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sandroosten

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Everything posted by sandroosten

  1. crank sensor? not uncommon to get a bad one.
  2. if putting the coil you suspect may be bad on a different cylinder does not change anything, try putting one of the coil packs that you know is good and has spark on the cylinder that was not showing spark and see if that changes anything. If the good coil that has spark does not work when connected to that cylinders wire you know the problem is not the coil.
  3. stupid idea, try putting the coil pack that you suspect may be bad and causing the issue on a different cylinder and see if it causes the same issue. I would suggest doing this while you leave the other cylinder dead as you have it now to make it start. (hopefully that makes sense)
  4. what kind of motor? maybe a ground came loose on ride home?
  5. Alper keeps trying to talk me into letting him stroke my LS1. If all goes well on one of the investments that I am working on its going to happen.
  6. Well, Saturday we did an early morning run to Dumont. There were some sick cars that met us out there. My car ran on point the whole first run... At the end of the second run it started acting up again. I went from an extreme high thinking my problem was behind me to a pretty bad let down. Every time I got up high in the RPM again it would cut out. I brought it home and started cleaning and chasing grounds. I re-grounded damn near everything, and the grounds didn't change a thing. I replaced the relay just because I had an extra, AND I ran another dedicated line from the battery to the main constant hot wire on the ecu(the orange wire in spot 1). I took the car back out and BAM. running perfect again. Even if the problem happens again I am pretty confident I can figure it out. It is just like all of you guys have been saying. It has to be a voltage drop. I am pretty confident the problem is fixed but I'm not counting any farm animals yet. here are a few pics of the cars sitting in camp!
  7. Alper is a good dude. He does great work and he is honest. You wont be disappointed. Everything he has done for me has been on point! Your car is looking great, and it gives me something entertaining to read while at work. Keep the pictures coming!
  8. OK I know this might be a little overboard with the emojis, (had to delete a bunch to get message to come across) but I'm almost 100% positive that the problem is resolved. I took the car out last night after tightening the ground on the back of the head and I ran the sh** out of if and tried to make the problem occur. Wouldn't happen! My theory...... You guys know your business. I guarantee it was a voltage drop that was originally causing the problem. Running a direct wire with a relay solved problem one. Then My stupid A$$ put a new clutch in in mid season. Somehow I forgot to tighten the ground and just my luck this would cause the EXACT same problem leaving me to think that putting the relay in didn't solve the problem. whats the chances of that happening? I hate to be too confident and jinx myself before I take it out for a solid weekend, but from past experience everything I did to it last night would have made the problem happen and it didn't. You all on here are some great people and I cannot thank you enough for the help.
  9. Yes it is MEFI, I dont know who the previous owner was. the guys bought it from took it in on trade and really didnt know what they had. when I clicked on octane on my scanpro program is said 99.6 so Im almost positive it must be tuned for 100 octane which i just found out last night. and yes i think it is 91 i am running. (premium from the gas station) the car was an 06 or 07 and i have not talked to turn key just because it was so old and the people with similar issues were told it was a voltage drop. I made that change and nothing helped. So you put a relay in and confirmed voltage? Im really hoping the octane is the problem and I didnt cause any damage to the engine. the compression on the cylinders was between 160 psi and 180psi. highly doubtful its the octane of fuel that your running, unless you bought some shitty no name station, then its probably 87 octane How do I check the voltage out of the wire at WOT? I checked it when the car is running and sitting their. also the laptop is saying that the ecu is never going under 11.5 volts when driving it. Once the issue happens (backfire, flame out of exhaust and limp mode) the computer just goes crazy like all of the sensors shut off as if the ecu doesn't know what to do for a second.
  10. You guys on this site are awesome and I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the help. Fuel pressure - seems good - runs at 58PSI even under a load. alternator - with all lights and fans on is putting out 14.16 volts at the battery TPS - .75 volts at closed throttle 4.75 volts at 96% open throttle fuel - now has 100 octane - still having issue coolant sensor voltage is 2.49 volts MAP sensor voltage 4.49 found a loose ground last night and tightened it (back of the head). I don't know how the hell it came loose, and I don't think it was loose before I pulled the motor and did the clutch, and the car had the same problem before that. regardless I will test to see if that ground was the issue tonight. if its not I will chase all of the wires to make sure they all are not damaged and properly connected I still need to do a couple of other things you have all recommended. I need to pull crank sensor and check the reluctor wheel. Calling CBM direct is a great option that I did not know I had before this thread. Its amazing that the company will walk you through helping with diagnosis when it is not their motor and you are not a previous customer. Most companies tell you to bring the car in to look at it and what to start the billing process. This has become a challenge for me at this point and once my mind is stuck on something it drives me nuts until it's resolved. I drove the heck out of the car all season and I just shifted early not utilizing all of the power and it never bothered me too much. Now that I am focused on fixing it the damn thing is driving me bat sh** crazy.
  11. Yes it is MEFI, I dont know who the previous owner was. the guys bought it from took it in on trade and really didnt know what they had. when I clicked on octane on my scanpro program is said 99.6 so Im almost positive it must be tuned for 100 octane which i just found out last night. and yes i think it is 91 i am running. (premium from the gas station) the car was an 06 or 07 and i have not talked to turn key just because it was so old and the people with similar issues were told it was a voltage drop. I made that change and nothing helped. Im really hoping the octane is the problem and I didnt cause any damage to the engine. the compression on the cylinders was between 160 psi and 180psi.
  12. would that still be the issue if I put the old one back in and it fired right up?
  13. when you say not burn efficiently and run worse than with 91 what would be the symptoms? just lack of HP or would it include the stuff that I am complaining about? Disregard that sentence. When I first read it I thought you said it was tuned for 91 but you run 100. ok, but same question. would this cause the symptoms that I am experiencing?
  14. when you say not burn efficiently and run worse than with 91 what would be the symptoms? just lack of HP or would it include the stuff that I am complaining about?
  15. what will a car do if the tune is for 100 octane and I have been running 91? will it show the symptoms I had mentioned above? I know its a stupid question and it is probably something I should have known. the previous owner didn't tell me and with it not having a turbo or a supercharger I didn't think much of it. while I was out messing with it last night I had the laptop hooked up to it and I seen an option to view "octane" when I clicked on it is says 99.6 which I'm assuming is 100 octane. obviously the answer is to drain the fuel and add 100 octane and retest. I am just stuck at work and its all I can think about so I am hoping someone might know if this could have been the issue to put my mind at ease a little. I wont be able to get back out to test for a couple of days.
  16. Jaybird95- No worries. I really appreciate the reply's and the the help. It was a inexpensive test! Sandtours - Ill give that a shot. I need to go buy that vacuum pump. rampage42 - I did attempt to change the crank sensor. I bought a cheap one off ebay and it appears it was DOA . Ill go to the dealership and buy an OEM one. I have been told that the CPS is either good or bad, and bad wont run at all. But I'm willing to try anything to get this stupid problem behind me. chasing electrical sucks. I have the MEFI scan tool. I only purchase the the base model to read what was going on so I am unable to do any tuning, and for some reason it is not recording the data. Is there anything I should be looking for that could be a give away? as far as codes its not throwing any, but it does show a "check engine output" a "closed throttle" and a "stall or reset". Are these normal items to show or is the computer trying to tell me something?
  17. well, I went and tested today. I thought I had it. seemed to be running very good, but once the motor warmed all the way up it was right back to the same old thing. i ran the direct wire from the battery with the relay to the ignition feed. weird thing was when I put in the new crankshaft positioning sensor the car would not start at all. put the old one back in and it fired right up.
  18. ok, I got the relay in the mail yesterday along with the crankshaft positioning sensor. Getting ready to start cutting. I just want to confirm with you guys who are much smarter than me that I am doing this correctly. For the relay I have the Mefi 4 and the orange wire in the #1 spot is a constant hot that I should not mess with. This wire is always hot regardless of the switch. # 19 (the pink wire) is the ignition feed that is only hot when the switch is on. It is # 19 that I am going to cut and put the relay in with a direct feed from the battery right? I am going to test the relay first, and if that does not fix the problem I’ll change out the crankshaft sensor. I don’t want to do both at one time so that when I do fix the problem I know which item was the issue. Again all of you have been so helpful and it is much appreciated.
  19. I really appreciate all of your feedback. I ordered the relays last night and it looks like I should order the crank sensor. Hopefully I can take this thing out this weekend and figure it out. I do have a question about the low voltage at WOT. Im guessing this thing did not roll of the showroom floor with this issue and neither did Jaybirds. What would be the root cause of the low voltage at WOT? regardless Im going to do the relay and I am very confident that one of your suggestions will do the trick.
  20. thank you for the reply. any info on the specific relay you used?
  21. I need some help from some of the professionals on here. I have a Tatum black widow with a LS1 and a MEFI that is supposedly tuned for 500HP. (that’s what it says on the bottom of the computer). My issue is that when I am at wide open throttle or close to it and the engine goes over 5000 rpms it backfires and goes into limp mode or power reduction mode. I have to shut the car off and turn it back on and then it runs fine. I have beat my head against the wall trying to figure this thing out. The car had this issue when I bought it, so it is nothing that I did that may have caused the issue. If I ease into throttle and slowly increase the rpms it will go up to about 6000 rpm but the second I give it a quick push to the pedal it backfires or misfires and I have to shut it down. I have fuel pressure even when under a load (I have not checked the injectors ) It has brand new spark plugs in it. Brand new fuel filter Many people are telling me it could be a tuning issue. The computer is from turn key I purchased the mefi scan tool to try and figure it out but its not throwing any codes. Any help is appreciated.

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