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JGSturbo

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JGSturbo last won the day on May 20 2018

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About JGSturbo

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    Dune Master

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  • Campsite
    lakeside
  • Your Ride
    Changes bi yearly

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  1. VID_139110327_043039_621.mp4
  2. Thanks! That really helps. I'm cooking up the final version of my CNC cutting/bending machine but I'll be back to buggy drawing soon... getting some good ideas is step one. That program looks familiar 😄
  3. I've built most of my cars with a backbone console. Most have had forward B-pillars as well. Only time when I passed on forward Bs was when it closed off the opening making it a PIA to get in. I would do Internal Slug type latch, sprung loaded normally closed.
  4. Seems like one still needs to construct the chassis as normal (solid mid rail) then add the door frames and structure later. Frame it all inc. hinges then cut the mid rail and boom a door. Hmmm :gearsturning:...
  5. Gearing up to build another 4 seat chassis, who's got some pictures of old man doors? I'd be ok with half doors (saving a little of structure). Also a trussed back bone (center console) will be installed.
  6. Do threads still works? I've seen threaded bodies ceracoated and they still turn.
  7. If its already tuned for no manifold ref. just leave it at that. Make sure pressures match. The fuel pump HAS to have a relief regulator... if its totally returnless the pump must have an internal relief in the tank. Or does the return come off that dampener?
  8. A smooth pavement run thru all the gears then cooling it down for 20min while you trash talk the loser is drag life. No whoops that send huge load spikes to the bottom end, no long on that throttle hill climbs (8-9sec vs. a bunch more). Also for high mile per hour runs you have huge air flowing around that motor and cooling system vs. in the butt of a rail with isolating sand everywhere. Sand. eats. motors.
  9. Way different levels of abuse...
  10. Love this picture!But I guess I'm biased... I think crank case pressure can absolutely cause oil drain issues. Turbos are like a crank case with no seal, only slingers and gas rings. Oil doesn't flow directly out its gonna walk right out the exhaust seal. Looks like you got it covered.
  11. This ^^^ Compression test and leak down. Last time this happened to me I butted ring gaps and it was a chunk of piston that flatten the plug. compression was fine, leak down not so much.
  12. That said, I'm no fan of credit card warriors, when their crap breaks might as well light it on fire.
  13. When I first posted here in the middle of building my first car I was told just because I have tools doesn't mean I should... 4 cars later still building. Now don't get me wrong that first car wasn't pretty... learned a lot. I listened to what was relevant (triangulation, dead tubes, etc. ) but some of bullcrap I had to ignore. Funny thing is I had a ton of fun with that first car. Not driving them like a-holes is the first step to coming back alive.
  14. An easy way to ditch the hose is tubing cutter cut off the bubble for the hose barb then get a 2 peice compression fitting (should be 8mm and 5/16 should work) that will get you to NPT then you can add AN fittings / hoses/etc. OEM regulators are great, I'm had tons of leaky big name regulators. I will never use a mech. fuel pressure gauge on or near a motor. Fuel pressure is very buzzy (even with a liquid filled gauge) and when the tube inside cracks you'll have a huge leak and possible FIRE. Had a rail that was following burn up due to busted fuel pressure gauge.
  15. Anti-seize the splines... and bolts that go thru sleeves/heims/etc. saves threads every time.

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