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Sean@Weddle

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  1. Update: Talked to RJ momentarily about his dual brake pedal in the Pro2 truck which is not how I assumed it worked. Only runs rear brake or all 4 depending on what pedal is pushed. Turns out, all you need is a 410 spec motor and a light rear end to get the thing to turn. Whood a thunk it? He wouldn't let me drive it though. Even with the promise of a few beers on me after we got off the beach.
  2. It's got one of those too, but he doesn't use it much. Rear is spooled on both trucks, so no independent rear turning brake. RJ has is Pro2 up in Pismo now for the Rugged Radios grand opening, I'll be heading up there tomorrow and check it out a little closer for my own satisfaction. I'll see if I can talk him into letting me take it for a rip up and down the beach a few times as well so I can report back here and let you guys know if it works on the front. 🙃
  3. I could be wrong as it is not the truck I work on (I'm barely cool enough to only work on the Pro4 truck), but I think RJ Anderson's Pro2 truck has a dual brake pedal type design that allows him to bias front brake left and right. We don't use this on the Pro4 truck since the front diff he uses is essentially a spool. Obviously vastly different vehicles and weight transfers, may not work in a mid/rear engine buggy with all the weight at the rear.
  4. 1961 and later have all synchronized gears (except reverse). The early 60's units have an earlier style synchro that is obsolete, but can be converted to the later style with proper parts.
  5. These came on 1961-1967 buses. They are actually a Type 1 (Beetle) swingaxle transaxle with the reduction boxes at the hubs. The ring gear is flipped to the passenger side (as opposed to the driver side in every other transaxle) to correct the drive direction with the reduction gears at the hubs. Parts are getting hard to find for these. The transaxle parts are still somewhat common, but a lot more expensive than they used to be. Gone are the days of cheap VW parts as they are going obsolete.
  6. New thread posted with gear calculator instructions.
  7. https://weddleindustries.com/gear-calculator https://weddleindustries.com/sites/weddleindustries.com/files/downloads/Current Gear Availability 4-1-21.pdf There are a few ways to sort out what gear ratio will work for your specific application. Most trans builders tend to work with a "common" set of ratio's that they know most people are happy with when using common engines and power numbers, but you the individual can make some determinations on what might work for you car the way that you drive it and where it is mostly used. Most typical sand cars will never see more than 100
  8. Synthetic is ok for synchros, but it can depend on how any particular oil might be manufactured for a specific purpose. Many gear oils today are manufactured to work in truck/car diffs that have limited slip clutch packs in them. These often require an oil that is a little bit "slippery" so the clutch's don't grab and chatter when making tight turns in parking lots. Synchros don't like a slippery oil as they require a certain amount of friction with the gear to change the gear speed during the shift so the engagement teeth can slip in. This is why we also don't like oil that has "m
  9. This will be my last post in this thread. Jed, If that was the case, we would typically see larger chunks of material broken off of the other gears, as well as heavy impressions in the gear tooth face from the bits of broken gear that have been crushed between the gears. Pictures are attached showing a UTV gearbox currently here with this exact type of damage to the other gears from a gear failure. The UTV boxes are quite prone to this type of damage due to high gear being at the top of stack of gears, and all of the little bits and pieces fall through the lower gears resulting in th
  10. The Redline heavy shockproof can cause issues with synchronizers as the solid additives tend to build up between the synchronizer and gear, preventing the synchro from having enough friction on the gear to speed up or slow down the gear during a shift. This is when it feels like the shifter physically does not want to shift into a specific gear. This normally happens when trying to shift quickly. A slow slower shift might not have any issue. We have also recorded higher temps with the heavy shockproof, where the oil acts as a bit of a heat sink and holds heat rather than dissipates it lik
  11. This thread is like asking what everyones favorite beer is. I don't care what anyone's preferred oil is. Run whatever you want. Don't come complaining to me if you chose a different oil than we say to use and it doesn't work out. For what it's worth, there is lots of good oil out there, and only a few bad ones. I don't care for the Redline oil, and I'll probably catch attitude from Dave McDowell for saying that I now don't care for the Kendall oil based on recent issues I have had to deal with. Flame on.
  12. We supply this for every thing now. https://weddleindustries.com/products/9-MAX/9-MAX
  13. Torque jam nuts to 120 ft/lbs, then back off and retorque to 100 ft/lbs. Use brake/carb cleaner on threads before using red loctite. Note: You will need to lock trans shafts to torque nuts by engaging 2 gears at same time. This can done by removing the allen headed bolt from the fork for 5th gear and sliding the fork/slider into 5th gear without moving the shift rail. Then you can push any of the other shift rails below into a gear to lock the shafts.
  14. We have had previous issues with pump motors burning up when keyed on before the oil has warmed up and thinned out. Cold oil it harder to pull through the vacuum and tends to put more load on the motor compared to running the pump motor after the oil has thinned out with temp. Mechanical pumps will always be best (hence the HV-2 having a mechanical pump). The Albins is offered with a diff mounted mechanical pump, but add's a few 000's to the total cost. I have said it many times, we don't think there is a necessity to run a cooler on most recreational sand cars, as they do not run
  15. I can't say that most dyno sessions would ever cause this sort of issue. I think that most tuners will run a 5-10 minute warm up, then run a few full pulls to get data. During the time the tuner is making adjustments, the car would typically just be idling and the oil pulled into the diff housing will have a chance to refill the other chambers between pulls. Even if the trans is in gear while idling on the dyno, I don't think there would be enough "pull" from the ring gear to drain that much oil from the gear chamber. Plus, the gears would not be under any real load as they just rotate with th

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