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About travelah

  • Rank
    Sand Soldier

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  • Campsite
    wash 6
  • Your Ride
    2007 Tech 3 mid engine

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  1. As stated above, definitely wire in another relay, one per fan. Big fans can draw above 50amp in rush each. I also dont like those style relay/sockets. I've had the same problem melting the socket due to loose terminal connection on the pin. I like to use these sealed relays... https://www.prowireusa.com/p-513-sealed-relay-kit.aspx
  2. travelah

    switch pro

    What do you mean engine start? My 9100 does engine start, I have my ignition circuit on one and starter on another.
  3. The amps are mounted on top of that aluminum panel in the picture and speakers are underneath. Nothing is attached to the actual hood, it goes over and clears the amps (barely). I laid dynamat on the panel before mounting the speakers underneath. Most of my panels are layered with dynamat on the mounting surfaces, the rattling drove me crazy first trip after the sub install.
  4. Here’s the enclosures I used... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PNQBPW3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  5. I run a wetsounds stealth 10 soundbar and was not super impressed with the sound (great hi but not a lot of low to mid). Super easy hookup and Bluetooth to it though. I ended up adding a sub amp and recently another amp for 2 additional 6.5” speakers. I used some cool speaker enclosures that flat mount to a panel. I mounted them underneath my electronics panel under the hood. Made my own custom rca splitters since I’m using the soundbar as my audio driver (aux out from soundbar to send the signal to both amps). Here are some pics of my setup I have in my phone.
  6. Scrambling to get the car ready for this weekend but here’s some updates. Powder coated the new upper and old lower arms. Ended up re wiring the whole car. Hoping to wrap that up tonight. The panel that sits under the hood turned out pretty nice. Ran everything to 3 deutsch connectors (1 misc size 29 pin, big size 4 contact 2 pin for + and -, and a dtp4 for some of the 12g wires) so if I have to remove the panel it’s super easy. Everything has a connector, is sheathed, heat shrunk, and labeled.
  7. Oh yeah I did that once showing my neighbor when I first got it all wired up. He didnt think it was very cool when it turned into the wall separating our garage and broke a 2x4 and some drywall lol. Look into the heat shrink label makers. They are nice. I just redid my motor harness and used one, then did clear heat shrink over it. Think Im gonna end up re-wiring the rest of the car and using it.
  8. Found these dimensions on pacific customs if this helps... King and link pin spindles Dimensions:Diameter of shaft where seal rides: 40mmDiameter of shaft where inner bearing rides: 25mmDiameter of shaft where outer bearing rides: 20mm Combo spindles Dimensions:Diameter of shaft where seal rides: 44.5mmDiameter of shaft where inner bearing rides: 32mmDiameter of shaft where outer bearing rides: 25.5mm King Kong spindles Dimensions:Diameter of shaft where seal rides: 48mmDiameter of shaft where inner bearing rides: 38mmDiameter of shaft where outer bearing rides: 30mm
  9. I ran my Switch-Pros outputs to a terminal strip. That way if it fails I can jump 12v to each circuit I want on easily. I run my ignition and starter on it. It’s pretty cool, people always trip out when I start my car with my phone. I used my battery cutoff switch to the switch pro blue ignition wire so it turns on the unit. I wired one on another car where we used that wire for a hidden switch. Make sure to set a radio name and password in the app. One of my favorite things to do on a holiday weekend is browse for units in range and turn on lights at the hill at night 😂😂😂. People think their switch pro is going crazy. Someone could also essentially set a password on your unit and lock you out of the Bluetooth. The sp8100 had no password recovery but I heard there’s a way to reset it on the 9100.
  10. Yup! Boosted mine after 1 season NA with stock ecu and missing link. Took it out 2 weeks before Halloween. Made it to the hill Friday night. After a couple runs really enjoying the new power I thought, “I bet I can wheelie this off the starting hill”. Hauling down olds I punched it at the bottom in 3rd and heard boom! Put a nice viewing window in the side of the block. To add insult to injury, my buddy had like a 5’ tow rope and the roost was spraying right in my face the whole tow back. 2nd one I put an aem in and lasted most of the season. Rode all day in super hot weather and made it to the drags. Must have raced 10 runs down the drags when my dipstick shot out and sprayed hot oil all over me (mid engine). I could hear it pre-detonating right before it happened. Melted the corners of 2 pistons on that one. 3rd one I put a hole in one of the pistons going down the drags.
  11. I never was bothered by the rattle when driving but I put a sub woofer in 2 seasons ago and the rattle drove me nuts. I used a dynamat knock off on all aluminum panels that got rid of it completely. Made the stereo sound much better!
  12. travelah

    CV Temps

    I was measuring some friends cars at the end of last season with an IR gun on beverage breaks. Would generally see 140-160 with the trans side usually higher. I was running some cheap grease (Red n' Tacky) on my car and saw up to 190 on trans side after some long hard runs in the end of season heat. They didnt look bad or pitted when I took them apart but I'm going to switch it up this season and see if the grease is what caused mine to run hotter than the other cars in our group.
  13. PPV works. Paint protection vinyl. Clear bra.
  14. I run a powder coated aluminum tube over mine with just big enough opening to fit snug over the CV boot. Just another option...
  15. Car is just pretty close to being torn down to frame for summer prep and mods. Going to uni ball on the arm ends instead of bushing since I kept cracking mounts. Got the trans serviced and needed a new R&P and a few other small things. Took apart my engine harness and changed some branch points. Got rid of some splices and ran wires all the way back to the ecu and re pinned it there. Moving all fuses and relays to the front of the car instead of being scattered in different places. Sheathed it in some cool red and black PET braided sleeve. Got a heat shrink label maker and used clear heat shrink over the labels. Messed up a few connectors and terminals in the de pinning process but got em down now! Didn’t realize some of the connectors had pull to seat terminals so shoving them through the back of connector wasn’t a good idea... oops. Motor harness is close to being done.

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