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RosenberryC

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About RosenberryC

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  1. Awesome! Please do post up. I'm running the Fortin and am curious as to what I have....
  2. Got any other pics of the internals you can post up Lincster?
  3. I read through this quickly, but here is my 2 cents. This is how I see it. IF and only if Box #1 is the only thing that was adjusted and nothing else is bent. You actually threaded the new heim in too much. Let me see if I can explain short and sweet. If you threaded it in too far, you actually pulled the top of the spindle in, the tie rod staying the same length probably actually pushed the tire outward due to its pivot point. Again super quick read with gut response. I AM NOT going to debate anything with anyone just throwing out a real quick opinion. Cheers, Chris
  4. My new to me car I've only had the opportunity to put several hundred miles on has the wide-4. I really like it so far. And I really like the auxiliary cooler and pump that's built in because I like doing extended runs in the desert. Dealing with Doug at Fortin has been a great experience so far. Lots of emails and questions prior to buying and after buying multiple emails and phone calls. I would email Doug and instead of replying he would actually call......and I wasn't even buying anything yet and my car came with a transaxle he didn't even sell me. I really appreciate that and it shows be stands behind his product. Of course before people get upset this is just my opinion so far. I had such a great experience I even chose to go through him to deal with my messed up tilton clutch. Don't know the mileage but the trans has been in the car since 2014. With everything I read and have learned from others I came up with my own conclusion. And this is it. Driven correctly and with a decent amount of responsibility this transaxle is probably going to work out great for me and be reliable for many years. But when something does go it going to cost a chunk to have fixed. But on that it is likely that I'll get many years of service out of it. I kind of summed it up to the service costs game and down time. This is purely an example.....pull it every two years and spend 3k each time or run it for six years and maybe spend 5-7k. Less work and less downtime overall. Does seeing a 7k bill hurt for a play toy yes, but it's still cheaper than the 9k in the long game. Again just my opinion with a new to me trans that I haven't spent money on yet....
  5. Well this sucks..... My new to me car has a gear one steering rack.......... What is one to do if problems arise?
  6. You can add not extended. But if you go tuning with King they will fill after they are fully extended. Stamped on the shock vs what you run can be different. KING themselves told me to do different than what was stamped on the shock. I have had two tuning sessions with them now. 150psi is super common though. I was running 150 in some of my bypasses per king, another tuner is telling me he prefers 200psi, and in a truck build I had I was running between 275-325 psi to fight cavitation per a tuner and the truck killed it off-road and never had a failure.
  7. You're killing me! Wish I was out there where ever that might be?
  8. Get them to or call DC shocks. There is definitely something wrong. I just saw your last pic with the car being held up with absolutely zero tension on the springs.
  9. If your existing pre-load was set without the straps on, and you state you had to compress the front end 1-1/2" to put them on, you just added pre-load. If you were already at 1-1/2" you now have 3" of pre-load.......In most peoples opinion that is too much for the front end. And a quick check on oil level. Just pull the springs and let the nitrogen out. If you cannot fully compress/collapse the shock they are over filled. The oil level will not effect how stiff it is when testing it in this manner, the entire reservoir and shock body could be full and the piston will still travel through the fluid. What's stopping you is the fact that the oil is to full because there is no room for shaft displacement. Now there is a lot more to this, but I am just stating for a quick check without tearing everything apart this would be a starting point.
  10. sand phene- that's exactly what I was thinking...... I would start with pre-load and if that's right I would check nitrogen pressure. You might be surprised how much spring force there is coming from nitrogen pressure on what appears to be an extremely light front end. I am no pro by any means (just a garage do it yourselfer), but I have rebuilt all 8 of my shocks two times, revalved the coil overs 3 times and the bypasses probably 6 times. And played with pre-load multiple times while searching for a sweet spot and then adjusting for the dual rate collar to kick in. I am in northern California so I doubt I can help physically, but if you want to PM me or setup a time to hop on the phone I would be more than happy to share any of the knowledge that I have that so many people have given me help with shock setup. Cheers, Chris
  11. Very Nice, wish I had the time and skill to tackle projects like that! Keep the progress pics coming.
  12. Motion ratio has a lot to do with things as well.
  13. I am late to the conversation, but a well known shock tuner in the race world told me at a tuning session I had with him. "Speed=Money=Comfort!!!" He followed that up with "There is a point of almost to big, but bigger is better, faster, smoother, more controlled, and that equals safer" He also stated "bigger shocks are almost always a way to improve a cars handling" he followed that up with a question "how fast do you want to go and how much are you willing to spend on getting there" Just my .02. I run huge shocks on a lite desert car. And I have tried a half dozen different valve stacks. I have had this car flat out with every bit of speed it could muster up in the dunes and on Barstow main and felt completely in control but it rode rough on small stuff. I've also had a tune that made it Extreme Caddy. Big shocks have a big broad range of tuning ability. I am now experimenting with much more creative valve stacks than your basic stacks trying to achieve a Magical Tune that offers the best of both worlds. I am dreaming, but my goal is trying to achieve 75-80% of the characteristics I have felt on both sides of the spectrum caddy/whoop smashing.
  14. I know this is a for sale ad, but I just wanted to comment. What a nice setup! If we graduate down the road from Towing to DP and Stacker this well thought out design just really show cased the possibilities of hauling capacity of a shorter trailer to me. Good Luck with the sale!! TTT

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