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journeyman

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About journeyman

  • Rank
    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 10/09/1961

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Moscow

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    13.5
  • Your Ride
    Sand Rails, Raptor, 250R,

Recent Profile Visitors

427 profile views
  1. 2turbo, I am trying to figure out what you mean. I am working through motor mounting ideas right now but cannot picture what you are describing. Any pics? diagrams?
  2. UPDATE: I pulled the oil filter housing off: and found two ports in the block that were .706" Interestingly, the bore spec for tapping 1/2" NPT threads is .710. Huh. Four thousandths is close enough. I got a tap (Thanks, Scott of MCM!) and it was quick and easy. No special adapter housing needed. Clean and simple. Now to build my new motor mounts...
  3. I have one on my car (Mid Engine with 2D) I would like to convert to conventional H pattern. Maybe we could work something out? Bernie (559) 274-3047
  4. I like having my tires clean and dry inside. No additives.
  5. I have run them for years. No issues. as Punkur said, the threaded stems are the best. IMPORTANT: make sure your valve stem holes in the rims are smooth. no sharp edges. I have also run 11-15 tubes in paddles. One car has been sitting for years in storage and still holds air after all that time. Often at the start of the first trip f the year we will check pressures and they are exactly the same as when we put them away last season
  6. I need to relocate my oil filter on the 4.6 liter Northstar. I checked with CHRfab (I didn't even now they moved to IL!), search this forum... I saw a generic one on Jeggs that fits a ton of engines, but that does not inspire confidence. Any suggestions?
  7. This hilarious! C'mon... it really is not about mothers at all... YET. However, just wait 10 - 20 years. What is absurdly ridiculous today could easily become popular opinion in 5 - 10 years, achieving legal status in 15 - 20. Our society is being steered by hands you cannot see, in ways you cannot know.
  8. I see a bidding war coming...
  9. Now, I know there are "cruelty to animals" ordinances on the books... But geeez... There aught to be a law... cruelty to...
  10. That is actually quite a bit of juice. 7.2 amps x 120 v = over 860 watts in very rough numbers, that is over 70 amps at 12V + inefficiency of the inverter, so it easily could be over 80 amps of draw on your DC system. Big question: how much does it run? If it is high efficiency and the doors aren't open (like at night while you are sleeping), it really shouldn't be running very much (starting the compressor)
  11. 44, I would be very curious to know the actual watts (or AMPS) your 25cf draws.
  12. I have never really thought of a fan INSIDE the fridge, but this makes a lot of sense. Kind of a convection fan. If it is low enough speed (blows very little volume), it should not consume much energy. I suppose they can be wired with the door switch so that when the door is open, the fan(s) are off. On the heat extraction fans, I would really like to have a simple temperature switch so that when the temp near the coils reaches 130* F. or so, the fans turn on. That way there are no additional user controlled switches.
  13. I do not have fans. As far as efficiency goes, that would probably be an easy, low energy efficiency boost. Is there a 'fan kit' for these, or just buy a couple little fans and hook them up?
  14. Site says on AC at 120 V: So in rough numbers that would be approximately 120 watts or about 10 amps @ 12 V or 5 amps @ 24V If it drew anything even close to 20A ( his fuse rating) at the user's 24V system, that would be a LOT of power! I am a proponent of the compressor system because cooling by heating the fluid with a flame seems inherently inefficient to me. I know that the fluid will get hot when compressed, but that should be a lot less heat than compressing it by heating. That said.... My fridge is working as of now. I won't touch it until it starts misbehaving. Oh, another thing. Just got this email:

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