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Thanks for all the suggestions and tips!

I ordered some of the nuts that Chopshop used. They should be here Wednesday.

ARP 300-8365 is the part number for quantity of 10 12pt nuts if you have M10X1.5 thread studs. On order hopefully they/them nuts arrive before my trip.

There is already another thread about (one of) the trans nuts.

I’ll grind a socket and wrench in case the ARP’s don’t get here in time. Thanks.

It is a 15mm.

Chisel and flat blade screwdriver.

How do you tighten the lower adapter plate to transaxle nut on a 2D? My thinnest wall snap on socket can’t get around it. I can’t get a wrench on it enough to tighten it. What is the trick?

Ultra woke definately don't anyone to think we are honkey ass Cracker Town?

Might as well rename it to: White Guilt Cracker Reparations Cracker

Shoshone caves, craters of the moon, the Teton dam flood site, and the St Anthony civil defense caves.

I did see and remove the snap ring. Should have included that. If my hands aren’t to greasy I’ll take some better pictures when I do the other side. What is the magic torque number for the big nut oh wise one?

Remove inner part of outer bearing. Place socket over inner sleeve that is between the two bearings. Hit socket with hammer. If inner bearing does not budge, apply heat to hub and hit socket like an unpaid farm hand.

What is the trick to removing these bearing from the rear hubs (to hopefully save them as useable spares)? Heat the hub and blind bearing remover?

Thanks for the info and insight!

Do you think that much would come in just from the two open holes?

The amount of sand between the engine and adapter plate when I tore it down.

What are you guys doing to seal up where the bracket on the adapter plate meets the engine (marked in red)? A liberal amount of RTV on the inside and outside?

If you’re referring to the circled RTV it is plugging a hole that could allow sand in.

Thank you