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Kansas T

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About Kansas T

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    Newton, KS

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  1. Kansas T

    2006 SU Mini Rail Reduced -Time to Go $6.500

    I'd buy it if I could fit. I don't think the price is out of line at all.
  2. Kansas T

    How much power are you running through your 2d?

    428 hp at the wheels from my LS1. I put the buggy together in 2013 with a slightly smaller cam and switched to a larger one in 2018. The trans has been apart twice to fix shift fork damage caused by the AJ Speed Shifter. No gears have been replaced and I've had no more trouble since I switched to a PBS shifter. I don't beat the car up through the whoops, but I do launch the car from 6000+ rpm when drag racing. Its a 2000lbs mid engine buggy on 33 inch paddles. Another buggy in our group put over 470hp to the wheels. He broke the 2d case and reverse gear after getting stuck a few years ago. His buggy weighs 2800lbs and he hasn't had any other gear issues.
  3. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    I was looking at the Fox valving specs, and they don't list the 1.75 or1.8 shim for the rebound side of the 2.5" shock. That would be why I don't have it in my shocks.
  4. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    There is a way and it really wouldn't be that hard, but I'm not going to do it to this car. I don't want to invest that much more into a buggy that I'm already planning on selling in a few years. My daughter will be old enough to start riding along soon, so I need to build a 4 seater.
  5. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    The ride height is good, but there's no preload to get it there. I added the bump stops last summer and I haven't noticed them helping anything on the rear. The fronts do make a difference. The last trip I raised the rear pressure to 280psi, but I still never noticed them hit. I think that the valving is so far off on the compression side, that I'm blowing through the shock and bump so quickly that they're of no use. I'll bleed off the pressure and start over with them after I get the shock valving closer.
  6. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    Thanks for your suggestion. I ordered a pair of 200 springs for the top, so we'll see what that does for the ride height and preload. I've gotten several suggestion for rebound shimming very close to that, so I'll get it in there and see how it reacts.
  7. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    All the measurements I've given have all been with the 300/300 springs. I ran the heavier springs several years ago when I originally assembled the buggy, but they are no longer installed. Yes, the 1.75 shim is missing. I'll be sure to get it back in there.
  8. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    The front weights were 400 per tire. Theses weights were with two passengers. Both weighed about 210-220. Total weight is 2300, give or take a few lbs. What makes you think 750 is a stretch? High or low?
  9. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    Free length, the lower spring is 16" and the upper is 14". Length at ride height, the lower spring is 13.75 and the upper spring is 11.5. There is no preloading of the springs. I installed them and ran the collars down until they touched the spring. I'll keep the flutter info in mind, after I get the springs right. With as tore up as our dunes get, I probably want as much movement as I can get. I have ran a full stack of .012 in the rear before, but that was with no flutter and the original 350/500 springs. I'll have to try it again and see what happens. Before I put this rebound valving in the car, it had a really bad buck in the rear. Small jumps or even cresting a dune would send the rear high nearly endo the car. This valving mostly cured that problem, so I haven't questioned it until now. I'm not questioning your statement ("That progressive stack is of no use in a coil sprung car"), but I would like to understand why? I really don't was the rear rebound "springy" again.
  10. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    I made that mistake originally. I have since recalculated, subtracting the unsprung weight, and the springs still appear to stiff. The steel wheels actually have 35s on them, but I only use them for running around on country roads. The sand tire setup is my only concern.
  11. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    Here's some pics. The front of the buggy is torn apart, so I can't get it out of the trailer to get current side shots. It sets pretty close to the same as this picture. The last pic is what the current valving in the rear is. For a little background on the valving. I tried multiple different settings shortly after the car was assembled and wasn't getting the desired results. After chatting with Ed (Pound Sand), he sent me some suggestions and this is where we ended up. The car drove 100% better than before, but tends to bottom easier on jumps than before. It really wasn't been an issue, but now I'm driving the car harder than I used to, so I need to address it. These are Fox 2.5 x 14 coilovers.
  12. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    I've measured several times, so I know they're all correct. If the calculators cant get me close, is it just trial and error to get where I need to be with the springs? That gets real expensive. Please explain "free bleed". I've got the valving written down at home, I can post that later.
  13. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    Ok, I'll get some pics tonight. It wasn't mine on a MX track, though I'd love to try that.
  14. Kansas T

    Spring rate and/or shock valving question

    The springs are 16 and 14 inches in length. As I understand it, two 300lb/in springs work out to 150lb/in when combined. Then when the crossover ring hits (its 3" away at rid height) it switches to the lower spring and back to 300lb/in. I can take some pics tonight, what do you want pics of? Its a single 2.5" Fox coilover per rear corner. They have external reservoirs.
  15. My buggy rides rough in rough sand, and bottoms out easier than I think it should when jumping. Our local dunes in Oklahoma get pretty tore up over a weekend, so I'm dealing with a lot of buggy and sxs ruts/tracks/chop. I can watch the front suspension move and it seems to absorb the rough stuff, but watching my side mirror, I can't see the rear suspension moving to absorb the roughness. When the back tires hit something, it shakes the whole car. I'll put the GoPro on it next trip to really see whats happening. Four corner scales say I've got 750lbs on each rear tire. I used the FOA spring rate calculator and came up with a recommend rate of 200lb/in. I used a 350/500 spring combo to get close to the recommended rate. The car set high in the rear with no preload and road really rough. I've swapped springs several times and am currently running a 300/300 spring combo. The ride height is at 33% droop with no preload. I calculated the effective coilover load (https://www.crawlpedia.com/coilover_springs.htm) today and came up with 637lbs on each rear spring. Based on that calculation I'm undersprung, but no preload to get the desired ride height means I'm oversprung, according to what I've read here in other threads. Based on what I've been reading, people recommend getting the correct springs first, then adjusting the valving. How do I know if my springs are correct?

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