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About BillerOne

  • Rank
    Dune Master
  • Birthday 02/18/1983

Profile Information

  • Location
    San Diego

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    The desert
  • Your Ride
    1986 250R Fourtrax

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355 profile views
  1. Just out of curiosity does any other seal or o-ring go between the crankcase and the cylinder other than the base gasket on an 86 TRX70? Or between the cylinder and the head other than the head gasket? Like any of these?
  2. So I'm ready to put on my new cylinder. The oil return journal/passage that goes through the cylinder and into the head (I'm assuming it's oil return) is recessed a little bit on both the crank case and the top cylinder. It appears as if my old cylinder had a seal there that fit into the recess (between the cylinder and the head). But I can't recall a seal between the cylinder and the crankcase. Is the base gasket enough to seal that oil passage or is there supposed to be a rubber seal that goes in that recess on the crank case. (The gasket has a large enough hole in it to allow rubber o-ring. The manual also calls for o-ring seals and alignment dowels. but says their position varies by model/year so it's not specific on which seal goes where.) The same goes for the head gasket. Is there a rubber o-ring that goes in the recess on the cylinder along with the head gasket? Or is just the head gasket alone enough to seal that oil passage? Furthermore, the head gasket has 3 smaller holes for the head studs, and one larger hole for one head stud. Does this take a an o-ring? I'm aware that the oil delivery is through the cylinder into the head through the head stud passage/passages. (looks like 2 of them). I got a cheap top end gasket kit but am having trouble figuring out where the o-rings all go. It came with 1 small o-ring, 2 medium o-rings, 1 small (green) o-ring, 2 larger and taller o-rings, 2 small plastic (green) o-rings that are tapered and have a bit of a flange on one side, and 2 XL o-rings (valve caps). I'm usually pretty careful about taking stuff apart and notating where all the seals go. So either there weren't o-ring seals between the cylinder/crankcase/head, or I had too many Coors Lights that day and missed it....anything is possible. HELP!!! Thanks for the advice.
  3. Oh, I mis-read your post. Where are you located? And how much do you want for it?
  4. I appreciate it but I’m just gonna slap a piston and cylinder on this thing and send it. Besides it’s my daughters bike. Not sure she’s ready for a 125.
  5. I sent the doc an email. Wanna make sure I get the right stuff. Thanks for the help.
  6. I have a 86 TRX70 that needs a new cylinder and piston. Ordered a cheap one on eBay and the piston was shorter and the wrist pin hole was a lot higher toward the top of the piston near the oil scraper. My stock piston is much longer and has the wrist pin hole about 6mm lower on the piston. Any help pointing me toward a cylinder and piston that won’t cost an arm and a leg would be helpful. I can’t find any distinction in parts online. They all say they fit my year and model but in every picture it’s the same piston. The bore is just shy of 47mm. Don’t know the stroke. Stock head. Sorry, didn’t get a picture of the aftermarket piston. Thanks for for any help.
  7. I really like your grase gun. Pretty clever for adding grease while on the car. But I have one question. How do you know how much grease you're putting in each side? General rule of thumb is one tube per axle. Just curious if you have a way of measuring.
  8. All cars are different depending on the angle of the CV, the amount of power you put through them, if you have limit straps or not, ect, ect. But the grease will break down eventually. More so on CV's because of the amount of movement you get out of them, combined with the radical angle they are run at on sand cars. Plus you don't want to fill the boot up, just put enough in so the cage and balls and splines are covered. Over time, as the grease breaks down and becomes thin, it will start to spread out and fill the boot. You can add more grease and keep going, but it's always a good idea to take them apart, clean out all the old grease and refill with new grease at the very least, every season. If you jack the car up where the suspension is at full droop, and grab the axle shaft, you should still have movement of the axle in and out of the CV's. If not, then you'll eat CV's every other trip. I am coming out with a new tool that makes assembly and packing of your CV a job you can do in white gloves with one hand. Makes it way easier to install on car, grease in the dunes while on the car, and elimitates the need for three hands to keep the cages and boots from falling apart while trying to install it. And since everything stays together, there is no mess when you're done. Check out my website, www.sandiegorideconcepts.com. They'll be on there soon. And I have Limit strap mounts too if you're running into a problem with CV bind.
  9. What size tubing do they fit? Right now, they fit your standard 1 1/2" tubing. Sizes from 1" to 2" coming soon.
  10. Comes with a Nylon Insullation Buffer so it wont scratch powder coat.
  11. Got these for sale. $48.00 each. Have them in Silver Vein finish. They eliminated our limit strap issue, and a bunch of others, too. I got clamps for all sorts of stuff. Check out my website. www.sandiegorideconcepts.com. Ryan
  12. Sorry Crusty, I completly drew a blank on what kind of truck you drive. I think I told you before, you can use your bed mount bolts for a spare tire mount (Ford only) if you A: didn't want to drill holes in your bed to mount tubing to your frame, B: didn't want to weld to your bed (or frame for that matter), and C: wanted to remove your spare tire mount to put a bike or something big in the bed of your truck. P.S. I jumped on my roomates azz about running 220 in my garage, and might have some more info on fabbing for you next week. I'll let you know how that goes, and then maybe we can fab a tire mount fer ya.
  13. God, if only I had a bender? Good job, I like it.
  14. Cut out my cat and muffler on my 7.3 and noticed a increase in performance. My EGT's were cooler. I really can't hear mine inside the truck unless I stomp on it. Can't hear it at all on the highway unless I stomp on it. I don't have an exhaust system, just the stock 3.5" all the way through. But I'm young, dumb, and full of cum, so I enjoy standing by the back of my truck when I warm it up in the morning, just to hear it. P.S. You really want to hear your exhause, and engine???? Take the carpet out of your truck and drive around. Oh yea, baby.
  15. I second that one. How much for a pillar mount EGT, turbo install? $150. You have to let me know what color interior your truck is, and get me the pod a day or so in advance so I can paint it. The paint may not be an exact match, but it'll be pretty damn close, and as I found in my truck, it actually looks kinda cool with a bit of a two tone look. I have the tan interior. Same for you WaPa.

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