 4.57 ratio, only 4.86 and lower. The taller the ratio, the stronger the gear is.

    2D to S4 - Need Advice Please

    Clearing this up, they are the same ring and pinion's for all of the 10" transaxles (2D, HV-1, HV-2, S4/5). They simply have different shafts cut onto them for each trans design. This is our fault, it took us a bit longer to make the changes to the drawings that we needed to on this batch of housings (nothing major, just some fine tuning for easier assembly). Should be getting a 1st article from the machinist today for inspection (actually the 2nd first article to inspect the required changes on the 1st). Should have it measured up by the end of the day tomorrow and confirm the machinist to start cranking out the rest. Hoping for late April, early May on these. Sorry guys, this one is on us.

    Question for the sequential guys

    Hopefully you have some type of cold, refreshing beverage on board. Pop one open and sit for awhile to contemplate the mistake that has got you in this situation. Avoid getting mad at anyone but yourself as they will then typically refuse to help you any further and they might then start relieving you of your limited supply of cold, refreshing beverages on board. Once you have fully thought of all of the ways you could have avoided the situation you are currently in, the next best action is to laugh it off, avoid laughing hysterically as it might scare those that are stuck with you and they may run off, again, losing any help you might have had. Then start pushing. You might be able to get the wheels to move enough to downshift. One of these days I am going to start charging for my advise. It's clearly top notch. 😒

    2d running HOT

    A 200ºF trans will stay warm for about 30 mins or so. True that it will generate a bit more heat for the first few drives. Good to put some easy drives on it to get it up to temp, then let cool for 45 mins or so and run it up to temp again for about 4-5 cycles.

    Ball Bearing Billet shifter for PBS and S4 S4D

    I'll chime in since Jason approached me about this over the weekend. Should the shifter have a return spring? Yes and No is the official answer. Yes. Most earlier Mendeola and all of the PBS sequential transaxles use a small spring inside the trans to return the ratchet mechanism to center after a shift. This spring is quite weak and usually not tuned well to operate properly and will cause the "ghost" shift (pulling or pushing the shift lever but no gear change in the trans). Also, cables have inherent drag, especially when they have to make loops and bends, this causes even more troubles with the transaxle not shifting properly. The return spring in the shifter helps overcome this drag and can help the trans properly return to center for the next shift. But, if the spring in the shifter and spring in the trans are not properly synced, they will work against each other and cause ghost shifts. The bolt attaching the rod end to the small shift lever outside the trans needs to simply slide right through the eyelet. Any resistance on this bolt will be pulling the springs against each other and not allowing the mechanism inside the trans to reset after each shift. No. The new Weddle shift mechanism in what can now be called the Weddle sequential has a stronger return spring built into the transaxle. If the cable has minimal drag and no major bends, that spring should be plenty strong enough to return itself after every shift, this is true with the Albins transaxle as well. It's not a bad thing to have a shifter with a return spring though, as long as the rod ends on the cable are adjusted in a way so the bolt slips right through the eyelets with no resistance.

    2D leaking oil from front of tranny

    Fill that hole with a little silicone, done.

    School me on Fortin Transaxles please

    We can make it a 2-1/2 speed.

    School me on Fortin Transaxles please

    I was trying to stay out of this conversation for the obvious conflict of interest reasons, but I would like to step in an clear up some of the misinformation that is being posted about our products. This does actually affect the conversations I have with people who do read these forums. Please understand that I am not trying to argue with anyone here, simply clearing up some mis-information that has been posted. For the post above, 100 pounds heavier is simply not true. We have weighed all of these units without oil on our calibrated pallet jack, I would say it's accurate to about 5 pounds, so not the most accurate, but within reason. Actual weights posted below: Albins AGB Sequential 5-speed: 215 lbs Weddle S4D (now officially rebranded): 200 lbs Weddle S5D: 210 lbs Weddle S4: 180 lbs Weddle S5: 190 lbs Again, most larger scales are not going to be super accurate, so don't take these numbers as written law. Putting percentage numbers to strength on these units is very difficult, if not impossible without spending hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of detailed strength analysis that we are simply not going to pay for at this time. We have a good baseline on what these units can handle based in history and logic. Every single conversation that I have with any customer asking what trans is best for them starts with 3 questions: What type of vehicle? What engine and how much power? And how do you intend to use/drive the vehicle? Answers to these give me the baseline of information that I need to know what trans is best for you and your application. The Weddle S5 trans that can handle upwards of 700 HP on average in a sand car will only handle a 200 HP 4 cylinder Ecotec in a Class 10 desert race buggy and needs to be serviced every 800-1000 miles. We have made some pretty major improvements to the entire Weddle (formerly Mendeola) sequential transaxles that make them much stronger than when we acquired the program. There are many things about these that I would actually put up against an Albins in strength comparisons, but overall they lack some original design details that hold them back. The S4D/S5D are pretty close to an Albins for external dimensions. Same size R&P and approximately the same length, they are both about 35" end to end depending on bell housings. True, the original design of the S4D/S5D case was a weak link, but our revised design and materials have proven to bring them much closer in strength to the Albins. There are other factors that go into why the S4D/S5D is not quite as good as the Albins on a direct comparison. Fact about Albins gears and Weddle gears is that they are actually the same. They use the same material, heat treat, and final finish on Weddle gears as they do their own gears. The S4/S5 gears were originally made to accept the removable face plates that floated on the gears. These faceplates were the weak link and would break under heavy loads. We changed the design about 10 years ago that machined the dogs directly onto the gear (Or welded the faceplate to the gear for the taller ratio's that would not allow this) to remove that weak link. Albins also integrates their dogs onto the gear the same we do for the S4/S5 gears. None of the newest Weddle sequential trans gears nor Albins sequential gears have removable dogs on the gear itself. The slider is the selector piece that can be changed out when the dogs are worn.

    Trans swap

    No. The centerline of the input shaft to the pinion shaft/CV flange is wider in the PBS/Mendeola (Now calling them a Weddle) sequential. The 2D uses VW based shaft centers (approximately 64 mm) and the sequentials use Porsche later model shaft centers, which are 85mm. This increases the distance from the center line of the crank/input shaft to the centerline of the pinion shaft/CV flanges about 3/4". Almost Correct. Same motor mounts/trans mounts = about 3/4" lower CV flange location from 2D to PBS. The Subaru bell housing throws many other specific factors into your application that don't really apply to someone keeping the VW adapter plate. Trans mounts and engine location all become quite a bit different. This is correct. If swapping transaxles, be prepared to cut out the trans mounts and start over to place the trans in the best location pertaining to the CV flange location. Correct. This means if you leave the crank/input shaft location in the same location in the car, the CV flanges will then be placed about 3/4" lower in the chassis. If you want to keep the CV flanges in the same location as where they sat with the 2D, you will need to relocate the engine approximately 3/4" higher in the chassis. This is the recommended way to retain your existing suspension design and keep the bottom of the trans above the lower rails of the chassis to prevent it from dragging on the ground. Something will need to move for either trans swap, that is guaranteed. Either keep the engine in the same location and lower the CV flanges. Or keep the CV flanges and raise the engine. Those are the 2 options. In review, be prepared to move either the engine or the CV flanges when swapping from a 2D trans. There is no way around this to do it properly. If you are swapping in the PBS, you can use the same chassis cross members/mounts as the 2D. But, you will lower the CV flanges in the chassis as well as have a bit of trans case hanging lower than the 2D, think about bottoming the trans case when suspension in compressed. If swapping the Mendeola (Now calling it a Weddle sequential) sequential, it would raise the engine approximately 3/4" but would keep the CV flanges in the same location as the 2D, as well as the bottom of the case.

    School me on Fortin Transaxles please

    Well, I will say... Ah never mind. ?

    Tips on how to remove Mendiola 2d fom north star 4.6

    Use a bigger hammer. Clutch splines are probably holding you up. Might have to get aggressive with it.

    LS1 2D Pilot Bearing

    Glad to see our website is actually working to help answer some questions. For future reference, we have all common type of engine/transaxle clutch assembly combinations listed on our website with details for what specific parts are needed for each application. All of these clutch kits will start with a "CLK" part number that you can simply type into the search bar and browse through the list until you find your application.

    S4 throwout? Engine won't go in!!!

    The throw out bearing and guide tube should have nothing to do with this situation. The guide tube is small enough to fit through the fingers of the pressure plate. If the discs were interfering with the guide tube and preventing the engine from mating to the trans, this would mean they were installed incorrectly. Glad you got it sorted out.

    S4 Rant

    The bummer about this entire thread is that this is exactly the battle that we are trying to win against the campfire mechanics and word of mouth type of marketing that prevails in this industry/hobby/sport. We knew that taking on this entire program was going to be a lot of work, and we knew that we were going to have to invest a lot of money into it to fix all of the inherent issues that caused so many people to have problems with these units that left a forever bad taste in their mouth. I think we are finally starting to make some headway into changing people's minds about these things. We have gotten a lot of really good, positive feedback from customers about the changes that we have made. Many of those changes you will never notice, but are simply there to prevent a failure, and that to us is the key selling point to the work we put into them. Unfortunately, there were so many inherent design flaws with these sequential transaxles through each generation of changes that in many cases, it does cost what some might consider to be an arm and leg to upgrade these things with our new parts and make them right. I have seen customers try to nickel and dime their way with these upgraded parts, trying to make old and new parts work together, and that typically never tends to work out. We have literally made changes to every single part drawing to fix each flaw that has been an issue through the years. These sequential transaxles are certainly not a "perfect" unit, which is why we still push the Albins for those who want or need the best transaxle. We refrained from changing the name from Mendeola to Weddle for the past years because we were still uncertain on whether the changes we made to these were going to make the grade in the court of public opinion. We have now made the decision to start rebranding these units to use the Weddle name as new parts get made, next Sand Show (2019) you will probably see the Weddle name in the castings and in our marketing materials. In closing, the biggest variable that determines how any of these transaxles hold up is who's foot is on the gas pedal. Anything can break, these vehicles are toys and they are driven as such. They are not driven with the mindset that this thing has to be able to get the kids to school or make it to work the next day. If you drove your daily they way you drive these toys on a daily basis, I guarantee you that vehicle will be at the dealership/shop on a very regular basis. Horsepower costs money. It costs more money to get that power to the ground reliably. There is a reason why race cars cost more money to run than they make. If you want to drive it like a race car, then you have to expect a race car level of prep cost.

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