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JGSturbo

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JGSturbo last won the day on May 20 2018

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About JGSturbo

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  1. You can use Holley standalone but it takes an extra harness. I have an HP ecu and dash, they work together well, quite a few ecu functions from the dash. If I had an Mefi4 an AEMCD7 seems like a better deal. I don't like how Holley nickle and dimes (more like $75-100) every little plug/harness/etc. Thankfully its all metri-pack and people sell connectors. I like the holleyEFI as a complete system, was a good deal that way.
  2. So far what I see for rear weights isn't much different than other V8 rails, its really competitive. 6-9k sounds like a decent answer. Your getting arms, spindles- front and rear with my design. Traditional design, can do that too. Infact I might enjoy the challenge and being able to compare my design to traditional. 8ft Faro, show up with a bunch of parts and I have no problem building around them. Customers can touch/feel a complete to scale 3d solid model before any cut. Nothing better than hanging out, designing go-fast stuff. CAD is like a muscle, one needs daily exercise. Design is the true part to first shot builds.
  3. There's another question, whats an average LS rail weight on the rear tires?
  4. Hard to say, whats a typical Twin turbo LS car weight on the rear? I have some extra weight in the rear (rear A-arms, large swaybar, loads of extra steel) and its about 2K on the rear. I've seen other V8 cars weight similar... Gonna say the twin turbo system weights 175-200lbs of related stuff, 23lbs for the solid steel sway bar, etc. Also a 0.120wall chassis. As for extra power loss, IDK... 10-20HP more ? We'd need apples to apples. Back in the day a 5.3L rail layed down 300WHP on my dyno with an E-box, Last Handful dyno was 310whp @ < 5psi. I have bigger CVs and axles tho.
  5. I might have to try the whole radius roof thing. I wonder I my cnc can make a believeable bump bend radius. I skipped the QC diff because your right- expensive. Not sure they are any stronger than the Ol 8.8 Ford. I fabbed mine but there are 930 flanges that fit an 8.8IRS. I'd like to scan a short glide to see if it could save anywhere. The ol C4 is a good little trans, you can get LS bell housings etc. , between a converter, bellhousing, misc. I think around 2500. So trans 2500, V-drive $1k , Diff/driveshaft/misc 1k (?) - 4500 bucks So its not much cheaper but its easier to find deals on and easier for self service (no complex trans axles). The automatic saves a bunch of shock load as well.
  6. Right now all the bolts are 5/8... if warranted 3/4 to 7/8 is an option. Most high pivot heim spindles seemed luck to have 1/2" cross bolts. IMHO that vertical bolt has a lot lower load with the top and bottom fork joined in one assembly. You have a ton more contact area for steering and suspension motion vs any Heim that has decent pivot. ANd then there is all the unsupported shear area AKA the misalingment spacers... There's sunnyways to look it If I had to build a multi-directional pivot spindle it would be vertical Johnny type joints, I like the idea of adjustable nylon liners, beeef cake as well. Hard to compare any none-fixed alingment (user sets the preload, no solid sleeve between the bearings) to an angular contract fixed bearing. So far I've had no troubles but I do use SOLID 300M snouts and tons of weld area. The Handful might test them better but the Angry toaster has had a bunch of thrashing, aired out constantly, etc. The new owner is a LEAD foot. Not seen any broken parts lately.
  7. Non comp cut tires, #1 measured 0.950 #2 measures 1.200.
  8. I'd like to say 1s are ~1in, 2s are 1-1/4. I have both tires in the shop on cars. .. I'll check later.
  9. IDK, I've always sold my self on being different... kind of a habit. I have designs for a 2D car, if somebody came to me and wanted a 2D I'd build it. But I'm not going to be much help when they break their box And really thats what this is about, being approached to do a custom build. Problem lies in the SALE part really... I have 30 people under my roof, product liability , etc. I need to figure out how to do this without risking everything I'm associated with. I can build for another shop, as long as they are applying final welding its good/doing the end sale IMHO. Not that I don't have 200% faith in the design, frivolous litigation is real. Your buying an offroad death machine, one jump too fast/too high/nose down and its a yard sale plus injurys in anybodies chassis. What do you stand on? I guess its other peoples practices, mainly standard shelf spindle designs. The drivetrain is more flexible and plenty of cases of similar setups. If anything automatics can be seen as some what safer, less driver skill / demand. So far I've stuck with selling my used cars, "used" lessens the litigation burden... slightly.
  10. Let's get this out of the way, no way are my spindles any kind of lighter weight or trying to skimp any life / death features. The whole goal is to divide the steering from the arm travel. They have more in common with TTBs than traditional spindles. I'm putting my faith in way more steel and more/bigger fasterners than traditional spindles. The failure point has way more material than most pivot heims. But the big advantage is the significant amount of nylon vs hardened bearing surfaces. Nylon will take a beating that hardened steel never will. That small amount of give and rebound takes the edge off those load spikes. Really decent amounts of steel still hold the assembly together (when the nylon gets loose). The steering linkage is just as robust as similar spindles. Have I see various versions fail? If you call bending a bit failure then yes (bending is better than shearing). But as with any design the next one was 100% better. People rush to make a "game changer" but when things go bad its because they didn't test, test, test and test some more. My current version is about as good as its getting. beyond this its scaling up the thicknesses and quality of materials. The people that have bought my old cars have definitely not been kind, they showed me a bunch of weak points And I upgraded them like any decent person would. No such thing as a bomb proof anything in the offroad world. Full lawn dart, 100+mph roll over, etc. everything is junk. But for trip to trip I'm willing to put these against any traditional spindles of the same materials etc. And just for REF, I'm certainly NOT disagreeing with the marketing aspects of using traditional parts... I know its an uphill fight.
  11. No, the drive would add more. Yes tabbed out with spindles. The drive's worth 1-1.5k (similar to an SCS drop box).
  12. There was a first run on youtube but its more of a dialing in suspension run... other 4 cars were ran mercilessly for 8 years now. I'm seeing 6500-7000... dunno if thats not a loser, guess only this new machine will show whether its worth the squeeze.
  13. I've been busy trying to knock that labor part down, blowing out finished tubes you can stack like lumber. We are talking tubes with couped 3-4 bends in < 5min. I'd love my peoples down time to goto using what we build
  14. Im sorry for coming off a little half cocked. I was more attempting to explain my situation... "its complicated" might be an understatement. I'm here for the feed back. Customer gets what customer wants for sure, no argument there. I've had zero failures so for my builds Funco has air bags, I have kingpin spindles... Till one actual snaps its hard for me to bail on it. Really its a case of me wanting to indulge my habit and build MORE. Not happy unless there is a build on the table.
  15. Hey thanks for posting! some very helpful info there, this site IS the industry so being my FUN hobby I welcome feedback. When I say "This whole thread would only pertain to people that have seen my cars and like what they see." I meant I'm not making an effort to "sell" people rollers, more that I get the question every so often and I don't have an answer. I know alot of what I put in my cars isn't what sells or what people are shopping for. Would I build a car with traditional components if risk was worth the reward? Hell Ya. For the $ I feel like my builds are doing good. I get 20+inches of real travel in a small easy transport package. I've been progressing 1 design for a while now with different engine packages/drivetrains. Lack of cash for a transaxle drives the need for the road less traveled. In the end, I really want to hear some values on custom builds, I've got a pretty good idea of build costs and time. If the established names are below my time and materials I'll quit worrying about it and send people the traditional route. I was hoping @Hondo would chime in I see some nice builds coming out of his garage.

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