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tjZ06

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tjZ06 last won the day on September 23

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About tjZ06

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  1. TTT - the enclosed this goes in for G has sold, so make me an offer... -TJ
  2. Congrats! I love the Sierras, it'll be a GREAT machine for that kind of riding. Tell your friends getting belts hot in RZRs in that type of riding to look into cleaning and servicing their clutches ( https://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?/forums/topic/364626-rzr-basic-maintenance-clean-and-inspect-your-clutches-and-more/ ), clutch kits etc. We ride a lot in the Sierras and none of the RZRs in our group, including my tuned Turbo have any belt heat issues if the clutches are in good working order. -TJ
  3. Yeah... that's the problem is, where does it stop? To be clear I'd never destroy one, or promote that idea, and whoever took it upon themselves to trash these things is a McPenis. However, I don't think everybody has to build their own. Maybe add a small touch to an existing one to remember a loved one, but too many of these is going to get too much attention, and this is what happens when they have too much attention... Somewhere I do have some cool pics of a BBQ night last season at the other one that got destroyed. It was great, we had at least half a dozen families bring stuff down to contribute. There were charcoal and pellet grills going (we brought down a little Honda 2K) and everybody threw in steaks, sides, LOTS of beverages, etc. It'll be a bummer not to be able to do that. -TJ
  4. Man, I never even THOUGHT of modifying my helmet, but it's a great idea. My helmet is a very nice carbon fiber helmet, but it's getting pretty haggard (not just the removable pads). In a recreational environment I take it on/off so many more times than I would in a race car, so it's probably a good time to mess around with drilling on it since I'll be needing a new one in the next year or two anyway! Also, EXTREMELY good point about the hoses. We have the Rugged ones and I really need to find a better way to route/retain them (I'm almost thinking of hanging them from a very light-duty bungee so tey want to move with our head more). When they get caught on something they're really stiff and will actually pull your head to one side. Anyway, to the OP, I've run pumpers in everything for years now. Currently have the Rugged pumper you posted above in the RZR and I really like it. I cap the extra port if I don't have a passenger. Also, I highly recommend the adjustable controller. It's a ton of air and kind of loud if you are just by yourself. -TJ
  5. I signed both. The fact that the two efforts can't be combined might shoot us all in the foot. We all need to be really careful to be sure we've signed BOTH petitions. -TJ
  6. tjZ06

    Fab Skills!

    Nice work... I guess LRS is going to have to put you to work as more than a transport driver now! -TJ
  7. Yup. And tweakers would have taken the BBQ and any material they thought they could trade for... This was a different one. There were sort of starting to be a lot of them. I'm hoping the OG is still there, but I'm not telling where it is (in public)! -TJ
  8. I hear you - and I do generally agree on the "happy" dynos. I come from the LS car (as in street, strip, AutoX, Road Course) world, and while I've never had a dyno or my own shop I had 2 good friends that do, so I've watched literally hundreds of LS cars dyno. I'm pretty familiar with what a particular LS with particular mods will realistically make. In other words, when I see a stock bottom-end LS3 with H/C/I advertised as a "650 HP" combo, or a 418-425cui LS3 as a 700+ HP combo on pump gas, I tend to call BS. Also, I do think our rigs have a lot more loss in them than a "typical" street car. You have much larger R&P, larger CVs, etc. and even at static ride-height there is generally way more angle in the CV just from axle sweep than you'd see in something like a 'vette. One good example: the 12.5:1 (it wasn't super-aggressive on compression because I had a backup 91 octane tune I needed to be able to make work in a pinch) 427cui E-85 LS7 I had in my C5 Z06 made right around 600 RWHP (consistently put down 590's... had one "hero run" where SAE-corrected it made 603.something), and that was through the stock C5Z titanium back exhaust section. Swapped that motor into my SCU and it was down to something like 540 on the same dyno (not one of the sand rail motor shop dynos), I forget exactly. That motor had really, really nice heads, a fair amount of cam, etc. I buy about 20% drivetrain loss in a C5Z so that would put that motor at almost exactly 750 HP flywheel. Apply 30% loss (very close to the 33% your numbers show) and it'd be ~525... spittin' distance to the 540ish it actually put down. However, it's not apples to apples since obviously the SCU didn't run a full-length exhaust utilizing a GM back-section and mufflers. I think we got something like 620 RWHP with a more straight-through exhaust which implies 775 HP at 20% loss, or 542.5 at 30% loss which is damn near exactly what it did in the SCU. Anyway, like I said in my first post I'm not disputing that your motors make the power - that is obvious in the sand. Just wondering if you've thought about having your dyno calibrated. No reason not to have it re-calibrated and made 100% right. As for the EPO, I think we both know that has as much to do with the nut behind the wheel, the chassis setup and the overall suspension design as it does HP. EPO isn't HP wars - and it shouldn't be. It's about who has the total package: car, chassis, DRIVER aaaaaaaaaaaand setting that all up properly. I'll still take you up on that ride though! -TJ
  9. Great numbers, and that car is proven to be the ultimate duner's dune-scoot. Now, a question. To be clear, I 100% don't mean this in a negative way, or as "sheeeet talking." I notice your dyno reads low, and you say your 539.9 "would be more like 700 on other industry dynos." I'm not a tuner, I don't own a dyno and I have no skin in this game. I'm just a guy that loves data and info, and I again want to stress I'm not knocking you (it's extremely clear that your motors make real power in the dunes, where it matters!!). So here's my question: why don't you have your dyno re-calibrated to be accurate? Or is it your take that your dyno, and the ~33% drivetrain loss you're seeing on this setup (804 flywheel down to 539.9 RWHP) is accurate and the rest of the industry is who are off and need re-calbrated? I understand there will always be some margin for error, but it seems like things should be a bit more consistent. HP is a simple formula derived from TQ: HP = (RPM * T) / 5252. TQ is a well-defined physical property, and in the case of a drum style dyno can be absolutely calculated based on the rate of acceleration of the drum (TQ itself is the cross-product of the Force and Radius vectors... the Radius vector of the drum is a constant, but Force of course isn't, but Force is derived based on the rate of acceleration. In basic terms, F = I*a where I is the moment of inertia for the drum which is a constant and a is the angular acceleration which is what the dyno measures. F will be in N-m, so really it's our Torque once we translate it to lbs-ft. Anyway, back on topic amazing car and motor build. As much as I'm a LS guy at heart, it'd be really tempting to duplicate something like your car in a new Funco build. The lower CG (and perhaps lower total weight) and packing the flat 6 allows seems perfectly matched to the Funco. I know Funco doesn't really build Subi cars these days because LSs are all the rage - but I'm sure you could pickup a G52 roller then tab it out yourself. Hmmmmmmm. -TJ
  10. Great write up and info! The new Holley stuff is super nice, there are just a few things you need to know (as you found out) to really let it do it's thing. That's a good looking cruiser too, those Limos handle really well. -TJ
  11. Oh you fancy, huh? Yeah... now I have bad ideas in my head of finding a way to kind of do the same... but I'd wait for the Gen3 EcoDiesel for sure. The WJ is the red-headed stepchild of the solid-axle Jeep family. That said, Iron Rock Offroad and Clayton both make about everything you could need/want suspension-wise. Trail Forged also has a really nice front/rear long-arm kit with a full-bell skid/arm mount that I really like. You can find sliders, bumpers, all that kind of stuff too. When it comes to aftermarket axles it's a little tougher, East Coast Gear Supply seems to be the only bolt-in option. Unless the trails your buddies run are super hardcore a WJ on a 4" front/rear long-arm lift with enough trimming to run 33"s will do a great job. I was seriously shocked how easy the grey one did everything I asked and flexed with just a front long-arm and 31.6" tires. BTW... we might be selling that blue '04 Overland (4.7 HO). I have a line on a clean green '03 that needs some minor work (setting a check engine light for Evap, it's almost always just the rubber lines between the canister and tank at the back left... $0.40 and a few hour type fix but the seller can't smog it so they're getting desperate). I might pick that up as a flipper. I have issues. -TJ
  12. I love that platform. So multi-purpose. You can set them up to run the desert fast, but also crawl well with good articulation and 35"s or 37"s without going too high for the fast stuff. They are def on my list of "if I had a zillion dollars and could build every platform I really dig" cars (errr, trucks). Even though I'm a Chevy/LS guy I would do a boosted Coyote in one. -TJ
  13. Yeah, I don't dig the snorkel thing. When I lived in Australia and New Zealand urrrrrrrrybody had them. For the longest time I assumed they were primarily for deep water crossings, but when I would inspect the vehicles nothing else was prepped for deep-water (axle, trans, t-case breathers not relocated high, nothing done for water-proofing under-hood etc.). I finally asked a few people about them, and lots of guys claimed it was for dust, not water. I guess the idea is to pull cleaner air up high. I don't see it though, if you're not the 1st rig the dust seems to disperse pretty evenly and hang up high too. If you're the 1st rig you have clean air anyway. Honestly, I think it's mostly just a looks thing. As for calling it "Overlanding", yeah that's the current buzz word. Like I said before, if you go on Jeep and 4x4 forums you'll find dozens of threads with hundreds of posts each arguing about what "Overlanding" is... or isn't. Honestly, it's just what always called "car camping" when I was younger and was into backpacking with my Pops. You just happen to be in a slightly more capable "car" and you can get a little further on a little tougher trails. To me, the idea is to get to more remote beautiful places that most people can't/won't go to. Yeah... lots of Jeepers here. It's funny, because most of us also have SxSs and/or rails. We all know SxSs are better at 99% of the stuff we'll end up doing with our Jeeps, but there's something about being able to drive to the trail, run the trail, camp, and drive back. I know a pretty big group that does lots of "Overlanding" out of their RZRs and I was really close to just building a 4-seat RZR with rear-seat-deletes, roof-rack, etc. to "Overland." At the end of the day though, that still means taking the tow-rig and trailer somewhere, finding a safe place that you can leave the truck/trailer that's within the OHV boundaries is a PITA here in Cali... and it's just a more complicated thing - too much BS for me for single night trips. Sarcasm? I hate a lot of WJ bumpers because they look like this to me: Also I prefer something that doesn't put the winch up in front of the cooling stack like that. Yeah, at my current height no need for the pitman. I do want to do all the stiffiner stuff and gussets and blah blah before I start really beating on this thing... it's a very clean, straight, rattle-free Uni right now. I want to address the weak areas before I turn it into a mushy rattle-box. -TJ
  14. My buddy JUST bought the Heep you're describing. I think it's a '15 so the newer motor and interior, ~40k miles, super clean, Rubicon Express 3.5" lift with 35"s. Nice bumpers. Real Rigid bar and pods. Dude that had it didn't cut corners, but also didn't wheel it. I think he paid $27k. Does make me go hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm before I sink too much into a WJ. -TJ
  15. Man, maybe you should buy my other one. We bought a '04 Overland for Melissa to use for her business, but our tax lady is telling us we need write-offs and a business car lease is a good one. IDK, she really likes it, and it's good for what she does other than MPG isn't amazing. But we sort of kicked-around the idea. It has a fresh motor, fresh rad, fresh brakes, and lots of other new parts. It does have a front seal leak I'm fixing this weekend. It's a '04 Overland (so, fully loaded) and it already has the 2" budget-boost and these tires are brand-new, but they're snow tires. It'd fit a nice 30 (whatever the metric ones is that comes out around 30.5, I think it's 245/75-16 that folks like to run on the budget boost... these factory wheels are 17" though and have all the bling-blang). Rockwood, yeah, something rattle-can like that will be the way to go. The flares will for sure be getting scuffed up, so easy touch-ups are key. Also, that bumper looks nice. This is the one I've been considering so far: I'd love to copy that whole Heep... 60s and 37"s and all. That's a Trail Forged front, and they're semi-local to me. Their rear bumper tucks up super high too: You can see that one has been tank-tucked vs. this pre-tank-tuck: You can see how low the tank and spare-tub hang. Gotta change that up fer sho. There's also another local guy that used to work at Trail Forged that does some really nice WJ stuff... but like most ppl running small shops it seems like there might be a "story." He was on his own, then went to TF, now on his own again, and is sort of "in between shop locations" and stuff. Hmmmmm. Sucks, cuz his rear bumper looks super clean: And just for funsies... here are a few random WJs on 35"s: -TJ

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