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fullthrottleguy

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fullthrottleguy last won the day on May 5 2018

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About fullthrottleguy

  • Rank
    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 11/01/1963

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  • Location
    Torrance, CA

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Gecko Loop
  • Your Ride
    Any Sand Car that is Fast, light, and fun

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  1. I cannot give you advice and everyone's case is different, but my story is pretty typical from what I have seen. I have had 4 back surgeries, two micro discectomy's, the first was after I had periods of pain - I learned later it was from a Herniated disc. The first surgery was caused by my Chiropractor that ruptured my disc during an adjustment. The second disc ruptured 2 years later because of the extra strain from the first operation placing more stress on the herniation of that disc. Both surgeries did not relieve my pain - Surgery is an LDE (Last ditch effort) IMO. I do not regret going that route as I had bone spurs that intruded on my Sciatic Nerve (think a 24hour a day charlie horse) I could not stand or walk for 6 weeks and was on huge meds... that was back in the 90's the technology has gotten better. After those surgeries were "somewhat successful" as I could walk and mostly sleep, the pain was there always and several times a year I had days and even weeks of 8-12 Vicodin a day just to make it through the day and some all day in bed days. Back in 2005, I researched all the nerve blocks, had a tens unit and considered a full nerve block, the problem is they do not fix the problem, (not much has changed in that tech from what I can tell) they mask it and eventually the nerve fails and then you are possibly chair bound, some people go a long time, some people see it faster. When I stopped that, I had a "neural cleansing" in 2009, essentially clearing all the scar tissue from the first two operations and scars from my nerve sack rubbing on bone while I was treating the pain... that left my spine with some "large openings, and by using some nerve restoration meds, I had "less" incidents I could go Months without pain it was fantastic. I was now able to do "core strengthening" without having an Incident, and I was careful. This has helped alot, everything got better for me.. but it did not last... Even with that, from the 90's no more tennis, golf, bowling, basketball, Motorcycles or Jetski's, and minimal twisting, you just never knew when turning wrong would put you down for a couple days. Yeah I still went to the dunes, could not lift more than 10 lbs, and even in a comfy car, was always worried I would paralyze myself on a hard hit (still an issue) Finally in 2012 I slept wrong and woke in the middle of the night and the pain made me twist wrong, and could no longer stand, sit or walk, I went 8 weeks that way and finally had a fusion on one of the affected discs, the adjacent disk was not as bad, so we left it to prevent a lack of bending. In my case it is L4/L5 L5/S1 these are the two areas that are responsible for 30% of the load in your back, if you fuse both you have a great chance of blowing out the two discs above them - which are weaker - nothing is ever easy... Now 7 years later I have only 1 out of maybe 8 weeks of severe pain and its usually manageable and lasts 1 or 2 days with icing and Motrin and bed rest, and I hope it stays that way. I have no unrealistic expectations of no pain and going older makes my core weaker... Yes I have Pain nearly every day, but bearable. Technology is better, but pain only fix is usually not the answer, and surgery should be avoided IMO if you can walk - the slow path of building a super strong core, keeping the weight off and good diet is where I would start ... If it takes 6 months to heal it and strengthen it, it's better than a failed surgery or surgery related scar tissue down the road. A back issue is something that requires patience Best of luck to your son - he could easily be the exception and get better - I sure hope thats the case...
  2. IMO Vented Catch cans are completely outdated unless you have a Really loose engine with tons of Blow-By or are running a 1/4 mile car with so much boost everything grows so fast you need huge clearances and will need to vent tons of crank case pressure very quickly. A good catch can that separates oil from the crank case vent pressure and puts the oil-free vapor back into the manifold is still the best IMO they have to use a good screening method because Oil does not really burn and will cause Detonation and that why people like to just buy vented catch cans - nothing goes back in and not all catch cans are created equally , but ultimately they are not great for cars that run full dune weekends and are a bit "loose" they will stink and puff and drool. You will still find the vented ones on high dollar cars that make 1400+HP and get periodic rebuilds, they have lots of blow-by its a consequence of that much instantaneous boost pressure... but I still see them with ooze dripping off the filters all the time at the sand drags As far as closed system cans, I like these cans and have used them on SC engines for years both on street and sand - if you fill or even have more than an oz of oil in these after a weekend at G, its time to rebuild, not buy a bigger can...IMO http://www.mikenorrismotorsports.com/billet-pcv-catch-cans.html Follow the instruction and I think you will be satisfied ... These are around $100 , there is a copy of that can on amazon for $20, and it actually works, but its not "real" billet, its machined cast... so a bit risky
  3. Sad but pretty normal especially on Xtremes - almost everyone runs some sort of sealer - do a search here on GD. You will find everything from Antifreeze to starch, to commercial sealers. They all work to some degree. I find the best course is starting with using bead sealer and painting the inside of the sidewalls with Tireject (none better) when you mount the tires – thats 99% effective
  4. Continental bought Goodyear's brand - so same belts... sorta... I used the Goodyears exclusively for years for SC cars, , they were awesome, But since the switch, I have had no luck with CONTI, I have moved to Gates HD (Green) belts and would never go back
  5. Yeah its a great place that fits in your pocket 😉 but its true way less LEOs per square inch TG on Gecko we have our "permits" checked 3x a day (on same trucks)
  6. I was told these transmit the plate number to the police car up to 700 yards away - can anyone confirm this? I also know the new plates are coming with Barcodes (not visible in our light spectrum) that new police cars can scan from SEVERAL HUNDRED FEET AWAY Los Angeles and OC are using ALPR SW (not JALPER on the board) and every city owned camera can and does scan every license plate it sees - the barcode makes this even more effective CALIFORNIA IS AWESOME!
  7. I did it in Green and white- I need to dig up the pics - took almost a day to wire for a month's pleasure...
  8. Been doing this for the last 3 years - bored with it- I think I am gonna do multi-color LED, the front and top roof only about 100ft and the driveway side top and bottom another 100ft I do it on two timers Thinking of doing some lawn ornaments and would like to start doing the tree again - but its a hassle.. thoughts??? any brand lights better than others?
  9. I use 1/16 Aluminum DP and I use Liquid nails as well as stainless screws on 24" centers to affix, but its honestly really too heavy, and it is slippery if you get any water or oil on it. Even though I like the look and easy clean up ... Sand in epoxy paint is for more practical, and when it gets bad looking - just roll it deck paint every season I had Coin floor on 28' trailer and it was great but Any oil and its slippery (don't spin on it though, it gets ugly). Next trailer I am not using Plywood, I am getting interlocking ridged extruded aluminum, I am, starting to see that on trailers like floors of big rig trailers ands its lighter and better IMO
  10. Yes and no - using a freeze plug works well - but you need a 1/4" hole in the plug to balance the flow like a fully open thermostat would
  11. Cooling system problems can be frustrating - the simple rule is that you need air to move across the radiator at every speed of the car will not cool. A high volume water pump will move more water (maybe) than a stock one, but that sometimes makes a bigger problem as the water moves too fast through the system, or does nothing at all because of the thermostat restricting the flow. Cavitation is all the better" pumps fix, but GM brand LS pumps don't do that until 7,000 RPM or more at worst. So to answer your question - no not worth it unless your stock GM water pump has eroded vanes from age - a new high volume pump will not fix problems If the car cooled before with the Same HP (HP makes heat) and the tune has not changed (retarded timing causes more heat) and the only change is the Windshield... and you have new same size radiator- so clean no restriction and assuming your mix of coolant and "water wetter" or any major brand surfactant is the same.... the problem is likely a stuck thermostat (assuming you run one and I would not, just a restrictor) or more likely not enough air flow over the radiator. Get air across the radiator and check the fans - I hope you replaced the fans with the radiator, after a years of use they do slow down and become less efficient. Cooling problems suck, but generally throwing money at them is a waste - no matter how much you spend - its not a substitute for moving air over the radiator
  12. He must have watched "Damnation Alley" a few too many times I would buy that - NEVER
  13. Woulda listed 4 weeks ago - I was lazy - sorry

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