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fullthrottleguy last won the day on May 5 2018

fullthrottleguy had the most liked content!

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About fullthrottleguy

  • Rank
    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 11/01/1963

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  • Location
    Torrance, CA

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Gecko Loop
  • Your Ride
    Any Sand Car that is Fast, light, and fun

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  1. I would agree on the marketing. I have used VHT Poly Urethane chassis paint on A-arms - held up as well as any paint does about $6 a can. I am really interested to see if Steel It holds up better. Powder coat works well because if its done right and the right formula you cannot sand blast it off. Just choose a satin finish and it pretty much looks the same year to year 10 years ago I ceramic/porcelain coated my A-Arms like we use on headers - held up really well but turned to flat silver after 3 trips I considered doing my shocks in that in black like my exhaust, its only 3mil think compared to double that in paint
  2. It looks great - but I am not sure why SteelIT is any better than any other paint on a shock - It seems any good (and far cheaper) paint will work as well. Steel 3 advantages from what I see and none apply here: 1. You can weld through it 2. Its a rust preventative (stainless flakes inn the paint) 3. Its Non Toxic This makes it great for bare race chassis that get lots of cracks to weld up and would rust if left un treated On a shock you want maximum adhesion - this would be better with an epoxy like Ceracote which is a polymer ceramic epoxy - which by nature is very thin and very resistant to impact (think sand) or a good Etching primer and crosslinked polyurethane chassis paint (like roll bar paint) But the problem with most any paint on a shock is that you need a few coats and that alone is build up and it traps the heat in as I see it. Paint traps heat and paint with stainless flakes would seem to trap more heat. The ceracoat at least is super thin and better for heat dissipation and build up I may be wrong but this treatment seems like a huge compromise and short term cosmetic fix
  3. Amazing Transition, and great insight by Hondo... thanks for posting Enjoy that new ride...
  4. I know I am late to the game here...It sure looks like they are together right - and just too much angle - was it measured - were straps changed? Did the old CV have the Stars undercut and now the axles pulling on the cages when in full droop? Race prep will give you a couple degrees more angle and thats the Only time it "benefits" If the angle is not severe it literally does nothing other than keeping the CV's running cooler. You are basically loosening up tolerances. Some people feel that race prep can stop components from cracking due to removal of stress risers by smoothing edges. However just like polishing connecting rods if you go the wrong directions use will cause stress. There are a couple methods out there I see deployed. Racers throw CV's away alot so they won't prep maybe like my full season or two CV life... The first is just to open up the cage and removed the burrs and smooth the entrance and exits for the balls on the race and star. The seems to be just good practice to eliminate any manufacturing defects and if done right remove stress risers. A lot of people throw the parts in the tumbler afterward to keep everything smooth The second is what we call the EMPI race prep. Thats just the use of .002 under balls. Has the same affect as loosening tolerances. Lots of people do this in conjunction with tumbling the parts like EMPI does. This actually works surprisingly well IMO. The third is how I was taught to race prep the CV's and its a lot of work. Start by measuring everything up and inspecting everything for pits.. Then you take the race and use 120 sandpaper square roll with grinders grease on a die grinder, polish each channel and smooth the entry and exits then do the Star same way. then follow up with a 360 0r 400 grit roll. Hit the race and star with diesel fuel and drop in the tumbler with "brown triangle grit for about 4 hours. Use standard balls and a Good 300M rem polished cage like a fortin - needs no work. Hit everything with Diesel again to clean it all and assemble.
  5. RIP - Peter Fonda I was too young to experience that Easy Rider "freedom" but way closer to it than Millenials, It is a must watch for everyone
  6. I miss my 2500HD so much... Truck looks great
  7. So sad - she is really that dumb and "we" elected her - Idiocracy is not far away...
  8. For me personally I am always learning- something I got from my Dad. Being older, I have the "wisdom" of having screwed up a lot and know better, not to mention I probably spent 50% of my life's income on something automotive or automotive related. I read everything I can about the subject, go watch someone do it, take pics and videos etc. and ask a lot of questions. My career started as an engineer so that mindset is valuable and I was a product manager, so I plan everything out first and iterate as needed. I usually get into it and say, what else does in need .... A few areas I know people can do better than me and I let them do it - Tig, precision machine work and lifting anything heavy for the most part.
  9. Some heavy duty Buggy works Spindles... What are the caps on - Latest Rage? Logo looks good. Are you doing your own powder coating on the spindles and small parts now? Personally I do like the New RBP and JAMAR that have copied the ProAM Big Cap that helps mentally with "hoisting" the wheel on and aligning it, and the center of the wheel looks flat
  10. Looks good Jason - Have you moved to the Bronze Trunions on the stock rockers or still using the captured rollers? Are those your (Alper MS) Main studs or ARP?
  11. Good advice right there
  12. That looks awesome - and it works like I am sure it does - JAlper has a real winner there!!
  13. Yes - those are the ones you want - and buy a spare or two (of the relay) - hopefully then if you keep one in the car none will ever fail (Karma hacking) and Bosch Pin out is a standard that Bosch developed with their relays and everyone copied
  14. Kartek has them - As does Amazon and ebay (watch for knock offs) and most electronics retailers. You can but they with wires and as bare sockets and pins for a cleaner look. There are two types automotive people generally use: The standard "bosch" pin out - like Holley uses and keeping consistent is good. And 280mini like GM uses on new cars - I recently used the 280's on a car with limited space and they are nice - completely sealed as well, but I am old school and like the Bosch pin out
  15. Holley has said they will have Ford and Chrysler plug and play planned for modern engines (like the Hemi and the Coyote) for the Terminator, but it leaves out Honda and others... The ECU can be tuned and configured through the software to use just about any combo or reluctor, firing order, etc and those tables exist in the HP and Dominator and you can just copy them over - in fact the SW is free and its almost a duplicate of the HP SW - with less IO and some changes to Boost Builder(easier IMO). For instance I took the Seimens 80LB injector data from an HP tune I had, and put it in the Terminator - 2 minutes work - so nice and easy. But the harness is not universal yet, so you would have to re-pin the connectors and that is not fun IMO

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