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fortyfour

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fortyfour last won the day on December 26 2019

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  1. You'd almost always need a new set of rods for a quality rebuild too. There's not much you can do to the big end of powdered metal fractured rods except check them for roundness, you can have the pin ends rebushed and honed for maybe $200 or so but you're still on the hook for a new set of rod bolts. After all that you'd be money ahead to just use a new set of Scat rods. So with basically a new rotating assy in an engine that still needs to be bored the rebuild just doesn't make dollars and cents to do. But again just my viewpoint for a cast iron stocker. Fwiw, we have used Jasper Engines at the dealer with good success and warranty support.
  2. It's way easier to just buy a crate engine. When I rebuilt the 6.0 in my buggy I sent the decent crank out for a polish and chamfer. When I assembled it the plastigauge was all over the place as far as clearances go, some of the journals had a full thou of taper. I ended up buying a brand new GM crank from Summit for less than $300 delivered to my doorstep. That crank had plastigauge measurements of .0015 on every journal. For a stocker that is only asked to drive an suv around I don't think it really matters that much. You can rebuild an LS on the cheap with Sealed Power pistons and rings and all of the other wearable parts with only wizzbanging the cylinders with a ball hone and then a couple of exchanged cylinder heads, it all depends how much the vehicle is worth and the owners tolerance for spending money on it. There are always more than one way to accomplish something. I'd still vote for a crate engine.
  3. I totally have no idea what can be turned off with a diesel tuner because I only deal with OEM stuff so this is more of an FYI for discussion more than anything...🤠 Of course all of this is moot to most diesel guys hell bent on deleting all of the emission components that keep them from enjoying life to it's fullest...😮 The DEF injector can be "turned off" without any loss of function from the DPF, they perform 2 completely different functions. The DEF reacts with and reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOX) in the selective catalyst (SCR) which is the front section of the DPF assembly but indeed a separate component. All the DPF does is capture the black soot from the exhaust. You could theoretically turn off the DEF and still keep the DPF functional. DEF is not used for anything other than reduction of NOX. During a regen DEF injection is inhibited. On the same note, if the front diesel catalyst is removed for performance reasons you must also remove the SCR/DPF. The front catalyst along with the indirect injector in the turbo downpipe is what generates the 1250f necessary to incinerate the soot from the DPF during a regen. Without a hot regen the DPF would quickly clog with soot and even if the engine wasn't forced into reduced power mode your performance would suffer to the point you couldn't drive it. A healthy exhaust will regen when the soot mass gets to about 30g, I've seen trucks come in with issues that cause them to not regen and the soot mass is like 100g. When they are finally repaired the regen takes over an hour to do and sometimes needs to be forced into a second regen to bring the soot mass down to zero. Effing trucks during a regen sounds like a jet engine running. It is actually not hard on the engine at all, it is just free spinning with no load, the heat is all generated in the catalyst by burning diesel fuel from the indirect injector. 🤓 The L5P diesels are intensely more complicated and are proving to be more reliable. As far as I know there's not much you can do to them tune-wise the ECMs are tough to unlock.
  4. Those reservoirs were on intergalactic backorder last winter, we had trucks sitting on our lot in reduced power for weeks waiting for their part to show up. not GM's fault completely, the supplier who makes them couldn't make them fast enough for whatever reason. The same supplier also makes nearly identical parts for Ford, not sure what Ram uses. The hardest part of the whole job is realizing you don't have a big enough pair of channel locks to get the lock ring off. lol We do a lot of the indirect injectors also, that will set a P0420 when it quits working, then your exhaust will never get hot enough during a regen and the soot mass will build up in the DPF and into reduced power you will go. The fuel line release on the injector is sometimes a sum-bitch to get it to release.
  5. P21DD is the most common problem we see with them, it is caused from high resistance in the Heater 1 circuit that results in low amp draw that the Glow Plug Module detects and sets the code. The reductant tank reservoir is the only part that needs to be replaced to correct this. It is fairly easy to drop the reductant tank and replace the reservoir. If the truck is already in reduced power you may have to use a Tech2 to run the Heater 1 test in the GPCM to clear it out. I have only ever replaced the whole reductant tank once or twice years ago when the reservoir kits were not available yet. The GM reductant system uses 3 heaters to prevent it from freezing. Heater 2 is part of the reductant pump and Heater 3 is in the supply line that goes to the injector. Sometimes we see issues with the reductant temp sensor that will read incorrectly but that is also corrected with a new reservoir. Better you have a P21DD rather than fluid quality codes like P207F P20EE or P2BAD. The reductant tanks for 2011 and 2012 were never covered under a Recall but rather by Special Policy 14652B that covered them for 10 years or 120,000 miles. Don't quote me on this because I'm not in front of my work PC but I believe the reservoir is covered by the 5/100 diesel warranty for all others.
  6. Broaden your search and also look for an 094. It is full size reverse and you can use Weddle's side shift adapter for easy linkage hookup. It puts the linkage hookup a few inches to the right, you would need to use a Sweet u-joint in the shift linkage a few feet from the trans due to the offset but no big deal. Bummer I sold my fully built 094 with new aluminum case and Weddle 4.86 r+p for $2800 a year or so ago...easily a $5k transaxle. As Sean said the bus boxes are becoming obsolete, you may want to consider just spending more money right now and use either an E-box or a 2D.
  7. Isn't it a bit ironic how much lumber was used to move your oak tree? You now have enough firewood for the next 5 dune seasons.
  8. Holy crap he's got some talent!
  9. No G for us the moho went back to the dealer to get a bunch of things fixed before the warranty expires. Today I have to spray all of the weeds that have sprouted up everywhere, probably gonna go with the wife to the outlet center for some shopping and then tomorrow her car and my truck desperately need to be washed. I'll finish up in time to watch the new episode of Shameless tomorrow evening. We may have to load up the rail and do a day trip or two while the moho is gone. The new truck tows the flat trailer and car like no other and we can get there in about 3 hours. Maybe next weekend.
  10. I've never used F11 so no input there. I have used several of the ceramic coating products with just so-so results. To make a long story short I applied them both to freshly corrected and "raw" paint, maintained the coating with the recommended detailer spray and never ever dried the car with a towel but instead used a leaf blower to dry it. The coatings would last about 6 months and then get hazy areas that would not come off. Needless to say I had to abrasively remove the coatings and then repolish, wasn't really a big deal just time consuming. Nowadays I use Chemical Guys Jet Seal every few months and after I wash and dry with the leaf blower I spritz and wipe down the whole car with Mequires quick detailer using dedicated microfiber towels. The Jet Seal is an amazing product that, like Mequires quick detailer, can be applied to windows as well. The Jet Seal will shed water every bit as good as the ceramic coatings would. For the moho I use spray wax, it produces gloss and slipperiness just as well as anything and I can get the whole thing done in a lot less time. I've washed it 3 or 4 times since the last application and the water still beads well.
  11. Anyone going to Gordons the 4th and 5th? Our 2 buddies we have been duning with are not going but we'd still like to get out there. It's just me and the spouse with V8 rail, we just like to cruise and have a good time.
  12. Yes pump and fan need to be on relays. The starter should be on a relay also, unless you are using a heavy duty push button but even then it would be better to use a relay.
  13. A manual transaxle isn't rocket science guys. There will always be those who will opt to pay someone to fix things for them, like the OP I'm not one of them. You guys always talk about "learning" about your sand cars, the only way to learn something is to just do it.

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