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About MCR500

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    Clovis, near Fresburg

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  1. On my 04' SLC, the bottom switch in the master controls the light fixtures in the ceiling. The middle switch throws power to the reading lights on either side of the bed. Still have to push a button on the fixture to get them to come on. The top switch turns the stereo on and off. May want to give it a whirl!
  2. I put Eternabond tape on the front and rear caps of my 04 SLC about four years ago. Holding up great!!! One caution: Once you touch the roof with the tape, it WILL NOT come back up for re-alignment or whatever. This stuff sticks like no tomorrow!! Bought a 4" wide roll off Amazon for like $60 IIRC. Had enough to do my trailer and my buddies SLC. C-Ya!!
  3. Any FW with a GVWR over 10000# and up to 15000# , you need a Class C license, with an RV Endorsement 41 attached. Basically, you go down to the DMV and take the Class A written test, but no driving test and medical card required. If you have not renewed your Class C within the last year, you will have to pass that written test before you take the Class A test. I had to re-take my Class C AND my M1 before they would let me take the Class A written. Any tag with a GVWR of 10001# and above, or any FW with a GVWR of 15001# and above require a non commercial Class A, so you have to pass the Class A written, provide a medical card, and pass a driving skills test with said trailer in tow. I was very glad my 04' SLC had a GVWR of 15000#!!! I have never heard a license requirement based on number of axles. Hope this helps! C-Ya!!!
  4. I know you guys are RZR biased, but I still love my Cat!!!! And yes, if I wasn't so goddamn far in to this thing, the 1000 would be in my garage! No brand loyalty here!!! C-Ya!!!
  5. I did this exact same thing to my 04' SLC. Not too hard, after you get the bed out!!! Get 5 guys, trust me on this one. Obviously, take the mattress off before you start. Put 1 guy at each corner, and the 5th pops the struts off the ball sockets. IIRC, they have a little "pin" that you have to pull off before they come loose. Get ready!!!! When the second strut comes off, the bed is all yours!!! Lower it down, and pop the wheels out of the rear track. Now tilt the bed at a 45 degree angle, and walk it out the ramp door. Scribe a line 4" lower on the bedsides, remove metal "L" brackets, and re-attach. I went and bought 5/16" carriage bolts, and through bolted the bedsides back on. You may have to mod the metal "stop" a little on each side, to allow full travel up and down. Seems to me we did this. Install in reverse order. Takes a little bit of "persuasion" to get it back in and lined up. I purchased some aluminum tube, cross-drilled the ladder feet, and attached the extensions. My bed is now 75" off the floor. I LOVE being able to walk underneath without smacking my head, and don't have to air the Rhino down anymore. Hope this helps!! C-Ya!!!
  6. X2!!!!! I have ridden my 05' KTM EXC Supermoto to work a few times. It was fun, (only 6 miles each way) but all the frickin idiots out there aren't worth the savings in fuel! Hell, one grind that results in a trip to the hospital will eat 20 years of perceived fuel savings!!! Buy a cheap commuter car and stay safe(er)!!! FWIW!! C-Ya!!
  7. Got a link to product name or type? Need to do this to my SLC BAD!!! Thanks, Mike
  8. This is exactly what I did to my 04' SLC, but I didn't saw the bed shorter. I basically removed the bed from the FW, removed the metal brackets, and lowered them 6" down on the sides. I then removed the window valances, and moved them higher on the wall so they would clear. I can now drive my Rhino in without airing down the tires, and can walk under the bed without hitting my head anymore. Bottom of bed is now 76" off the floor. Cost $8 in new hardware, and a couple hours of time. Well worth the effort; airing down tires is a pain!!! C-Ya!!
  9. You do have access, it is just a pain to get to it. When I replaced my stereo head unit in my SLC, I had to carefully pry/remove the staples/finish nails that held the cabinet floor down. Once you remove all the nails, you have total access. My gas guage is just to the left of my stereo; pretty sure they are all the same. PS- Be prepared to get pissed off at the custom wiring job the WW employees did on the guage/stereo!!! C-Ya!!
  10. Pretty sure the fuses under the pinbox on the FW are for the trailer brakes only. All the light connections are fused through the trucks fuse box. C-Ya!!
  11. Did you use the 3M on the siding/windows/trim pieces??? Thanks.
  12. x2!!! 89K on my 05. Put a coolant filter on it, get the crap Ford Gold coolant out of there, switch to ELC( like IH BUILT the 6.0 with), ScanguageII to monitor vital EWT and EOT, drive the snot out of it often. No major probs. with my truck. Pulls my FW at 17K great!!! Leave it STOCK. FWIW. C-Ya!!
  13. Getting ready to do some roof/gelcoat siding sealing maintenance on the WW. I have already purchased the Eternabond tape, and Dicor sealant for the roof seams. I am having trouble determining what exactly is best for the vertical seams where the siding meets trim pieces/windows/utility openings. I have searched this great forum with limited success; lots of info on what to use on the roof though!!! So what is the preferred material for the vertical seams, that is resistant to UV, and will last. Name brands, and where to purchase would be of great help!!! Thanks in advance! C-Ya!! Mike
  14. x2. Have seen the fitting going in to the intake manifold get plugged with soot and stuff. Likes to mess up your boost strategy. CAREFULLY remove hose/fitting and clean them if you are having issues. C-Ya!!!

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