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fullthrottleguy

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fullthrottleguy last won the day on May 5 2018

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About fullthrottleguy

  • Rank
    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 11/01/1963

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  • Location
    Torrance, CA

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Gecko Loop
  • Your Ride
    Any Sand Car that is Fast, light, and fun

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  1. You are very naive 😄 - this is 2020... unfortunately
  2. The paint is very impressive on that car
  3. Cast stock pistons, too tight a gap on a boosted car lifted the Ring Land off - pretty typical. Detonation will usually "round" the area from the burn, but yeah detonation is Violent. Another reason to keep valve train noise down with the right parts and Not to disable Knock sensors on ECU's that support them. Here is an example of slight detonation and a lifted Ring Land - the little puck marks on the piston are denotation - I forgot I had this laying around This is from a TT LS3 stroker I redid a couple years ago It was running over 20Lbs boost on c12 with methanol injection and the Methanol injector failed pump Luckily that Wiseco piston is tough, it lifted the lands on 4 pistons this was the worst I should mention this is why we run good pistons - car smoked and ran rough after this happened but did not even make noise or hurt the bore.
  4. Nice Job Jason! Can you post the Dyno Sheet, interested to see where the power and TQ were on the curve
  5. The problem with "universal" Turbo headers is twofold. 1. Most Chassis are different so you need to measure carefully both where the Turbo fits and and where the wastegate fits or you will be modifying them or more commonly reselling them here... many times they look like they fit, but they don't fit. 2. Different Turbo's have different flanges 3 common types T3 or To3B and T04 are most common with Sand Car Turbo sizes , this is also true with Wastegates there are 4 common flanges/ joints for them. You pretty much either need to start with the headers and buy components to fit or start with components and have the headers made for them I know CBM and Turnkey do have universal Turbo Headers for their style turbos and wastegates and I think in different header tube sizes
  6. LOL, gotta get me some of that...
  7. I cannot say I have used the PRW China stuff, I am told they are the same ProComp and Speedmaster who makes them for Summit - I would not doubt they have QC issues like all the Chinese stuff. But the Bronze bushing design is solid and they may wear if soft but you will definitely see gold in the oil they don't die like that or break rockers IMO the Pushrod will come out first and the you will "skid the Lifter" and cam and lifter usually go by-by - seen lots of that with wrong pre-load and broken valvetrain parts - thats the Achilles Heal of Hydraulic roller lifters..- If you are getting a few dyno pulls are death - are you pre-oiling the engines? I use good Assy lube and pre-oil to 30lbs pressure and make sure the pushrods are squirting - dry starts kill LS's. I would say you got watch what parts you use, and I still think Good Aluminum true roller rockers are a cheap investment.
  8. Next time I see you in Dumont I show you a couple - the bearing end up in 3 or 4 pieces. I guess if they stayed in tact they would be fine. Never saw any actually "fall out" they usually crack from the pressure and then get chewed up and break apart before they come out. When I pulled Rick10's 383 apart, I was planning on using the comp rockers, 7 of them had trunions that were a little more than 1/2 the diameter and every bearing was almost powdered. He had Double springs steel retainers and a 603 lift cam. It was so surprised to see that... It made me start looking because he never complained of the sound. As I took a few other cars apart I saw similar. I am back to using Aluminum rocker arms again
  9. fullthrottleguy

    WTB LS3 Block

    As JAlper says they are not only expensive but hard to find even now in LA and I have search often. 3rd party Aluminum blocks like RHS are up as well. I know a few Chinese cylinder head makers are bringing some to market later this year under $1,500. My machine shop showed me a sample he had - he won't touch them, no idea of the quality yet.
  10. Its a surface area issue - not enough and the tubes twisting will crack again
  11. There is Nothing proven wrong with Bushings - look elsewhere ....every street performance car has moved to them a coupe years ago, there are thousands of cars running them as daily drivers with built engines (beehive springs and cams under .600) - I would look at the things I outlined above before guessing that somehow a bushing caused a failure. I am not saying they are all created equal, some parts from China are just Junk, but quality bushed rockers work well FWIW
  12. Looking at what you have there I cannot see how the bushed trunion can cause the rocker to fail. Its far more likely the heavier springs are to blame. stocker rockers work well but are just cast, higher pressure kills them. They are not recommend and known to fail with cams over .600 and/or with springs over 340lbs, especially if the rocker have some miles on them before the upgrade. The trunion upgrades actually add no benefit to stock rockers except to prevent the bearings from going through the engine when they fail. That was the promise of the capture roller Comp trunion upgrade. Unfortunately they fail more often than stock trunions (google it) What yours did is 100% typical of higher spring pressure failure. You can also see that type of failure if you did not get Pushrod length correct - you should have .040 preload on the rockers at 22ft lbs torque, if you have say .100 you will bottom the pushrod and crack the rocker and maybe smack a piston and bend a valve - thats pretty common with heads that have been milled during a rebuild and pushrod length not checked FWIW I have a few Comp Cam roller trunion rockers here from a couple different engines that have failed - Compared to bushed, the difference is when the Comp style trunions fails the bearings go through the engine and its rebuild time. I never run a .600 plus cam or double springs with stock rockers especially if you turn the engine over 6200 RPM, its just too risky. A n aluminum omp or Harlan sharp true roller at $450 is bargain compared to parts going through your engine. the Chinese aluminum true rollers like speedmaster are also risky, they crack, I have a couple here too (from SBCs). If you turn your engine past 7,000 or have a big cam, Jesel shaft rockers are cheap insurance
  13. I agree- but the people are voting them in ... FREE STUFF seems to always win against FREEDOM at last until you realize what you gave up.....
  14. I have a CrossFire with the water table, It was stupid cheap and works great SW is free and thats what it is worth, but it is not difficult. 99% of the brackets and tabs I used to buy I can make now and the Forum had templates for just tab you could want supplied by forum members for no cost. I don't use it alot, A buddy in NV has one for his fab shop and uses it like crazy and its always accurate, He is adding the PRO just because its a nicer unit that will likely hold up better over time the way he uses it and the torch height can be helpful. I use a Hypertherm Plasma and really feel a better plasma makes the difference in cuts, The only downsize of having a table is that you will go through consumables faster - I always used my Plasma cutter for straight cuts and circle cuts, but used my Vertical Bandsaw alot more becuase it was just more accurate and faster, but withthe Plasma table that changes I had a Torchnmate in the past and sold it because I did not use it enough, but that was stupid, when you need one these are invaluable just making complex pieces where you need more than one nothing beats it Tormate xs Langmuir, I would say while Cross Fire is not as heavy duty, it definitely has less "warts"

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