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journeyman

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About journeyman

  • Rank
    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 10/09/1961

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Moscow

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    13.5
  • Your Ride
    Sand Rails, Raptor, 250R,

Recent Profile Visitors

605 profile views
  1. Mfg's deal with a lot of things, pressures, etc. Government agencies, tax issues, licensing requirements... They arrive at a gvwr to satisfy all those things. In this thread you are looking at the technical. In my view this is THE most important. What the axles/tires will handle, what the frame will handle and what the hitch will handle come into play here. REMEMBER: the gvwr is the recommended maximum weight of the manufacturer. This is what the mfg recommends considering all the hoops they have to jump through in order to manufacture trailers. Safe hauling load rating may be quite different than the manufacturer's recommendation. Remember that as an end user, you have to use these factors (mfg's gross weight ratings, axle weight ratings, frame strength, tongue rating, etc.) to determine what is best for your use.
  2. Just curious. How often do you sample your oil? Do you send it in for analysis each time?
  3. What about using a hole saw in the plate to get a socket on the plug? I am big on simplicity. I am still trying to learn not to complicate things (but I still do it... But maybe less?) Fewer parts = better in most cases.
  4. As we always taught our toddlers: "The job's not done until the paperwork is finished"
  5. Yes, the low-carbon stainless is almost non-magnetic. 303, 304, etc. will have VERY low magnetic attraction. The "stronger" grades of SST, 416,430, etc. will have a higher content of carbon, so they will be more "magnetic" Wow, these look like big tanks!
  6. I actually bought a Summit brand pump with better numbers, but then I finally read the fine print: NOT ETHANOL COMPLIANT. Bummer. I know that all pump gas contains some ethanol, and that will deteriorate lines and components over time. I re-ordered the 044. It is the RIGHT pump. Thanks for your input. Also, I am going with PTFE Fuel lines. They are supposed to be impervious to alcohol
  7. Aluminum tubular body with slip on (clamped) inlet and threaded output.
  8. My fuel pump bound up (possibly the lines deteriorated with the added ethanol in our gasoline?) and stopped working. I have the Bosch 0 580 254 957 pump currently. Engine is a 4.6 Northstar with cams (unsure which ones, but it is lopey at idle) Any recommendations? For me, this is one of those 'good news/ bad news' situations. Good news is that I am doing this here in the barn, bad news is that I am working on other fix-up projects and this was totally unexpected and UN-budgeted. Trying not to break the tiny bank, but still ant something reliable.
  9. Where will the cook top go?
  10. I called Whittier. Talked to Jack. He is super helpful and a great guy. He recommended A shop he works with here locally (Fresno) that did a rebuild for a lot more money than factory, but they did it with same day service. I am impressed.
  11. I need to replace the rear bearing in my Hi Torque Starter. Anyone ever done that? Any bearing numbers (mine is so wiped out, I can't see the numbers)? Thanks in advance
  12. This is quite an informative article. It separates out the transmission, the differential and also the CV's. Since our use of CV's is quite a bit different than a road vehicle (angles, etc), we should look first at the transmission and differential. Then numbers given estimate out to about 88% getting through the transmission and differential (.941 x .931 ≈ 88%, meaning about a 12% loss BEFORE you get to the CV's). That would mean that the loss in the transaxle of a 300 H.P. sand rail should be expected to be in the 37 HP range, or just under 28Kw of heat. That is still a lot of heat, but remember that is only being generated at maximum power.

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