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azyxzer

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    Sahuarita az

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  1. My previous car (a desert prerunner) had a PS cooler and I thought that it was a good idea for that application, where you're running hard continuously for hours. But if your fluid is getting that hot just sitting there in the garage it sounds like something is restricted and it is building pressure and bleeding it off internally through an orifice somewhere. You might want to temporarily tee in a pressure gauge at the discharge port of the pump and see what kind of pressure you have idling with no load on the steering. If there is very much pressure in that condition (like maybe more than 50 psi?) then something is wrong (probably with the Char-Lynn), and a cooler will be a band-aid but probably won't solve the problem. Or like suggested above, switch to electric...
  2. Wally was a stand-up guy for sure - RIP (June Cleaver) "Wally, where are you going?" (Wally Cleaver) "I'm going over to slug Eddie." (June Cleaver) "That's no way to talk, this is Sunday." (Wally Cleaver) "You're right, I'll wait 'til tomorrow and slug him in the cafeteria."
  3. ^^^ I would try this. I had an E350 4x4 Ford van with a straight axle and years ago it picked up an unpredictable (and terrifying) death wobble. I couldn't find anything wrong with the suspension but eventually I put new tires on it and it never happened again. You might try rotating front to back and see if that changes anything.
  4. You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig. Happy Birthday Arch.
  5. And if you go with the Berryman's (good stuff in my experience, much better than Slime), after you put it in put your wheel down lying flat on the floor (non-beadlock side) and shake it around good while tipping it up about 6" (like a swash plate pump) to let the sealer get in the bead. I've found this works a lot better than just driving the car, because the centrifugal force keeps it away from the bead while driving. It may keep oozing out a little for eternity (at least mine has done so, I don't think it ever hardens) so that you have to wipe it off once in awhile, but it should stop the leaking. If you store them lying down, put the beadlock side down to reduce the mess. I've also found that its a lot easier to get the beadlock side mounted and then dump the sealer in the other side before catching the bead. No messing with the little pump that way.
  6. 2016 YXZ 1. Good - it's been rock-solid reliable for 3500 hard miles. 2 Good - the engine runs a lot like a 125 two-stroke (it's got a reflash and an exhaust, otherwise stock). It's fun keeping it on the pipe. 3. Bad - the notorious rear end "donkey kick". It's much better after Weller suspension mods, but it's still there.
  7. Until they went automatic, all big semi trucks had pull-type clutches for just about forever (at least back to the late 1950's). They also had a clutch brake so that you could get the non-synchro tranny into gear. They had two separate adjustments, a ring in the clutch pressure plate itself and also the linkage, so that you could get a bit of clearance on the fork when the pedal was released and also the proper squeeze on the clutch brake in the last inch of pedal travel. I did not know any cars used a pull-type clutch, but my guess is that you may have over-traveled and bottomed out the (movable) pressure plate shoe on the frame of the pressure plate by pulling it back too far and overcome the strength of the snap ring that looks like it used to be on the release bearing (especially since you mentioned that it is a stock pressure plate, not excessive spring force). 1 I would recommend using the pedal stop to limit the travel to just enough to disengage the clutch to be able to get it in gear smoothly without grinding. Judging by the picture you look to have quite a bit of pedal travel as it stands. If you have a bigger bore master cylinder than stock and/or more master cylinder rod travel it could be causing you problems. Depending upon how the pedal feels, you may also want to go to a smaller bore master cylinder to get reduced pedal pressure and a little more pedal travel to make it easier to get the stop set correctly.
  8. This might work for you: This tail light converter combines your vehicle's independent brake light and turn signal to make them functional with your trailer's lights. Converter works with either incandescent or LED tail lights. 4-Way connector sold separately. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wiring/Hopkins/HM48847.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google | Shop - Trailer Wiring&adgroupid=128484934262&campaignid=15586143335&creative=569877447301&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9030209&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpImTBhCmARIsAKr58cxPN-FeZaMyF_s56VJTuAXhTXUDk1ysNDkrQdOauaJrVIMKNIbs3f8aAraxEALw_wcB
  9. A Detroit Locker would probably be fine in a heavy truck like yours. I had one in a CJ7 and it almost never unlocked, which meant I had to "drive" it all the time on the pavement. On the rare occasions when it did unlock, like a really sharp turn taking off from a stop sign or something, it made a pretty loud bang. So not too user friendly, but it made for good four-wheeling. I bought the whole axle assembly complete so maybe it could have had a problem too.
  10. This picture is not of the particular one that I had back in 1983, but it is the same bike. Imagine riding three 1970's 250 motocross bikes (with no power valves and super peaky power bands) all at the same time and you will get the picture. It was super stable riding giant straight-line wheelies, but gave you the fear of death every time you went around a corner...
  11. Mine just had one, and so did my buddy's (I rebuilt the carbs on both of then, both mid-60's 404's). The picture is of the one I had. I sold it to a guy less than a mile away who still has it. Anyway, give it a try, could be it will work well for you!
  12. They used to be popular on offroad VW's, and they were stock on 404 Unimogs. I had one of those and they are great for not flooding at extreme angles or in rough terrain, and there is a cover on the outside that makes jet changes a snap. That being said, the 'Mog was a 2.1l 85hp engine and I'm thinking that one Zenith won't flow nearly enough for a modern 2.4l much higher power engine.
  13. Yeah that is pretty much the same thing, only not the "junkyard" method!

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