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Everything posted by fortyfour

  1. Disingenuous? No not at all. Please note the words "in some instances" that I included in my post, it has not been edited. My post was not meant to pull the wool over anyone's eyes or offer advice that was not accurate. I was not trying to be a dick or smartass but rather simply offer some factual proof that a weight distributing hitch can double the towing capacity of a DP in some instances. I do however understand how you can interpret my post several ways. Yes you can put this hitch on a Prius and I agree it would not pull 10,000lbs. This is the hitch that Thor installed on my coach when they built it out from a chassis made by Freightliner, the GCWR (42,400) label on the interior matches exactly the sum of the GVWR (32,400) and the maximum weight this hitch (10,000) is rated for. According to the hitch the maximum weight of a trailer cannot exceed 5,000lbs unless it is used with a weight distributing hitch device, and then it cannot weigh more than 10,000lbs. If I'm not mistaken this label indicates your trailer weight can double when using a weight distributing device, and it also states at the very top of the label to not exceed the lower of the towing vehicle manufacturers rating OR the rating on the hitch for the particular setup you are using. In other words you must know the weight of your equipment and not exceed the GCWR of the tow vehicle. Yes this IS all basic math. Unfortunately not all RV owners even know what GVWR and GCWR mean, much less really know what the weight of their equipment is. The receiver hitch does indeed tell you how much you can tow, as long as you do not exceed the GCWR. As has been mentioned already in this thread, what the rear axle capacity is on an RV is a huge factor in determining the tow rating. I'll try to condense this down as much as possible here. There are 2 things that are affected when you hook up a trailer, first there is the tongue weight which directly affects the weight on the rear axle, and in the case of an RV there isn't much give or take here some of them are near the limit with a few passengers and half a tank of fuel and water. The second factor with towing capacity involves the hitch itself and how much weight it can physically handle without material failure. If anyone had noticed on the picture of the hitch label I posted a weight distributing hitch cuts the tongue weight in half. See the trend here? Yes the transmission has a lot to do with towing capacity also, but that has already been factored into the GCWR of the tow vehicle. If you stay within the GCWR guidelines your transmission will be adequate. The OP said the DP he was asking about had a GVWR of 27,910 and a GCWR of 32,910, so regardless of the hitch that is installed, this particular RV for whatever the reason is only rated to tow 5,000lbs. I did not even offer a recommendation to improve the towing capacity of this RV because the chassis was only rated to tow 5,000lbs. That is why I recommended an RV with a GCWR of 40,000 or better if the OP was planning on towing a sand car to the dunes. One thing that I do recommend is that every RV owner familiarize themselves with their rigs. I know just about every component on my DP down to what rear axle it has installed, which by the way is a Detroit 20,000lb unit with 3.74 ratio. A Meritor 22,000 would have been better but maybe on the next one. There will be those who will boast that they tow way over the weight limit for their rigs and that they had been doing it for years with no issues. That's great I'm happy for them . It doesn't matter to me what anyone else does with their stuff. It's rare for me to even post things here anymore much less enter into a debate about something. I am very qualified to do so I just don't have the mental energy to go through with it most of the time when everything I post get's picked apart, while certain members can say that the Earth is flat and have the majority go along with it. Throw some sand on the fire when you go to bed I'm out.
  2. Actually yes, a weight distributing hitch can double the towing capacity in some instances. This is the weight label from the hitch on my DP.
  3. If you intend to tow a sand car trailer to the dunes buy a coach with a GCWR of 40,000 or better. My coach has a GCWR of 42,400 and I don't even consider it very big. It is likely that coach has a smaller rear axle and/or frame. You can run 12.50s with combo spindles, until they break. You are better off safe than sorry.
  4. One of our dune buddies has the 5.9 in his '99 38-ish Holiday Rambler, he bought it with a 90hp Banks kit already installed and he has no issues with it, I don't think his is even 300 base hp, I think it is a 240 hp engine. It doesn't make it to the top of any hill first but not sure that really matters, just slow down and use your gear selector to keep the rpms at about 2000. Everyone is so spoiled with all of the late model diesel HP that it is easy to forget that 15 years ago 300hp was what was available. My p/u truck has way more hp and torque than my DP does. Our 40' pusher has the 6.7 360/800 Cummins ISB and although it "could" use some more torque here and there, just driving down the highway it does just fine. Ours is bone stock and I let the computer worry about what the EGTs are. lol The only thing I glance at is RPM and coolant temp, which by the way if anyone wants to compare typically runs between 187 and 212.
  5. I run a 160 Mr Gasket t/stat in mine. I saw no reason to reinvent the wheel.
  6. Looks like you figured out a good way to remove them.
  7. Dexron 6 will work fine for p/s hydraulic fluid.
  8. I'd bet the power increase over the '19 is all software.
  9. I'm not a winch expert by no means... IMO install a "real" winch with a series wound motor rated at 9K or better if you want to pull a full sized sand car up a ramp into your trailer. I bought a Smittybilt 9500 from Summit for $300, it has 93' of cable. I use the winch to load my 2500lb car at home and it pulls it up with hardly any effort, it all depends on your battery voltage when it starts pulling the rear up the ramp, it does slow it down as soon as the rear wheels hit the ramp. Smittybilt is a Chinese product but so are most of the other winches on the market. Mine came with a 3 year warranty on the motor and lifetime on the planetary gearset, it was about the same price as the equivalent HF that only had 90 days of warranty. My only gripe is the 12' cord on the remote, Smitty makes a wireless remote but at $180 I have learned to live without it. It wouldn't take much to lengthen the corded remote that it came with. Winches are grossly overrated and often mislead unknowing people into buying one that is just not suited for the load they need to pull. A big benefit of the larger winches is that they have near 100' of cable so if you have to use a snatch block and double it up it will still reach out 45' or so. A snatch block will effectively double the capacity but slows the pull to half speed.
  10. Superdave the last post in this thread was 12 years ago. Lol
  11. The final version of your car is just plain bad ass! That is the look I'm shooting for when it comes time to put some color on mine. What's your wheelbase?
  12. Yep love a big block but they are heavy. If it were aluminum you'd have something very valuable. Coming from a 1995 model year motorhome, the chassis was probably made in 1993 or 1994 which would make your engine a Gen 5. Still a good platform to build upon, it used a 1 piece rear main and 4 bolt main caps. 1000HP supercharged? Yes with a 14-71 roots blower and Brodix heads the marine guys do it all the time, and on pump gas! As has been suggested an LS would be a better choice.
  13. Yes good advice. I maybe incorrectly always assume someone who asks a question regarding setting the toe on their car would already know to make equal adjustments for left and right tie rods, again just my assumption. The string down the center of the car will allow you to get each wheel set individually when the steering gear is in the center, it will also allow you to get the steering wheel centered if it was not centered previously. Measuring total toe is actually just a number that can be broken down further into individual wheel toe, I was trying not to get too detailed with it. You could always bring your car to my shop and we could set it up on our Hunter alignment rack and measure all 4 wheels. We could then set individual rear toe and get the rear thrust angle perpendicular to the car's centerline, then we could measure the steering angle inclination, adjust caster and camber to a tenth of a degree and then set the front toe to a hundredth. I've been tempted to set my car up like this but off road cars have so much dynamic suspension travel it is pointless to adjust them to this level. Any change in ride height changes literally every measurement. Technically speaking it is only accurate to align a vehicle with the weight of fuel and passengers on board. That's why I say the toe on an offroad car with 20" of wheel travel is not as critical as one may think it is, add in the fact that we use them with 10 to 15 psi in the front tires and it blurs the measurements even more. One more thing I will mention, there are very few cars that don't have at least some amount of bump steer (some are very good but hardly any of them are perfect). Bump steer means the toe measurement is changing as the wheels move up and down, and depending on the severity of the toe change, can cause the car to dart right or left as the suspension moves. If your car has any amount of bump steer built into the front suspension, setting the toe to a specific number is moot unless that particular ride height is maintained while you drive it, in the sand we all know that is just not possible. So again your total toe setting is not as critical as many may want to think it is. My car was set to 1/4" as it sat in the garage and I left it at that. Last year we broke a heim and it bent the left tie rod, we got it adjusted back semi straight in camp, I think it ended up being toe-d in about an inch, we duned the rest of the weekend and I never noticed any difference in the way it handled. I've done so many wheel alignments in my 33 years as a tech I can align anything with 4 wheels and make it drive straight. This offroad stuff is just a kindergarten exercise as compared to making a car that has come out of the body shop for collision repairs drive straight. Just some of my random thoughts late on a Sunday night, it's all good. See you all in the dunes shortly.
  14. Aurora makes the best, FK makes the best that are affordable, the others are one season junk. I use FK Teflon lined and have very good luck with them.
  15. Is that metal or is it just aerated? What's on the magnets? That much metal of that particle size would surely have turned the fluid silver/grey.
  16. Haha I think about how much money we could have saved/invested at this point in our lives if we had not found it necessary to have so many high dollar toys, but life is so short and you never know when your time will be up so I say live life to it's fullest while you are still able to.
  17. Using a tape measure at ride height, assuming you have sand tires installed, measure across the front tires from rib to rib in the front, then the same measurement at the back of the front tires in the same place. Subtract the two and that is your toe. A measurement of 1/4" to 1/2" toe-in is good. That means the measurement in the front will be 1/4 to 1/2" less than that measured in the back of the front tires. If anyone thinks the toe-in needs to be any more precise for something driven in the sand you've read too much on the web. LoL
  18. ^^That installer might not work on an LS balancer, the bolt threads are very deep into the end of the crank. The Kent-Moore installer we use at the dealer is about a foot long. You will not need an alignment tool to install the front crank seal if you have not removed the cover, just tap it in flush with the cover with a suitable tool or block of wood. Yes it is nice if you have a seal installer but if not you can get by without it. If you have the front cover off, put the seal in with a block of wood before you put the cover on. Then you'll have to align the cover before you tighten the bolts or else the crank seal will not be true to the crank and will leak. This can also be accomplished without the use of an alignment tool, loosely bolt the cover to the block with some rtv sealer up under both bottom edges on both sides of the gasket (no rtv around the perimeter just the bottom edges), and then install the balancer which will center the seal/cover where it needs to be, then rotate the cover left or right until the oil pan rails are level then tighten the bolts. I've done probably 500 of them at the dealer and have never used an alignment tool. We have one I've just never used it. A flywheel locker that bolts up to the stock starter mount is a very handy tool to have if your bellhousing arrangement will allow it. It's near impossible to torque the balancer bolt without somehow keeping the crank from rotating. Tightening the balancer bolt with an impact will work in a pinch but is not ideal, LS balancers are held in place solely by friction which is why the bolt torque is so critical. I've had to replace crankshafts because of shortcuts other techs have made while putting them on.
  19. I think people sell their buggies for 2 reasons, they may be done with breakage and maintenance, or they may be chasing something bigger, better, faster. It seems that those who sell their buggies and buy a SxS enp up dumping lots of money into the SxS to make it more like their big buggy (you guys do this don't deny it). Those that sell and buy something bigger, better or faster might have been influenced by peer pressure and the need to keep up with the Joneses (not an attack on anyone just a theory, we all do it). My buggy has been a work in progress for about 5 years now with some upgrades every summer on an as needed basis. Every time we make an upgrade it exposes the next weakest link and that has been the driving force behind it all. The end game for me is powder coat but I'm not 100% ready just yet. This summer out of necessity we did new spindles with hollows and new upper arms plus bigger front tires. Next summer we have a new 1 3/4" frame planned with an emphasis on occupant safety in the event of a rollover. I kept my V8 HP very conservative to help prolong the life of the drivetrain and I can honestly say I do not need/want any more power. I've got more than a few bucks wrapped up in it now and have no plans in the foreseeable future to sell it. But to throw a number out there today...I'd part with it for 45k. The list of things to do keeps growing, mama wants to either reupholster or replace the seats, and the sheet metal needs to be refined a little and finished, it needs a fuel cell and then there's that new 1 3/4" frame I mentioned. When we do the new frame we're gonna shorten the 135" wheelbase a little, lower the engine/trans down a few more inches to get some more down travel and we're gonna raise the front shock mounts a few inches to move the front wheel travel upwards where it is more useful. I'm most excited about removing the light bar from the roof, I hate it, it needs a curved one mounted flush with the roof. Fortunately I'm in good with my metal guy.
  20. We were blessed with this fine piece last year at 2am in wash 6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lobjgVo0c2Q&list=RDlobjgVo0c2Q&start_radio=1&t=1&t=1
  21. They are all the same junk built by all the same circle of people who go from one manufacturer to the next and then a few years later start over again. There is no such thing as a quality RV unless it says Prevost or Newell on the back. I'd suggest pick the floorplan/layout you like and just deal with the rest. The supposedly high end units are just "lipstick on a pig" in my eyes and aren't worth the extra dough they try and fetch for them. Under all of the fancy wall coverings and shiny paint they are all the same crap. Ain't none of them going to last until the end of the 15yr loan people often buy them with. Buy one a few years old and let the first guy take the hit.
  22. I’ll have these with me at the SSSS Saturday if anyone is interested. Make me a reasonable offer.
  23. Cool ride. Now you can go out and buy 3 C8s.
  24. Has anyone seen my baseball?

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