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JGSturbo last won the day on May 20 2018

JGSturbo had the most liked content!

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About JGSturbo

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  1. IDK about the front door, might be a bit large.... Work in progress. Definitely trussing in the center console.
  2. I too know the Mustang Dyno Nut Kick... frankly every other dyne is so much higher nowadays its hard to sell based on its numbers... but when you have good numbers on it - things haul ass.
  3. Your poor 2in hollow, not like you can just grab some MEK to strip it real fast in CA. I hate striping powder, its tough and messy.
  4. If you can fully control valve opening events you can control effective compression.
  5. I'm about ready to try a switching to a standard HOT side t-stat... No stat, plug in place, triple pass 31x19x.2.250, triple fans in a shoud, no window, loads of air flow... Temp still runs away, not as bad since I fixed a bunch of tuning issues. I feel like its on the fans pretty damn fast for no T-stat. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/53260/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz8bsBRC6ARIsAEyNnvopH1sttTn7wZtnDD7yk4pKPr9BNqj9NyBW6v4D_txI1JUMebeJh2AaAs1bEALw_wcB Put a stat on the hot side to make sure the coolant cools and completely plug the crossover hole. Oil cooler is going in right now. Also debating fans on the intercooler.
  6. Its been a good car for 4 years, unchanged for the last 2 besides fluids and CVs. Comes with spares for all the custom parts (FNR and in-board CVs), I have all the designs and mfg. info to produce replacements if required. 100% 1020 USA DOM 1.5x0.120w chassis and suspension. Nice and wide inside, wide race trim seats. FNR real differential turning brakes cushion drive GM EPS rear anti-roll bar tabbed for bypasses in the back All driveshaft, no chains to cook. Turbo 02 GSXR1K with AEM water injection, AEM FIC, 720cc secondary injectors. 8psi currently more power could be added right now its ~200hp, thoroughly dyno and sand tuned. 80amp Alternator kit deals with the EPS no problem, no power shortage. EMF auto clutch, stop and go without clutching. Also works like a lockup clutch giving slip free performance. 23 in front, 20in rear travel. 33 blasters/8.50 fronts on beadlocks, geared for 90mph Chassis and arms are powdercoated, panels are vinyl wrapped. Build Thread Last Gopro in may 2019 https://youtu.be/QTypiFuhYyM 10K, lots of bang for your buck. Strong, stable, goes over the rough stuff really well, hits the G-outs effortlessly. ~11ft long, strapped up it shrinks to <90in wide, front end doesn't need strapped to drive between wheel wells. SXS with roid rage
  7. Some of us need to finance the next build I really like building! Every car has been different. So far I've yet t build a traditional transaxle car. Finally next car we are STAYING with the current drive train. I've built a decent sized business AROUND constructing tube chassis vehicles so I feel its a smart business expense to keep building new cars. But when you have a 7x7x20ft powdercoating operation (inc 300lb blasting setup), a fleet of CNC tube cutters/benders, Big plas table, 160ton x 12ft press brake, dual over head crane 60x40 shop, a Turbo Wastegate business, your own CNC machine shop w/ a 20x40 CNC mill just for small jobs and R/D, a 2 lift autoshop with an MD1100 Dyno plus an 8ft Faro 3D measuring arm... building is what you do. Holy cow I need tool horders ANON. Just now on the verge of car #5 I've finally getting my support fleet (toy hauler and box trailer, I have too much crap and no $ for a Moho and stacker) in line for a big dunes trip. Buggy pics for fun.
  8. IIRC toe is usually measured at the lip of the wheel.
  9. Funny I was just going to make a thread about this.... I've decided a huge fan cooled oil cooler is my next mod for the handful... Has to be worth something cooling wise? Running hard coolant temps start climbing and oil psi falls. I've got a triple pass 31in radiator, high mount (I think the intercooler chokes off some flow tho), no T-stat (1/4 restrictor between the hot and cold side under the T-stat location). And generally if I'm just cruising temps are okay but start really hot lapping it that coolant temp goes UP and UP till I have to give it a rest. I started observing the oil pressure getting really low when the rpm would dip hot. That tells me the oil is HOT and THIN. Some of it could have been tuning issues, just dumped the oil and it was fairly polluted (fuel).. not enough that it was super thin tho. Having a 3000lb Twin Turbo 5.3L automatic car is proving a bit trouble some.
  10. https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Oil-Changer-Volts/dp/B004UOU6L0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=boat+oil+change+pump&qid=1568986940&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVFRGTVJWSUUxSFNIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDc1MzMyQkM1NTMzQlJRWVNQJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMjk5NDBLMVEwN1ZCWDlGSDUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl If it can suck dirty oil out it can put clean back in....
  11. I wouldn't fret about 8psi and 91 oct. IF it was non-ethanol 91. A solid water/alcohol injection kit (I like AEM) would go a ways to getting it to run on pump. Also adds loads of cooling as well. Rings need turbo sized gaps and timing needs addressed, radically different than N/A. LSA thickness headgaskets aren't a bad idea either. I don't care if you have steel monotherm pistons SOMETHING will BLOW if you have detonation. Tuning tuning and more tuning. I'd consider switching to a Holley HP or similar EFI simply based on the fact that it will have better management options for a turbo engine IMHO. I really dig my Holley setup with the Holley dash, the options that will keep a boosted motor alive are endless.
  12. Here's the previous version....I built my last car with it, like stacking lumber. It's come a long ways since then. I'm working hard on the final designs for the production version. I'm hoping to have it easy as the Dragon to run and more controlled and more consistent then hand lined up bends. The biggest thing is I now have a hydraulic tube grabber for NO-SLIP operation. 68736382_478869619605049_6092933750371895696_n.mp4
  13. VID_139110327_043039_621.mp4
  14. Thanks! That really helps. I'm cooking up the final version of my CNC cutting/bending machine but I'll be back to buggy drawing soon... getting some good ideas is step one. That program looks familiar 😄
  15. I've built most of my cars with a backbone console. Most have had forward B-pillars as well. Only time when I passed on forward Bs was when it closed off the opening making it a PIA to get in. I would do Internal Slug type latch, sprung loaded normally closed.

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