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About carboy

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    yfz 450 R

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  1. carboy

    Parking Brake on Sandcar - Ideas?

  2. carboy

    Parking Brake on Sandcar - Ideas?

    Transporting on an open trailer? I understand wanting to have that extra layer of security, a "last ditch, when all else fails" system to keep your car from rolling off the trailer (or into something in a toy hauler or enclosed)... or if you would just like to have a parking brake, with the thought that you might use it on other occasions, I get it. But seriously, if you invest in a quality set of tie-downs/axle straps or wheel nets, along with properly affixed, quality anchor points on your trailer... and secure the car properly, your car's not going anywhere. When I say quality tie-downs, I mean just that... from a reputable company, straps and hardware that have a proven track record in the auto transport arena. I know people will take issue with my next comment, but IMHO, the yellow cheapie Harbor Freight ratchet straps don't fit the quality bill. Add to that, I've seen a lot of duners use only two of those HF straps to secure a car... running from one side of the trailer to the other, looped through the front and rear of the chassis or control/trailing arms. I totally understand the concern and desire to add another layer of security however, I don't think this is the right solution. Recently, there was a GD.com thread addressing the "transporting in gear" topic, and it is a fact that some engines are sensitive to counter rotation and have been known to skip cam timing. That said, if the car is secured properly, in gear or not, it's not going anywhere. Your car won't be able to rock back and forth, potentially spinning the motor backwards, so personally I wouldn't see any harm in putting your car in gear after your 4 tie-downs are tightened. If you still have the want for a parking brake, but it requires too much effort, is rumored or proven to be less effective, or if there's a reason you can't install decent anchor points (I know some toy haulers can be difficult) perhaps you might consider a couple wheel chocks. You could temporarily affix the fore chock to the trailer deck utilizing a simple, drop-in pin system, extending through the chock into the trailer floor, then add an aft chock and either secure it to the deck or attach it to the forward chock. There's a bunch of different ways you could chock a tire... just one idea.
  3. carboy


    I'm using a Curt Commercial Duty Class V hitch (2.5" receiver) on my coach, 20,000 pound draw, 2,700 pound tongue weight. You can get them through etrailer.com, pretty reasonable and free shipping.
  4. carboy

    Color Change Question

    LOL, so true with many cars however, not all. I don't want to speak for others however, I know my car isn't the only one out there that doesn't bottom out on the chassis. My long travel has right at 8" of clearance at the rear skid plate and if I remember correctly, 11" at the front at full squat (35.5 x 17 STU's and 12.50 x 17 STU's up front). I have a suspension set-up sheet that I had to submit to Fox when I had the shocks rebuilt/revalved, it's quite a lengthy form and this is one of the many dimensions they ask for. I have the sheet stashed, will double check that front measurement. As you might surmise, the springs are removed, then all 8 shocks are put back on the car, then allowed to bottom. Funny, back when I was looking to buy a car, that belly pan bottoming out issue was something that I vowed to avoid like the plague... having suffered through the first year of the original RZR, that thing use to bottom out the chassis right under the seat pans... hurt so effin' bad, no BS, after one season, I sold it and bought another new Rhino to satisfy my "steering wheel" needs (on YFZ's back then). Weird thing was, even with Elka shocks and springs (pretty much all there was back then for RZR turn key shock upgrades), the bottoming out was totally unpredictable... the hard, sharp hits when you expected it to bottom, nothing... yet the gentle rollers coming into a bowl, that thing would slam into those so hard, gave me an instant headache. But I digress... working back towards the topic, having adequate chassis clearance at full suspension squat or bottoming was a must have for me... when I finally found my car, the seller specifically stated in his add the chassis clearance when bottomed. That along with a bunch of other info I considered critical, was such a compelling add, I drove 140 miles after just returning from a weekend lake trip to check the car out... buying it that afternoon. (Maybe just a good salesman?!) My car had 23"/24" of travel front/rear respectively... I say had because during the shock rebuild, Fox also install hydraulic top-outs, which ate up a little shock travel, so no doubt I have less than that now... maybe 2 inches? Don't know and it didn't matter... the hydraulic top-outs are awesome, I run without straps, you can't feel when the shocks top out now, no "thuds" or clunking, they're absolutely smooth. To clarify, I'm talking full wheel travel here, full droop to full squat... not chassis downward travel at ride height. It's been 3 years since I had Fox do my shocks, I don't recall the ride height setting regarding compression/extension shock stroke, maybe 60/40%? So, at ride height I've got something close to half of those wheel travel figures before the shocks bottom... of course minus that loss of shock stroke length and resulting effect at the hub center. There was a thread on here not too long ago regarding this very issue, setting up suspensions to alleviate chassis bottoming... fun read. And even on a car that for whatever reason lacks adequate chassis clearance at full squat, if not horrible, spacers can be placed in the shocks, albeit at the expense of those wheel travel figures. I think that's the lesser of two evils... I'd gladly give up some travel to keep my chassis from going subterranean... but, that's just me. Oh, one other advantage I have is, my car is a mid-engine... virtually no chassis overhang behind the rear tires, nothing out there to hit on those sharp transitions. Lastly... what do I consider long travel? I'd think once you break that 20-21 inch figure, to me... I'd think you're there. Again, it's subjective... I'm not aware of a guidebook with definitive numbers, that said, I'm confident there's a boatload of GD.com peeps out there whose definition differs from mine, that's fair enough!
  5. carboy

    Color Change Question

    Although subjective, I would consider it a mid-travel... as I recall my buddy was told or thought it had roughly 17-18-ish inches of wheel travel. I have a long travel car, in comparison, with similar wheel width and backspacing, the track was narrower, upper/lower control and trailing arms were shorter... that combined with a little less shock length, given the similar placement, I'd think that travel assessment was fairly legit. As a side note... don't know what you have now or what you're buying, strictly my opinion here... but the travel thing, it's just a number, good selling point or bragging rights . Sure, it's good to know and great if you have it... but I don't believe those big numbers to be critical or particularly useful for the dune scene. Of course, if bashing through the whoops is your forte, then sure... the more the better. It's been my experience, while truly "duning", I don't see those of us with long travel cars carrying any more speed through the dunes than mid-travel cars... and will readily admit, while chasing some of these mid-travel cars, as they say... "made this fat kid sweat"!
  6. carboy

    Gear One Back Up and Running Soon

    Any update to the Gear One resurrection?
  7. carboy

    Color Change Question

    Here's the story my buddy received from the gent he bought the car from in 2010... reportedly the original owner. Extreme built the car in 2003/2004, as Elwood45 stated, it is titled as a 2004 however, when first built, it was not sporting the Blue Angels theme (unknown original design/colors). Then in 2007, the car went back to Extreme for the Blue Angels theme, who reportedly did the entire makeover. Interestingly enough, the original owner told my buddy that he had no past or present affiliation with the Blue Angels rather, he got his inspiration after seeing some low flybys from Blue Angels aircraft while out in the dunes. He said he just thought it would be kinda cool, something unique... that, it certainly was. I would think Extreme can verify or debunk this story... let us know what they say!
  8. carboy

    Color Change Question

    Here's some pics with the original exhaust...
  9. carboy

    Color Change Question

    Thanks, yeah... good guy, he absolutely maintained the car with an open checkbook, that's for sure. Funny... although not a pilot, he's an aircraft mechanic and worked for a company that overhauled turbines, mostly if not all, for helicopters.
  10. carboy

    Color Change Question

    Well, then there ya go! Looks beautiful... good job! Do you still have the car?
  11. carboy

    Color Change Question

    It was even a little better before he did all the upgrades... the headers that are on the car in these pics aren't the originals, it use to have two fairly large round tailpipes that exited in the center, right below the wing. The original air intake/air filter was rather restrictive, as I recall my buddy was looking for more HP... so the cool F-18-ish exhaust had to go to accommodate the new intake setup. I'll see if I have some older pics of it... if not, I would think my buddy would have some. The guy who bought the car was from Chandler... story was he wasn't sure what he was going to do with the car, was reportedly going to play with it for a while, then decide on his gameplan.
  12. carboy

    Color Change Question

    2turbofords, guessing it was this Extreme... a lot of time and effort was put into the Blue Angels theme, no doubt. Buddy of mine owned the car for about 7 years... sold it in September of '17. Dennis58, while I'm not suggesting you not build the car of your liking based on resale speculation, I am saying it's something that you at least need to be aware of... hopefully it won't matter! In the case of my buddy, he had a tuff go of it, trying to sell his car... and I know without a doubt that the Blue Angels theme was a contributing factor. Of course as many GD.com-ers have voiced in the past, the 2D didn't help nor did the single shock setup, and of course timing also comes into play. Really a shame as with proper care and feeding, most know you can get some decent time out of the 2D, additionally the lack of standalone bypass shocks shouldn't be a deal killer either. However, add the "theme" thing, one that's not easily undone, didn't help attract prospective buyers... it took him a good long time to sell a really sound, well sorted car... IMHO, my buddy ended up pretty much giving that car away. Just in the previous 2 years before he sold, he had invested a ton of money into the car... complete fresh 383 stroker built by Larry's Engine & Marine, as I recall an honest 515HP on Larry's engine dyno. Tranny was freshened up by Az. Transaxles, new rack, pedal assemblies, upholstery, latest Lowrance GPS... Hondo did a bunch of aluminum work, built a new dash and console, updated lights to LED's, etc. Add to that, very little use after all the updates... maybe 3 or 4 trips max, and those trips, more time was spent socializing than burning fuel. The thing is, the F-18/Blue Angels theme was done so well on this car, would seem a shame to undo it all... very unique for sure, great detail however, certainly not everyone's cup of tea. That said... I've never bought, built or owned anything that I gave 2 poops about resale value... ya do what floats your boat, you address that resale bridge when you cross it.
  13. carboy

    Interesting "Pop" out of an LS1

    One other thing, just to clarify, I'm in no way suggesting that you don't have computer issues... the film in your exhaust, the rich appearing plugs, very possible all your problems are solely ECU related however, I believe you still have something else going on with what I believe is excessive oil, collecting in your catch can. I suppose if you're constantly turning 7,000RPM, or if you have a generally tired motor, that amount of oil being pushed out of the crankcase could be explained... but I get the impression that the "good bit of oil" you describe in your catch can is something new, along with the newly developed miss.
  14. carboy

    Interesting "Pop" out of an LS1

    While I certainly have no explanation for the miss not being noticable when cold, large amounts of catch can oil, white/bluish smoke combined with the "pop stutter" sound you describe while on the gas, suggests to me you've got a bad cylinder... be it a broken piston or ring(s). The LS experts out there acknowledge number 7 hole as having the tendency to run on the hot side, hot enough to take out a piston? I don't know... I can tell you though, I broke a Mahle piston in my stroker LS and coincidently, it was number 7... so, whatever that's worth. That said, although you suspect computer issues, as you're finding out per CBM, it would appear there's not much support for it out there. What you can do for little or no $$$$ is verify/eliminate some of the basic mechanical systems first. I personally would start with a simple exhaust primary tube temperature test. Several ways to do it, I like using an infrared thermometer however, you can also dribble some water on the primaries to see how the water responds, or even use a gloved hand to lightly feel how hot each header tube feels. The key words here are gloved, light, quick touching of the tubes... you'll feel the heat quickly however, if you have a dead cylinder, that header tube should be considerably cooler... allowing you to touch it longer. Again, the infrared is the best, safest way to go and of course, more accurate... good tool to have in your arsenal. If you do find a cooler primary, do the obvious.. make sure you've got spark at the plug, check the injector to make sure it's at least receiving power. Of course, just because it's firing doesn't mean the injector is good however, before you start moving injectors around to different holes to see if the cooler cylinder follows, at this point I would perform a leakdown test. For an hour or so of your time, it'll provide you with some meaningful info on the condition of your motor without pulling it apart. If you don't already have a leakdown tester, they can be had pretty cheaply.
  15. LOL, I'm with ya... I love my coach, even though it's a big, fancy unit with all the fun stuff, the construction is pretty lame, fiberglass, wood, plastic, staples, screws and glue... no different than the "entry level" weekend camper parked next to it! Gotta pretty much step up into Prevost territory to see quality in the shell/body... sadly for me, not enough checkbook. Gotta say, given the way they're slammed together, pretty amazing they hold up as well as they do... at least the RV's I've owned.

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