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hybridtoys

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About hybridtoys

  • Rank
    Sand Soldier
  • Birthday 02/26/1978

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    hybridtoys@hotmail.com
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  • Location
    Salem, Oregon

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    horsefalls oregon
  • Your Ride
    cbr 600 powered TRX 250R, Johnson sand car 20-20

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  1. Ok, so I finally had time to get stuff apart cleaned and then remeasured. I was using a harbor freight caliper so I just took a bunch of measuements and wrote them down because its not the greatest tool. I think with a better race prep the clicking will mellow out... I am however worried about the burrs caused by trying to get it on the axle.. I can file it a bit more, but its kinda concerning. I took the one I had to replace mid trip last year, (no race prep).... then the super old one that had a little click (no surprise looking at its condition).... and lastly the new ones (I'm working on a little better race prep) I measured the 1:Inner star inside (star to axle surface -inside spline-) 2: Axle -outer spline- (axle to star surface) 3: Ball diameter (last measurement was in usa not mm) So from this sort of rudimentary set up.. is anything out of the ordinary? Or special? Undersized or..? I will do my best to measure my axle twist next.. might be a tough though..
  2. Yea, i never had any problems other than a quiet little click on the left side axle... I dont drive it like I stoll it but I have done plenty of racing and hard playing. I've never had a problem with axle fitment amd new parts untill now. I'll go ahead and pull them apart again and fully clean them up. Snap pics of both new and used parts... i really dont want to buy a whole complete axle CV set up when all this started with a soft ckicking... I also agree, if I was fully racing I would have the calipers out and would be blueprinting each CV. I like the idea of the .001 or .002 smaller balls.. wonder if thats what was previously in it. I'll get it all broke down and measured up. I have a new job and finally I can start going again, I haven't been able to go in 2 years! Even still I'm only going to get 2 or 3 trips in now it late in the year. My biggest worry is why the inner star so tight against the axle? It cut the star when I stupidly used a mallet to get it on.. (I had a real F-it I'm going! ) momentary lapse of judgment I'll admit... My old CVs slid right off, clearly there was some wear but these new ones are so tight there all burred up and stuper stiff when slidinguo and down the axle with or without grease. I thought it was crud in the splines but i pulled them apart and super cleaned them up and its clearly some fitments issue..? Could these axles be something special or odd? As far as i knew all this stuff just slides together (just like it always has) and now I'm looking at new axles. I'm actually ready to just use the old beat up center stars and put them in the new joints just so I can use the damn thin ;'( its a very expensive shelf at this point... Side note I really appreciate everyone's input ✌
  3. OK well, I decided to buy another CV because I was tired of messing with it. When I pick up the other CV he mentioned I should race prep it.. I did that a little when I got it.. but this time I really went for it on both new ones.. they freed up a little but still binds a bit... The more more important issue is the New CV's were a super tight fit to the Axle now, I needed a rubber mallet to get them to go on. I didnt (beat the hell out of it), but it took some time plus it was tight the whole way of the axle threads. When I was trying to get it to slide back off the Axle I noticed the Axle seems to have cut the Inside star.. I totally dont get whats going on with this friken thing... Its on my last nerve, and I dont think it needs axles.. I dont get what the issue is?!?! Is this some kind of special, or custom cut axle? I noticed, on my old ones (they slid right off, tight but easily movable -regular wear-). The new CV center stars teeth (Teeth to axle fit) were a bit different. they have A slightly deeper V shaped stlye.. I had to file the end of the axle just a bit to get it to bite. All I know is ...Im super over it.... I've missed 2 trips trying to fix a stupid faint axle click from last year thinking it would be just a simple CV swap... now I've burned 400$ on BS new parts... & I'm getting to the point of just bolting it together and saying F-it send it till it breaks... Do I have a bad set up here or??? what? First pic is of the Old CV.. Then the close up of the CV and the burr created by my stupidity of driving the new one on there because I was trying to go... Then the CV joint now raced prepped.. I snapped a pic of the CV slid almost off the axle, you can see the Burr on the Center star... What am I missing about this assembly? Last Pic..
  4. This is each end inside and outer, One side is easy and smooth the other one binds.... Is this normal? video-1565761352.mp4 video-1565761413.mp4
  5. Well, I looked it over and it looks correct, but the NEW cv isnt smooth like the other one... when I put it together I didnt think much of it because I thought it was tight because its was new... now im wondering if I just have a bad NEW CV.... ;( They look correct, big, ~> small, lip toward center of axle, big opening of the cages toward center of axle, The pics are of each CV in and out board...
  6. Wow that is a great article, Ill head over to the shop tomorrow, and double check. I'm excited to try it. Its kinda the last thing I need to fix, except the cosmetic stuff. thanks guys
  7. Hey all, I dont know what the hells going on or what I'm mising here... I Changed my outer CV and put a new CM cage in the old inbord side. I was very carefull to keep the Axle going the same direction. I cant seem to get the CV's to line up?!?! They are about 5* off, The Housing groves are going the correct way from what I remember. Im not sure what is going on, I took it for a test run and it was clicking super loud now, at all points of suspension articulation. I originally changed the CV because I thought I might have miss aligned the CV's the last time. When I was just cruising the access rd I could see the Axle pop up just a smidge up or (inboard) just a little as it clicked at about 5mph.... I thought changing the CV would do it and at the same time I could check the alignment. My old ones were pretty rough but good to keep as spares... Anyone have any thoughts? I will try to measure the actual angle in a day or so when I get back to the shop... I included just a couple of old pics when I mocked up the new brakes.. they are just sitting there but you can see the angle's sorta.
  8. I'm super surprised the (royal we) hasn't found her yet!?! Especially with those great pics.... not to mention random go pro footage around the area where she was supposedly camped?
  9. Yea this is a crazy situation with such good pictures.... As long as (we the public) find the right person... There has to be some fingerprints on it some where.. But dust will quickly fill the oil left by our hands AKA fingerprints... They would have had to work fast. So maybe a seatbelt clasp since it was probably down in the seat and protected from the dust and elements... I'm betting the cooler is the best source of usable fingerprints. BUT lets face it she will probably get a slap on the wrist.. and I'm betting some vigilante justice if shes recognized some where..
  10. Bet Dbart could hook you up with some cool designs if you posted some pics...
  11. Im glad im not the only one I who thought it was (preachy) ;/
  12. I think its kind of a ratio.... fluid pushed aka bore size and clutch arm travel.. which kind of translates to pedal travel and clutch fork pivot travel... I think
  13. I have a Northstar, so my water pump is in the back and runs off the cam, but the belt that makes noise is the flat serpentine n the front and only runs the Alt, I had a hunch that was it and when we got back I checked it and it had jumped a tooth off the pully, tightened it up and it was gone, it usually happened on a quick RPM drops
  14. Im looking at changing my bore size of my clutch master.... From what I know about hydraulics wouldnt that push the slave out further, if the master cyl is pushing more fluid wouldnt it push the slave out further? Im just looking for a lighter pedal, since im changing the master anyway why not go bigger.. just wondering.... Im running a 5/8 bore now..
  15. Well if your talking about the squeal at around 0:56 and 1:56 mark, mine does the same when I hit a bottom of a dune mid shift and the belt is a little loose. They stretch over time, and then squeal, its tight but just not tight enough when it comes to our RPM`s...

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