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fullthrottleguy

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fullthrottleguy last won the day on May 5 2018

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About fullthrottleguy

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    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 11/01/1963

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    Torrance, CA

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    Gecko Road
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    Sand Car

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  1. fullthrottleguy

    What would be your "perfect" LS sand car motor?

    Your starting point is excellent already the LS Next is a very good platform - You did not say what heads you are running, but the ramp on an SC cam will be a bit steeper than on a Turbo so might require a spring change.. A small cam and spring change and bolt on the Supercharger and you will make incredible power. SC cams like a bit of overlap where turbos hate it - You can run a 110 or 112 LSA and that will get your TQ curve moved down a lot compared to the 114 or 116+4 or higher you probably have on the Turbo cam, and you can increase duration a bit and run an 8-10 degree split duration and still have great drivability. With the 427 I personal would go smaller on the SC to reduce the parastolic loss and make the engine super responsive. A 3.2 or 3.6 will get you 10Lbs on Pump and 16-18 on 110 or E85 and save that 40-50HP loss at low RPM the Whipple 4.0 or 4.5 takes to turn - thats all wasted HP and TQ - Bigger is definitely Not better when it comes the SC's Thats probably mistake number one - but its done in the sand so much because the Whipple 2.9 is well lets just say - not the best choice... so most people get talked out of it and into a big wasteful 4.0 I like the Kenne Bells because they generally take far less HP to turn Liter to liter (due to inlet efficiency and rotor Lobe dimensions) per Lb of Boost and they have the Liquid cooled gear set that lets you pump 1-2 Lbs more boost in before detonation - they made me a believer only after I tried it. Thats my 2 cents...FWIW
  2. fullthrottleguy

    What would be your "perfect" LS sand car motor?

    For me it depends on your driving style, expectations (dune or drag) and lots of factors. I am a fan of usable HP rather than nice Dyno HP in an RPM range I regularly don't use. For me Rule 1 – There is no replacement for displacement Rule 2 – I would rather be blown Rule 3 – You don't drive the Dyno LS engines are so reliable and robust that you can just about have it all with the right build and cost can be contained "pretty well" Here is the combo I did in the past that is still my goto (assuming I have cash and the car to handle it) RHS tall deck 502cu in, KB 4.7L Liquid cooled SC on E85 solid 1400RWHP and 1200ft TQ all day long. Pulls like a rocket from just above idle to 6000 with a nearly flat TQ curve. Never need to dump the clutch or rev it like you hate it... Way more power left there - but built like this, it will last forever - run on 91 and take away 280HP and 340Ft Lb TQ. Where most Dyno runs "start" at 4000 RPM because they are hiding the low end ramp (saying you never really are under 4000 in the dunes is nuts - a well designed blown engine can cruise at 2500 RPM and when you stomp it, its a rocketsled from there..), The power under the normal driving curve with this combo is amazing, start the Dyno run at 2000 RPM and see a flat curve through the redline (6000) - that is real bragging rights IMO. Its hard to beat the "two Stroke" feel of a Twin Turbo car in a limited RPM range, but the constant pull of a well built blown car has to be experienced. Little details in build make it a super reliable runner like the right cam thats easy on the valve train for reliability yet has enough power, its a fairly basic build since it never needs to spin past 6000RPM 9.5:1 comp, no exotic head port work needed. A combo like that runs forever, just change the oil. I put this one in a 1968 Camaro
  3. fullthrottleguy

    Green new deal

    It just crazy, I know many ex- bartenders that are far smarter than AOC - Mike Judge is probably looking at this and saying "Wow, Idiocracy is here" If you have not seen the movie, its worth the watch.... we are almost there https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0387808/
  4. fullthrottleguy

    Desert Dynamics Chassis buggy works tabed $2700 obo

    Thats a great start and very reasonable - GLWTS
  5. fullthrottleguy

    School me on Fortin Transaxles please

    Sean Always great to have you weigh in with facts, at least I appreciate it. Weddle has done a great job making the "Mendeola" designs far better, and I have experienced that first hand. Now if you could shorten the S4 by 4" or so.... that would be something great
  6. fullthrottleguy

    King 2.0 disassembly

    those are great videos- One thing I did rebuilding my first shocks was take Pics and number everything as I was taking it apart especially the valving. After a few sets it got to be second nature, but with distractions its better safe than sorry
  7. fullthrottleguy

    School me on Fortin Transaxles please

    For me the difference in the Albins vs the S4D is the "operation" shifting and driving both, IMO there is no comparison Albins for the win... Both are too heavy and too big for me. I like the Fortin because it seems to the pound for pound inch for inch winner in a smaller car. with the Fortin being ~ the same size as the 2D and being what seems to be measurably stronger, It still seems like the way to go. I do wonder how the Fortin is holding up in BLACKZILLA with 2800HP in front of it?
  8. fullthrottleguy

    I cant believe the flood of sandrail sales!

    New? You will be looking at 30-40K for the roller minimum on a new Name brand car and even a non name brand you will pay that for a Roller with accessories and PC. Add a CBM or other current LS package and 2D and you will be adding close to 20K on top. Lets face it 4 corner Shocks and Bypasses cost 4K alone, and Wheels and Tires are close to that too. We recently finished a Buddies car and it was close to 80K for a basic LS and an S4, the S4 is only 5K more than the 2D new.
  9. fullthrottleguy

    Grade 8 or Grade 5 bolts

    Thanks Rockwell - I always forget that is not obvious. Keep a non-nylock grade 8 nut around to use for this. and if possible clean the cut edge up with a small file before removing the nut to keep the sharp edges down before putting the bolt into service I always paint the end of the bolt as well with rustoleum or POR15 to prevent corrosion when done
  10. fullthrottleguy

    Grade 8 or Grade 5 bolts

    I think Rockwell and Romans and all sum it up very well, although I would add a couple points, Nylock nuts are your friend and still quite effective even if you use copper-based antiseize (preferred), but they should always be replaced after removed.In most cases, lock washers pound out in Off road use and fail compared to nylocks. Proper TQ and bolt stretch will keep everything tight, too much TQ will actually weaken bolts (I see that done a lot with 1/4 and 5/16 bolts). I prefer using 12pt DB (US made Darling Bolt company) wherever possible, they have a higher tensile strength than grade 8, but not as brittle as 911, and Allens Fasteners pricing on those is cheaper than hardware store grade 8's. When you cut bolts to ensure "shoulders" are in tabs rather than threads, try to use a Carborundum blade rather than a "saw" less heat and far cleaner IMO.
  11. fullthrottleguy

    MLK 2019 Pics Thread #2

    Awesome
  12. fullthrottleguy

    Sand car pre-purchase inspection.

    As if it has not been said enough... LRS is the man
  13. fullthrottleguy

    Tips On A New Tatum Build

    Congrats - For me it was the paint scheme.. not many options unless you want to really spend - but you have to live with it and if it looks like every other Tatum out there, well .... Oh and definitely if you can afford it go Albins. The Weddle's (Mendi's) work well, but Albins is in another category
  14. fullthrottleguy

    I cant believe the flood of sandrail sales!

    It is a great time to be a buyer, for sure. When I listed my car and there were only a couple cars up, since then their are a bunch of fair priced nice cars out there. I hope buyers take advantage of the selection and choose what fits, its an unusual circumstance at this time in the season.
  15. fullthrottleguy

    Ok, So things have changed.

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