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travelah

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About travelah

  • Rank
    Sand Soldier

Previous Fields

  • Campsite
    wash 6
  • Your Ride
    2007 Tech 3 mid engine

Recent Profile Visitors

430 profile views
  1. I never was bothered by the rattle when driving but I put a sub woofer in 2 seasons ago and the rattle drove me nuts. I used a dynamat knock off on all aluminum panels that got rid of it completely. Made the stereo sound much better!
  2. travelah

    CV Temps

    I was measuring some friends cars at the end of last season with an IR gun on beverage breaks. Would generally see 140-160 with the trans side usually higher. I was running some cheap grease (Red n' Tacky) on my car and saw up to 190 on trans side after some long hard runs in the end of season heat. They didnt look bad or pitted when I took them apart but I'm going to switch it up this season and see if the grease is what caused mine to run hotter than the other cars in our group.
  3. PPV works. Paint protection vinyl. Clear bra.
  4. I run a powder coated aluminum tube over mine with just big enough opening to fit snug over the CV boot. Just another option...
  5. Car is just pretty close to being torn down to frame for summer prep and mods. Going to uni ball on the arm ends instead of bushing since I kept cracking mounts. Got the trans serviced and needed a new R&P and a few other small things. Took apart my engine harness and changed some branch points. Got rid of some splices and ran wires all the way back to the ecu and re pinned it there. Moving all fuses and relays to the front of the car instead of being scattered in different places. Sheathed it in some cool red and black PET braided sleeve. Got a heat shrink label maker and used clear heat shrink over the labels. Messed up a few connectors and terminals in the de pinning process but got em down now! Didn’t realize some of the connectors had pull to seat terminals so shoving them through the back of connector wasn’t a good idea... oops. Motor harness is close to being done.
  6. Got it. Never had an issue with map overlay in Glamis without a subscription on Leadnav even with 0 cell service. I always thought it cached it on the ipad after viewing it with cell service.
  7. What is the subscription for? Ive been using leadnav and just saving my own markers and tracks but I only ride in Glamis. I really like the app, its great. My only complaint about the ipad with leadnav is the daytime glare (dont really need it in the day so it doesnt bother me much). If you are using an ipad just make sure its the cellular and not wifi only. You dont need to have a data plan or cell service but the cellular model has a gps chip where the wifi only model does not. You would need a bluetooth gps puck if you have the wifi only model.
  8. Stopped by transworks today. Looks like the input shaft had slight grooves where the seals sit. Eric said the input shaft can be salvaged but the ring and pinion, side gears, and synchros not so much... About a $2500 rebuild. 💸
  9. 9FE2818C-32C7-4E56-B33F-A8C2E03B7F55.MOV
  10. Thanks for the replies! Trans is in the shop now for a refresh and hes gonna check it out. Gonna replace the pilot bearing as well. Learned a cool trick on getting those out... Instead of using grease and getting it everywhere, use bread and a bolt. Shove a bunch of bread in the hole and use a bolt with some electric tape to get as close to the diameter of the hole and hit it a few times with the hammer. I think it was harder to get in than it was to get out with that trick!
  11. Yea there was 2 in there but I only replaced the outer one and did it without removing the bell housing. Didn't know what replacing the inner one consisted of at that time.
  12. I used the one off the kartek website... is this the wrong one???
  13. They will get replaced anyway on the rebuild but that’s good to know! It’s as simple as just pulling bell housing, changing the seals, and resealing the case? I’m more concerned that something else is causing it.
  14. About 4 years ago I bought a brand new 2d and ran it with a honda for 2 seasons, refreshed it (only needed bearings and seals), then mated it to a LS1. I ran it for a season with no issues. Before this season I noticed some oil on my rear skid plate, initially I thought rear main seal but after pulling trans I realized it was gear oil. Talked to Transworks (built it and refreshed it) and he said it could be a bent or gouged input shaft (but very unlikely as hes only seen 1 bent in all his years) or my adapter plate is not perfectly concentric, or the input shaft seal could have gone bad and to try and replace the outer one before throwing money at it, so I did. I thought it was all good because I never saw any more oil on the skid plate but I pulled it last night for my routine every 2 year refresh and gear oil poured out the bell housing again. I'm taking it in this or next week but it got me thinking... I replaced my clutch in the middle of that first season with the LS and it was dry, if it was the adapter plate not being concentric would I have seen it at that point or not necessarily? Anyone had this issue? What was your problem?
  15. You can add a spacer inside the shock so it wont top out as far. Mine are almost 2" too long and I just let all the nitrogen out and loosen the top collar (unless I have my cv's off at the same time).

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