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Quicksand

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About Quicksand

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  1. Quicksand

    Honda 3.5

    Here is a thread from years ago. https://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?/forums/topic/92285-honda-guys/
  2. Me too. I just could not remember where I had seen it before.
  3. No disrespect intended. You posted before I finished editing my post.
  4. A Cessna 150 also weighs less than 1000 lbs. Jonesin's car probably weighs 2x that. Yes, I'm joking around too. 13 years ago socaldmax gave me the same advice to just buy a name brand roller chassis instead of building from scratch. I chose to build my own from scratch (Gasp!) and have no regrets. Safety has always been top priority for me. I plan to take it on it's maiden voyage this Saturday. I have asked many questions on this forum and received advice from many members including socal. Keep asking and those with the heart of a teacher will respond and try to help. Concerns expressed by big_daddy_jp and socaldmax are valid viewpoints as they speak from experience and safety should always be a concern.
  5. I got all of my brake and fuel line fittings and hoses at AN Plumbing. This is what I did for My Fuel Line Plumbing and this is what I did for My Brake Line Plumbing (I ended up using flexible braided stainless brake lines throughout - no hard lines). Fuel lines were a mix of -6, -8, and-10 AN and brake lines were all -3 AN. Edited to add: Sandkist already noted this, but I also got my throttle cable at Control Cables.
  6. A clutch stop is a physical barrier, typically fabricated at the clutch pedal, to prevent the pedal from being depressed too far. This thread has some examples:
  7. Here is a pic of mine. Flexible line from the turn brake with enough slack at the pivot for it to not be tight at full droop.
  8. Not quite sure I'm answering what you are asking but I'll take a shot at it. There should be a 1/8" NPT inlet on the inboard side in the middle of the caliper. There is likely a sticker over it to prevent debris from entering before installation. Assuming you use -3 lines, use a 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter to convert the NPT to the soft or hard line you are connecting. If there are interference issues with using the caliper side inlet then you could cap that inlet and use the bottom inboard bleeder port to connect your brake line (use the bottom port so you can still bleed the air out of the caliper at the top). The bleeder ports should also be 1/8" NPT when you remove the brass adapter containing the bleeder screw. Use a good thread sealant on the adapters (I was told Loctite 565). Also, be careful not to overtighten steel NPT adapters into aluminum parts when trying to get an angled adapter pointed in the right direction. A company like AN Plumbing has the adapters you will need and you can order custom length flexible brake lines. Edited to add: Found my old brake line questions thread (Brake Line Plumbing Drawings). The first post has images of my proposed plumbing diagram. I ended up using all braided stainless lines which eliminated the bulkhead fittings at the arms.
  9. Yes, both pistons are being pushed on the master cylinder. I pumped the pedal a few times as LRS suggested and did notice that the pads moved out to the rotor. Once the weather warms up a little, I'll put my daughter in the car and have her operate the pedal while I bleed the brakes the old fashioned way. Thanks
  10. I filled the master cylinders on my CNC 224 Reverse Swing Dual Reservoir brake pedal assembly today for the first time and then bled the brakes with a pressure bleeder. Each of the inner and outer bleed screws (in that order) were opened until the brake fluid ran clear. Once bled, I depressed the brake pedal but the brake pads do not move. I can see fluid squirting up into the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. There are no leaks anywhere in the lines. I am looking at the front pads when I depress the pedal so there are no turn brakes in those lines. This brake assembly has never been used but was purchased for the build probably 10 years ago. Do you think the seals are bad from sitting around? I read other master cylinder rebuild threads on gd.com where somebody said the cylinders had to be honed when rebuilding them? Is this necessary on new master cylinders? Other possibilities for no brakes? Thanks
  11. A new MT 33" Baja Pro on a Douglas 15" beadlock was 54.2 pounds when I weighed mine for spring calculations. I wasn't able to weigh them separately as they were shipped mounted.
  12. www.tensortire.com is the manufacturer's website. Kartek sells them. As I recall, the DS comes in a 35 and the Regulator A/T you can get in a 32. I looked at them when I was buying some rear dirt tires but ended up going with All Terrain T/As instead.
  13. Thanks Schmidty. I installed the rear springs and the rear ride height is as expected. The front settled about 1" after moving it but is still about 3" higher than designed. I'll run it next spring and hopefully it settles some more. A couple of people in the front seats will also compress the suspension some more. Somebody in another thread said pushing on the front end should cause the front suspension to compress 5-7". Is this accurate in general or just one person's setup? My front suspension only compresses 1-2" when I put all of my weight on it.
  14. The 4” and 8" numbers are related to ride height change (20 inches overall) which would correspond to the 2.4” and 4.8" of shock length change (12" overall) respectively. I think I used 4.8" when referring to shock length change but I'll recheck.
  15. Well, I would have to consider my first attempt at springs to be a big failure. As indicated above for the front, I purchased 175/275 for a combined spring rate of 107 which is about 10% over what the FOA spring rate calculator indicated (96). The top spring (175) is 12" and the bottom spring (275) is 14" in length. After installing the springs today, the ride height is 4" higher than designed. I was planning for 40% droop (8") but these springs are only resulting in 20% droop (~4"). The shock is a Fox 12" coilover and the coil adjuster/preload nut is 1/4" from the top of the threads (just tight enough to snug up the springs with zero preload). If my understanding is correct, since the shock has a 31" extended length and it currently measures 29", the springs are reacting to 2in x 107 lb/in = 214 lbs sprung weight instead of the 265 lb corner sprung weight that I used in the spring calculator. Using this calculation of 214 lbs, to get 4.8" of shock/spring compression (40% of 12") would require a spring rate of about 45 (214/4.8 ) which doesn't seem right either. I verified the dimensions used in the calculator to be correct. I'm hoping someone might have some insight and recommendations. Thanks

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