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TransaxleMat

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About TransaxleMat

  • Rank
    Grunt
  • Birthday 04/27/1987

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  • Website URL
    http://www.TransaxleEngineering.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Simi Valley

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    Barstow , Lucerne Valley, Jawbone, Ridgecrest
  • Your Ride
    Tandem Pre-Runner, '85 Raceco class 2 w/Acura 3.2

Recent Profile Visitors

204 profile views
  1. Will do. Ill keep y’all posted with what I find. Thanks for the input!
  2. The plugs seem to be just fine. They all look exactly the same when I pulled them.
  3. UPDATE!!! I have proceeded to pull the upper and lower manifolds off and clean everything. I also replaced the injectors with a set of refurb eBay sets while I was in there. I have no idea how old the originals are, or if the dust that got in the engine effected them. I am now getting a P1399 which is the random misfire code. I changed out the knock sensor that Just so happened to be broken, but that didnt seem to help the misfire. I pull each coil wire off while running but the misfire is not consistent enough to tell if it is one cylinder or multiple. Any thoughts? I am going to check for a vacuum leak in the meantime.
  4. I never had a problem with the filter keeping dirt/dust out before, it was just my fault that i unknowingly tightened the filter down without it being fully seated the last time i installed it. Then I’m sure on the next test run, it came loose unbeknownst to me and then let all hell break loose. It’s time for me to fire my mechanic! SMH..
  5. Personally, I wired my radio directly to the battery both positive and negative leads. I have not tried it to the disconnect but I would try it both ways and see if there is much if any difference. I could be wrong, but I believe the goal of radio wiring is to keep the wire away from any other circuits to reduce any kind of noise feedback in your radio.
  6. Last trip I found the culprit to why my car was running poorly. It seems my air cleaner wasn’t seated completely and was sucking dust into the engine for the last couple of trips (about 50 or so miles). Any thoughts from the Honda guys as to if a complete engine rebuild is necessary or if pulling off the intake and plenum and cleaning up as much as possible is a first step? I am pretty disappointed in myself for a stupid mistake like this, but I guess there is a first time for everything.
  7. Is it possible that a wire broke free somewhere when I crashed and that is causing my issues?
  8. Hey guys, Just a little update. I still havent been able to take the buggy out to the desert to test, but have checked a few items along the way. I put in all fresh gas, checked both fuel filters (my coarse filter had some fuel cell foam debris but not much), checked spark plugs, and air cleaner and all seam to be normal. I checked my ecu one more time and its showing a P0453 which is looking like an EVAP code and im sure its common but just wanted to check.? Im assuming all of the evap sensors and such come off once installing the motor into a buggy but just want to confirm. Also I start the thing in the garage and it still seems to sputter a little after I crack the throttle and the rpms come back to idle. I dont remeber this being normal. Any thoughts?
  9. I had 15 gallons of fresh gas mixed with 5 of old, but I will definitely try all fresh gas. All check both filters while I am at it. I just found it odd that it was only between 3-5k rpm that it would happen and not consistently throughout all rpms.
  10. I have been rebuilding the entire front half of my car for the last year and a half and the engine has only been started once during that time. I finally got the car back together and took it out for a test last weekend. The car will start and idle normally but occasionally die which its never done before. When out test driving, 3 out of 5 tests the engine would fall on its face during acceleration between 3k-5k rpm but would continue to accelerate normally once v-tech kicked in after that. Once I let off of the gas it would backfire and would continue to have the same flat spot between 3000 and 5000rpms as I continued to drive. The 2 other tests out of 5 the car seemed to run normally like it always had in previous years. I am thinking it could be the gas has gummed up something or possibly a bad sensor? The car ran flawlessly the last time prior to ripping the front end off in the last race. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am itching to get back in the drivers seat. Hear are the codes it was throwing , but I know most, if not all are normal. P1607 P1298 P0141 P1768 P1706 P0450 P1491
  11. I finally got to go testing yesterday. The first thing I changed was the sending unit. I figured, if the solenoid was bad or not working, then wouldn't the V-tec system would be intermittent or not working after I reset the code on the ecu? When car went into limp mode last trip, I would just delete all the codes and the car would run fine/normal for the next 15 minutes. (does that make sense? I don't know) Anyways, I just decided to start with replacing the oil pressure sender instead of the solenoid and the car ran great. I'm hoping that was the issue. Nonetheless I will be carrying that solenoid around with me for a few more trips just in case the V-TEC code comes back. Thanks again guys for the help. Much appreciated!
  12. Good thing you rebuilt those when you did. Looks like the piston in the reservoir would have blown out of that shock if you ever took a good hit in a G-out! Also that shock oil looks like its seen too many miles.
  13. Great thanks for the info. Will let you guys know how it works out.
  14. Is the switch and the solenoid the same thing?
  15. I went through and checked all the main power components and all seem to be in good shape and secure. The battery is only a few trips old. I appreciate the input. I am certain it is the P1259 VTEC code now like you are saying. I cleared the codes again today after a fresh 5w 20 oil change and taking apart and cleaning the screen and plunger assembly. I proceeded to take the car down the street and it threw the code again. It did this two more times today after that. The last time I tried clearing code and testing the car ran normally. I then checked the codes again and the only one missing was the P1259. So, I guess the next step is to buy the solenoid and switch to have for back up if it happens next trip out. Where is the best place to buy them? AGAIN, THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR THE HELP! YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME!

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