Country Coach intrigue 32 ft (((((Solar install)))))

So I had already bought one each of a positive and negative heavy duty busbars. $38 for both from Sun Fun kits. Trying to wrap my head around why I would need the Lynx Distributor and spend another $200. It does the same thing except it has fuses and monitors them. I already have a 400 amp fuse coming. Then I will need whatever other fuses for the system. I wont need the BMS or Shunt for this system.
 
This guy has a whole series of videos on solar. Lots of good tech info. Wish I would have found these early on.
 
onanysunday said:
So I had already bought one each of a positive and negative heavy duty busbars. $38 for both from Sun Fun kits. Trying to wrap my head around why I would need the Lynx Distributor and spend another $200. It does the same thing except it has fuses and monitors them. I already have a 400 amp fuse coming. Then I will need whatever other fuses for the system. I wont need the BMS or Shunt for this system.
Click to expand...
 
What is the amperage rating of your bus bar? Everything that attaches to your positive bus bar should have a fuse (for the most part)so you will need fuse holders for each unless they are part of the bus bar. Jumper cable from the bus bar to the fuse holders will be needed as well. I went with the distributor due to space limitations and the cost of bus bars, cables and fuse holders was close to the Lynx. I paid around $150 for my Lynx. Have you figured out what you will do on the 120 volt AC side of the inverter for overcurrent/short circuit protection? I think you mentioned that your battery cables from the batteries to the inverter are relatively long. Don’t rely on the BMS to protect the cables. You should fuse thise as close to the batteries as possible. I am sure you have already thought about all this but thought I would mention these thing just in case something was overlooked.
 
Sandkist said:
What is the amperage rating of your bus bar? Everything that attaches to your positive bus bar should have a fuse (for the most part)so you will need fuse holders for each unless they are part of the bus bar. Jumper cable from the bus bar to the fuse holders will be needed as well. I went with the distributor due to space limitations and the cost of bus bars, cables and fuse holders was close to the Lynx. I paid around $150 for my Lynx. Have you figured out what you will do on the 120 volt AC side of the inverter for overcurrent/short circuit protection? I think you mentioned that your battery cables from the batteries to the inverter are relatively long. Don’t rely on the BMS to protect the cables. You should fuse thise as close to the batteries as possible. I am sure you have already thought about all this but thought I would mention these thing just in case something was overlooked.
Click to expand...
Yeah I will probably just order a linx this next week. At this point in my life easier is good to get things done. For sure want to fuse everything as much as possible for protection. So yes still researching that. First steps I need to get the panels mounted, get all of the victron components mounted, get the batteries mounted. On vacation this next week but the week after I can start getting all that done and then I have the front passenger windshield getting yanked out of the coach so I can switch out the refrigerators and get that washer dryer unit out of there. That GE fridge weighs 137 lb so the forklift with long forks will certainly come in handy for that.
 
Last edited:
Interesting thread here discussing dc to dc converters. It is mentioned that motorhomes have a split charge relay which allows the alternator to charge the starting battery first and then the house batteries. If so and without a dc to dc converter that creates a problem. Sounds possibly as easy as removing that fuse in the system. But not sure how to figure that out. It would disable the jumper switch between the batteries which I would be ok with. Just use some jumper cables if the starting battery fails. Also the Victron does have a low amp charging circuit from the inverter to charge the starting battery. But I did read that is not compatible with different types of batteries lithium and lead acid.
 
Sandkist said:
Staubli connectors are the best and you should not mix brands. Equally important is to use the proper crimping tool. There was/is a video online used to certify installers using Staubli connectors. You can also buy PV cable with connectors already installed. PV cable comes in different strand counts and the fine strand (150) is the way to go IMO.
Click to expand...
So is that crimp on the Staubli connector special? I am seeing the pliers online no problem but I have all kinds of pliers in the toolbox with that type of crimp connector. Or at least looks similar. Photo shown as an example of Deutsch style connectors we have used for years in the shop.
 

Attachments

  • connectors.jpg
    connectors.jpg
    57.7 KB · Views: 3
Well this appears to be it. I just have to figure out how to rewire it to disable it.
 

Attachments

  • 20250817_161714.jpg
    20250817_161714.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 2
  • 20250817_161751.jpg
    20250817_161751.jpg
    3.3 MB · Views: 2
  • 20250817_161757.jpg
    20250817_161757.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 2
So the 15 psi oil pressure sender switch has a 16 gauge wire which energizes that 200 amp solenoid. That allows the house batteries to be tied into the alternator charge circuit. Is it as easy as disconnecting that blue wire?
 

Attachments

  • 20250817_162613.jpg
    20250817_162613.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 3
  • 20250817_162402.jpg
    20250817_162402.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 3
  • 20250817_162349.jpg
    20250817_162349.jpg
    3.6 MB · Views: 3
Last edited:
.
 

Attachments

  • 20250817_163808.jpg
    20250817_163808.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 7
  • 20250817_163830.jpg
    20250817_163830.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 7
  • 20250817_163908.jpg
    20250817_163908.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 8
  • 20250817_163911.jpg
    20250817_163911.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 7
  • 20250817_164708.jpg
    20250817_164708.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 5
I can say that on my coach, the battery control center was so intertwined with everything that I ended up disconnecting the wires to the relay coil that connects the chassis and coach batteries together for charging. I crimped terminals on each wire so if I ever need to jump start from the coach batteries I can just reconnect the coil wire quickly.
 
onanysunday said:
So is that crimp on the Staubli connector special? I am seeing the pliers online no problem but I have all kinds of pliers in the toolbox with that type of crimp connector. Or at least looks similar. Photo shown as an example of Deutsch style connectors we have used for years in the shop.
Click to expand...
Staubli states to use a specified crimping tool with their connectors is all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top