Jump to content

carboy

Members
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About carboy

  • Rank
    Gunner

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    olgiby
  • Your Ride
    yfz 450 R

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. carboy

    Crazy things you see in Glamis

    No expert here... but I think that's more like a "professional" recorder, something like the TV/movie folks use, not an antique... but, I could be wrong!
  2. carboy

    Transporting a Rail/SxS

    I was merely responding to the notion that a timing chain couldn't jump timing. Couldn't agree with you more with regards to a vehicle that's properly secured, but I suppose people have had failures, either with the tie downs or anchors... in gear gives you that last ditch safety net, keeping your ride on that open trailer or from rolling back and forth in your enclosed or toy hauler. In the world according to me, use quality shit, equip your trailer with secure anchors that aren't going to pull out or fail, learn the proper method of securing a vehicle for transport... problem solved.
  3. carboy

    Transporting a Rail/SxS

    Right out of the Yamaha YXZ service manual; NOTICE "It is very important to only rotate the motor clockwise, if the motor is rotated counterclockwise with the cylinder head cover removed, even a few degrees, the timing chain will climb over the camshaft gear teeth and change the camshaft timing (jump time) – this can happen even if the timing chain tensioner is installed" Yes, I know... point being, even with a chain driven cam(s), jumped timing is possible on certain motors as a result of reverse or counter-rotation... it would appear only the interference of the chain contacting the underside of the cylinder head cover (what I've been incorrectly referring to as a cam cover for as long as I can remember) , is what's preventing the chain from jumping gear teeth. Do what you're comfortable with... for me, I see no point in pushing my luck... if nothing else, I'd rather keep the head cover aluminum on the head cover.
  4. carboy

    Post card dated 1928

    I realize that the cost thing is relative however, it's still fun to see what a buck would buy back in the "good ole' days"! Thanks for sharing, Don!
  5. carboy

    Trailer Cabinet

    Sorry, just sold it... if the deal falls through, I'll contact you. Thanks for your interest!
  6. carboy

    Sirius xm radio

    As I recall, in the early days, XM and Sirius were competitors... then of course joined forces some time later. For quite some time, even though they became one, they still used different receivers... so if you had an XM subscription, you needed to stick with a specific XM receiver. Years ago, SiriusXM had some smokin' deal on a portable Sirius receiver, I took the bait with the intention of replacing my aging XM "Roady(?) receiver... just assuming it would work since Sirius and XM became one. As I'm re-reading the fine print not more than 30 seconds after placing my order, I now see verbiage stating a Sirius receiver would only work with a Sirius subscription, XM with an XM subscription. My fault, 100%... I immediately called them to see if I could switch the Sirius radio with an XM radio, no deal... they wouldn't even let me cancel rather, I had to "refuse" the receiver at the time of delivery, which is kinda hard to do when you're at work all day. Anyhow, that meant a special trip to the UPS store to refuse... not the end of the world, but not the best customer service either, IMO. I do believe nowadays, there's just one radio/receiver... have to double check on their site.
  7. carboy

    School me on the class C

    Understand your wife liking the class C, although at 32 feet long, it's really not a small coach, but that's the perception given it's car-like cockpit. There's a lot of DP's out there in the 32 to 36 foot range, although the cockpit makes the coach feel much larger than what it really is, like anything else... once you, and more importantly your wife, spend some time in the class A cockpit, it becomes the new norm. First couple trips in our first class A, we were running down a section of the 101 I believe, that was under construction. There were plywood panels on the curb/right side of the coach, presumedly to shield the workers... as trucks in front of us drove past the panels, they would sway towards our lane... my wife was convinced they were going to hit our coach! Between the swaying panels and heavy traffic, she bailed, couldn't sit in the co-pilot seat, went to the couch! A few trips later, piece of cake...
  8. carboy

    School me on the class C

    LOL, I hear ya ref the fuel mileage, your "tune-up" is working, don't mess with it. Good info ref the 6 speed... sounds like Ford has a good combo for the E350 platform with the 6.8 and 6 speed.
  9. carboy

    School me on the class C

    DTA, interesting, the different tunes on the V-10 per application. Ref your mention of the 6 speed, you're absolutely right... that helps a ton. Our old Southwind had the 4L80E... definitely could have used a couple extra gears, particularly something between 3rd and 4th/OD! Obviously, your combo is very well matched, power to weight... good set-up, glad you guys are lovin' it!
  10. carboy

    School me on the class C

    First off, I totally understand the "new" thing, my wife and I have always purchased new... like you, we don't flip our stuff (I still have my 1980 Chevy K20 4x4 I bought new). New is certainly nice and if it's in your budget, go for it however, you can get into a couple year old, higher end, more capable coach for the price of a new lessor coach... something that might be worth considering. We're currently in a 2007 40' DP, Spartan chassis, C9 Cat, all the neat stuff... purchased new, absolutely love it. If we were ever to consider a different coach, we would go the used route... on the bigger diesel coaches, savings can be huge. The only reason we would move on to something else would be strictly a "want" thing, no need. Reason I mention this is, whatever you buy... think way down the road, long term, is it something you can live with happily, for 10 or 15 years? OK, moving on... first off, load capacity should be a big concern to you. Once loaded up with water, your 1528 pound load capacity is reduced to 1117lbs. Add you and the misses, figure 300 pounds, now you're down to 817lbs. Your small enclosed trailer and X3 has got to weigh in at 3000 pounds, probably more, take the standard 10% tongue weight, put that on the back of your coach, load capacity is now down to 517 pounds. Load up all your essentials; food, drink, ice, kitchen and bathroom stuff, bedding, clothes, boots, helmets, cheapie tool kit... on and on and on, you know the story, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and make a prediction, you'll be overloaded on your first trip. My prediction is based on 37 years of duning/RV, real world experience... unless you and your wife are minimalists, you'll more than likely fall into that "overweight" category. Let's face it, one of the big draws to living the RV lifestyle is the ability to "take it with you". Otherwise, we'd all be good living in a tent or out of the back of your camper shelled pickup. What makes matters worse is, without putting your prospective coach on a set of scales, you have no idea what the axle weights are. Although RV manufacturers have gotten better, many still don't put much emphasis on weight balance, placement of where that load capacity is. I've seen some coaches where the remaining load capacity is almost all near one end of the coach, basically over one axle... with the remaining storage area on the opposite end, near the axle that's already maxed or nearly maxed out. Ask any nationally recognized RV technical spokesperson/pro, they all insist you have your coach weighed, preferably before you buy and on individual wheel-set scales, not just axles... unfortunately very few heed this advice. Knowing your weights, you may still end up overloading one axle a bit... a lot of us do and get away with it as there's a pretty significant safety margin in there. However, being aware of it, it's in your best interest to do what you can to mitigate your portliness. If you have your weight issue under control, your next concern should be performance... or lack thereof. I see DTA is happy with the performance of his coach however, you're looking at a smaller and undoubtedly lighter unit. I didn't look up the specs on the 24' Four Winds, so it may or may not be significant however, you need to check into that for a performance comparison. The V-10 puts out some respectable numbers for sure, 362 HP @4750 RPM, max torque of 457lb/ft @ 3200 RPM. By comparison, the 8.1 Chevy in our new 34 ft. Southwind back in 1998, put out 340HP @4200 RPM and 455lb/ft @3200 RPM... very close to the Ford's output sans the higher RPM needed from the V-10 to achieve that max HP. As I recall, the GVW of the Southwind was 16,500lbs... I was running it at 17,000lbs and I gotta say, it went down the road remarkably well. My only complaint was the noise of the cooling fan when spinning up the motor 3500-3800 RPM... which was required at times when going up long grades, fighting a headwind, etc. At 2500 to 3000 RPM, life was good... nice ride. That said, when hooking up a 3500 pound Jeep or 4000 pound trailer, things weren't quite as nice. Going down the road with no incline or side/headwind, it pulled OK... could run overdrive some of the time @68-ish MPH. Throw a very slight incline or wind into the equation, the driving fun diminished quickly... could no longer run overdrive, had to slow down or spin the motor close to 4000 RPM to maintain 68MPH, which I wouldn't do. Not only was the noise a biggie, but spinning that big block that fast, for any length of time... I couldn't do it, just wasn't right. Towing wasn't really a big problem on the shorter trips however, after 4 or 5 hours, it got old... constantly struggling to maintain speed. I couldn't run CC as the tranny would constantly downshift trying to maintain a CC set speed, essentially going to WOT at times, pushing that BB up towards 5000 RPM. Not going there, so right foot on the accelerator pedal pretty much every trip., no cruise... it just wasn't an enjoyable ride at that point, couldn't wait to get to our destination. At a GVW of approximately 16,000lbs, your prospective Jayco is a tad less than 1000 pounds lighter than my former Southwind... with the performance between the two being so close, towing your trailer, I would expect your driving experience to be similar. I drove that coach for 10 years, the final straw for me was having to do an 800 mile trip in one day, towing our Jeep... long day, struggling to maintain speed, throw in the almost constant engine/cooling fan noise, I was done... time to either get out of the RV lifestyle or go the DP route. I put a lot of emphasis on the performance aspect because driving a coach that's a constant struggle to maintain a safe, highway speed, can be quite the party pooper. I have more... but I'll stop here before this turns into a short (ok, long) novel. PS, this is the very first add I opened, what about something like this? https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2013-Jayco-SENECA-36FK-5005129727
  11. Your generator could probably run any compressor with no more than a 1 HP motor as the power requirement drops to approximately 1600/4500 watts run/start-up respectively... any of the aforementioned small portable/contractor style compressors would be fine... daughter had the DeWalt like 310kick, her 4000 Onan ran it no prob. As far as being quiet, that's subjective however, IMHO, all of the direct-drive/oil less compressors I've had or been around seem to be a little more noisy than the larger, oil lubricated units. Kind of a moot point given the output of your generator... maybe the newer units are a bit more quiet.
  12. carboy

    Tips on how to remove Mendiola 2d fom north star 4.6

    And one last thing... before you hook up your Warn 12,000 pound winch to your Northstar via a snatch block, I found this pic of my LS and S4... clearly you can access the pressure plate bolts through the starter boss hole. Unbolt the pressure plate... you're going to do that anyhow, you'll just be doing it in a different order. This way, if it is something that's seized, welded, stuck, out-of-place, hanging up, etc., won't matter... all of those suspect components will remain with the tranny. Once you do that, the only remaining "mechanical" interference will be the flywheel/pressure plate locating pins. If nothing else, after separating the clutch from the flywheel, once the input shaft clears the pilot bearing or the bearing clears the crank (if it's seized on the input shaft), having the engine and trans squared up is really no longer a concern, within reason of course (trans mounting studs). That said, you've now addressed 2 potential causes... the binding issue caused by engine/transmission misalignment and the mechanical interference concern.
  13. carboy

    Tips on how to remove Mendiola 2d fom north star 4.6

    OK, so you're replacing the clutch... why? What happened... was the clutch just slipping? Did the pedal go away? Engagement/disengagement issues? Something get noisy or was there a sudden or catastrophic failure?
  14. carboy

    Tips on how to remove Mendiola 2d fom north star 4.6

    Came across a couple pics that might help visualize one possible scenario. If in fact the pilot bearing is seized on the end of the input shaft, while just a guess here, it appears the OD of the pilot bearing is larger than the ID of the clutch discs (when you visually compare the difference in size of the splined to the pilot bearing section of the trans input shaft). Thinking out loud here, problem with that is, because the engine and trans "spring" back together once you remove your wedge, seems unlikely it would be a pilot bearing issue as it's an interference fit in the end of the crank... wouldn't just slip back into the end of the crank. Then again... if there's sufficient room on the bearing surface of the input shaft for the bearing without having to be inserted into the crank... suppose it's possible, but I'm thinking unlikely. Inquiring minds wanna know...
  15. carboy

    Fuel Cell Vent

    Pull the 90 off the bulkhead fitting and have a peek down there... as Goatpoker said, if it really is a vent check valve, could be stuck/damaged. Could however, just be a simple bulkhead fitting... either way, the plate is gonna have to come off to fix/replace/install.

More Links

©2001 GlamisDunes.com.
All rights reserved.

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.