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About Quicksand

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  1. Here is a pic of mine. Flexible line from the turn brake with enough slack at the pivot for it to not be tight at full droop.
  2. Not quite sure I'm answering what you are asking but I'll take a shot at it. There should be a 1/8" NPT inlet on the inboard side in the middle of the caliper. There is likely a sticker over it to prevent debris from entering before installation. Assuming you use -3 lines, use a 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter to convert the NPT to the soft or hard line you are connecting. If there are interference issues with using the caliper side inlet then you could cap that inlet and use the bottom inboard bleeder port to connect your brake line (use the bottom port so you can still bleed the air out of the caliper at the top). The bleeder ports should also be 1/8" NPT when you remove the brass adapter containing the bleeder screw. Use a good thread sealant on the adapters (I was told Loctite 565). Also, be careful not to overtighten steel NPT adapters into aluminum parts when trying to get an angled adapter pointed in the right direction. A company like AN Plumbing has the adapters you will need and you can order custom length flexible brake lines. Edited to add: Found my old brake line questions thread (Brake Line Plumbing Drawings). The first post has images of my proposed plumbing diagram. I ended up using all braided stainless lines which eliminated the bulkhead fittings at the arms.
  3. Yes, both pistons are being pushed on the master cylinder. I pumped the pedal a few times as LRS suggested and did notice that the pads moved out to the rotor. Once the weather warms up a little, I'll put my daughter in the car and have her operate the pedal while I bleed the brakes the old fashioned way. Thanks
  4. I filled the master cylinders on my CNC 224 Reverse Swing Dual Reservoir brake pedal assembly today for the first time and then bled the brakes with a pressure bleeder. Each of the inner and outer bleed screws (in that order) were opened until the brake fluid ran clear. Once bled, I depressed the brake pedal but the brake pads do not move. I can see fluid squirting up into the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. There are no leaks anywhere in the lines. I am looking at the front pads when I depress the pedal so there are no turn brakes in those lines. This brake assembly has never been used but was purchased for the build probably 10 years ago. Do you think the seals are bad from sitting around? I read other master cylinder rebuild threads on gd.com where somebody said the cylinders had to be honed when rebuilding them? Is this necessary on new master cylinders? Other possibilities for no brakes? Thanks
  5. A new MT 33" Baja Pro on a Douglas 15" beadlock was 54.2 pounds when I weighed mine for spring calculations. I wasn't able to weigh them separately as they were shipped mounted.
  6. www.tensortire.com is the manufacturer's website. Kartek sells them. As I recall, the DS comes in a 35 and the Regulator A/T you can get in a 32. I looked at them when I was buying some rear dirt tires but ended up going with All Terrain T/As instead.
  7. Thanks Schmidty. I installed the rear springs and the rear ride height is as expected. The front settled about 1" after moving it but is still about 3" higher than designed. I'll run it next spring and hopefully it settles some more. A couple of people in the front seats will also compress the suspension some more. Somebody in another thread said pushing on the front end should cause the front suspension to compress 5-7". Is this accurate in general or just one person's setup? My front suspension only compresses 1-2" when I put all of my weight on it.
  8. The 4” and 8" numbers are related to ride height change (20 inches overall) which would correspond to the 2.4” and 4.8" of shock length change (12" overall) respectively. I think I used 4.8" when referring to shock length change but I'll recheck.
  9. Well, I would have to consider my first attempt at springs to be a big failure. As indicated above for the front, I purchased 175/275 for a combined spring rate of 107 which is about 10% over what the FOA spring rate calculator indicated (96). The top spring (175) is 12" and the bottom spring (275) is 14" in length. After installing the springs today, the ride height is 4" higher than designed. I was planning for 40% droop (8") but these springs are only resulting in 20% droop (~4"). The shock is a Fox 12" coilover and the coil adjuster/preload nut is 1/4" from the top of the threads (just tight enough to snug up the springs with zero preload). If my understanding is correct, since the shock has a 31" extended length and it currently measures 29", the springs are reacting to 2in x 107 lb/in = 214 lbs sprung weight instead of the 265 lb corner sprung weight that I used in the spring calculator. Using this calculation of 214 lbs, to get 4.8" of shock/spring compression (40% of 12") would require a spring rate of about 45 (214/4.8 ) which doesn't seem right either. I verified the dimensions used in the calculator to be correct. I'm hoping someone might have some insight and recommendations. Thanks
  10. I'm not aware of any transaxle shops in the Salt Lake area. I ordered my Mendeola out of Arizona when I bought it. I'd also be interested to hear if anybody knows of one in the area. Most of the parts that I purchased for my build were from out of state. However, I recently found a shop called Midnight 4x4 in SLC that has a lot of fabrication parts for Rock Crawlers, desert racing, and buggies. They recently rebuilt a Fox shock for me and I just purchased my Eibach springs from them.
  11. I made a bracket that bolts into existing, unused holes in the riser and routed mine under the intake manifold. After determining the pedal throw I then cut a piece of steel and welded it to the where the factory throttle cable would connect. That piece also has a small hole at the top to attach another throttle return spring.
  12. Given the available spring rates, I'm thinking the following: Front: 275/175 (Primary Spring Rate - 107) Rear: 450/300 (Primary Spring Rate - 180) I have Fox 12" 2.0 coil-overs in front and Fox 16" 2.5 coil-overs in rear. I can't seem to find much on determining coil lengths. Do you just buy equal length Main and Tender Springs each being equal to the stroke of the shock? Longer Main and shorter Tender?
  13. Using the FOA calculator and subtracting 100lbs for un-sprung weight gives the following. Seem reasonable? Front: Total Wheel travel (in): 20 Sprung Weight (lb): 265 Distance 1: (in): 16 Distance 2: (in): 27.375 Droop %: 40 Spring Angle (deg): 0 Calculated Spring Rates: Individual Spring Rates (lb/in): Main - 240, Tender - 160 Primary Spring Rate (lb/in): 96 Adding 10% results in Main - 265, Tender - 175 (Primary Spring Rate - 100) Rear: Total Wheel travel (in): 20 Sprung Weight (lb): 700 Distance 1: (in): 19 Distance 2: (in): 26 Droop %: 40 Spring Angle (deg): 0 Calculated Spring Rates: Individual Spring Rates (lb/in): Main - 413, Tender - 275 Primary Spring Rate (lb/in): 165 Adding 10% results in Main - 450, Tender - 300 (Primary Spring Rate - 180)
  14. Schmidty and Rockwood - When I indicated 800 pounds I was referring to the rear corner weight that I would use for calculating the spring rates using a calculator like on Eibach or F-O-A. Were you thinking the 800 pounds was the planned spring rate or did I misunderstand your posts? On another note, what are considered the "better" springs nowadays? I have a local source for Eibach. I was hoping for black springs but Eibach only come in silver or red. I'll post the spring rates once I calculate them to see if they seem reasonable. Thanks for your input!

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