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yoshi last won the day on October 4 2017

yoshi had the most liked content!

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About yoshi

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    "Brotherhood of the Slap"
  • Birthday 01/28/1978

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  • Location
    B.A. Oklahoma

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  1. We're good. Rachel is fine. You can flip though my facebook a little if you wanna see what i've been up to. Link is in my sig....
  2. My spindles are just welded up plate. To whoever buys a frame kit, I can either build a set of spindles or include the plasma cut plates for the spindles for a little extra.
  3. In house design that doesn't use a spindle snout. The front uprights use the same bearing carriers, calipers and rotors as the rear.......
  4. A few years I ago was setting up to build SXS cages but have since gone another route. What i’m selling now is the fixture and a copy of the solidworks cad files for the fixture, as well as copies of laser scanned files I created for the factory 4 seat and 2 seat rzr cage. The 4 seat RZR scan includes the front/rear bumper mount locations. The CAD files will allow you to design other cages in the computer to fit in the fixture before building. The jig was designed with bolt on parts so other cages could be built as well. I am also including the metal plug I made from the rzr that was used to build the fixture so other jigs could be built off the plug if needed. I also have a bunch of lower rear cage mounts I designed/built, some rear shock resi mounts and am also including a lot of small door tube mounts I had built. I can provide files to reproduce the rear mounts if you want them. I’m selling everything listed above for $5,900. I also have some scans and other stuff available for the X3 for additional cost. 918-521-3736….
  5. I only have one customer that did the LS setup, which was a rear engine and he loves it.
  6. I have a few SXR frames in stock I wouldn't mind getting out of my shop. They include front a-arms, rear trailing arms and full aluminum work WITHOUT side panels. This chassis was designed around a mid engine LS3 but most of the cars built had hayabusa engines. Rear engines setups will also work. 112" wheelbase, 92" wide with paddles. Originally sold for over $12k. Selling for $4,500 each. May consider trade if at least $8k in value is offered. 918-521-3736
  7. You can use a saw, but you are more likely to have a crooked line and if the blade bites too much you will have an edge that is no longer flat and also more likely to pop the powdercoat. I prefer the 3" cutoff wheel for small openings, 6" for bigger stuff because after the wheel gets a little into the surface, it stays fairly straight along the line. I also like to start in the middle of the line so you can sneak up on the corners and not mess up your drilled corner radius. The smaller diameter the cutoff wheel or the saw blade, the more potential for wavy cuts. You're cutting thin aluminum so it should go pretty quick with a basic compressor, but would be nice if you or a buddy has a bigger compressor. I would get the thinnest cutoff wheel you can. I run really thin cut off wheels in my shop, they don't last as long but they are applying the full spinning power to less material so they cut faster.
  8. Tape it, drill 4 pilot holes for the corners, use a unibit to open the hole up so the edges are clean with nice corner radius, mark a line from the edges of the holes to one another, use a small slitter wheel to cut out the blank, use a flat file to debur the edges. Try not to just lay into it with the cutoff wheel as the heat will pop the powdercoat back. Keep a bucket with some water and a rag to cool down between cuts. Keep cut time short, don't try to get through a whole line in one go. If you want to be extra careful and don't mind the mess, just run a hose with constant water (doesn't need to be tons of water either) while you're cutting with the slitter. I'm would recommend an air slitter apposed to an electric setup. You could plastic wrap anything you don't want to get wet and tape it up...
  9. Still working out some of the details as well as designing the fixtures....
  10. Dash renderings for the new M6 sandrail design. The hood lines carry over exactly to the top dash lines.
  11. Thank ya much! I've always liked the sharp lines (initial inspiration for my sandrail was a fighter jet) and the flat glass ties in with it. I modeled up with different curved glass designs, but they just didn't look right with the body lines....
  12. Right now I have 2 routes in mind. Route 1 is High end only with options limited to paint, interior and motor upgrades. With a $100k price tag for the motor/tranny, plus heat/ac and fully insulated interior panels, doors, glass, etc, that car is going to be very expensive and mainly geared toward the middle east market. Route 2 is a package platform similar to what I have been doing that has more options and will allow for a cheaper base model, maybe even a roller package. Pricing will obviously be more than my busa rails and only offered with automotive powerplants, but they will be within budget of more people for the US market. I could build a fairly decent priced car with full body work, automotive engine and a really good shock package if I go that route. I also have a street car version i've been working on that I have not decided if I should build first. It has a more chopped top and a shorter chassis, but does have 12" of travel for some offroad capabilities. I was going to keep it more simple and really just want to build it for myself.

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