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yes. but not the chineesium knock off you linked to. get the genuine Radlock ones......work very well.

you can daisy chain Livorsi gauges. the DT series connector they use is great, just de-pin them and use 22ga wires. The DT series pins/sockets will accept up to 4 22ga wires. each of those gauges only draws like 300ma of current.......so a single 22ga wire would support upwards of 15 gauges

My shop is in Vegas (boulder City) and while i mainly work with Motec i can help him out on this. Desert Performance 702-513-8837

if you are rewiring the car......just put a PDM in and be done with it. your fan control strategy is just one reason why. first of all, no 70's technology cheesy external relays or fusing needed. then the control parameters you are looking for can be easily implemented, fans will not run if the...

the clutch is just relieving torque from being applied through the trans, easing a shift. its not like the parts stop turning. I recently setup a car with flat shift, via a strain gauge on the shift linkage and combination of DBW throttle control and ignition cut....achieving much the same...

you overdrive the alternator, so it uses a smaller pulley than the crank pulley, by a ratio upwards of 3:1

I'm not a big fan of running no thermostat. as has already been pointed out, it takes longer to warm up. to me ( a wiring and electronics guy) the real issues is you now only have the fans to regulate engine temp. that means the fans are cycling on and off way more than if you had a thermostat...

1.ECU power 2. Ignition power 3. starter soenoid 4. Fuel Pump 5. Rdaiator Fan 1 6. Radiator Fan 2 these six 6 circuits would just run the engine, thats assuming you dont have any oi cooler fans, water pumps etc. then add in just a handful of lighting circtuis, front, rear run, whip and you are...

biggest issue i see here is 8 cirrcuits from the switch pro is nowhere near enough. you could almost use up your switch pro just for the lights. i would go with a 32 channel AIM PDM.........30 circuits barley gets a car done.

nothing unique about the honda. its more about is the radiator mounted above or below the height of the engine, how lines are routed so they gravity flow naturally and so forth.

doubt its fully purged, doing it that way generaly gets 90% of the air out. watch you gauge, if you see the temp bouncing back and forth near normal running temp and not staying steady thats a reliable indication of air stil in the system

most likely intake air temp. depending on what ECU you are running, when unplugged, the ECU defaults to a reasonable value. on a NA car, there isnt a huge impact from inlet air temp, only a few percent differences in the fueling, thats why it likely made little to no difference in performance...

Hose/radiator being cold is the smoking gun telling you there is air in the system. start cracking lines while running to purge the air

here is the deal.......LS stuff runs at about a 3:1 ratio of crank speed vs alternator speed to get max output from the alternator. this is easy to see by the diameter of a LS crank pulley vs the alternator pulley, and most other OEM's are within this range as well. However, most daily drivers...

what is the actual crank RPM? anything over 100 should be fine. pull the plugs, shut off the fuel and crank it over. if it does not synch, you have a sensor or wiring issue that needs to be addressed before anything.

Turbos have come a long way in the last ten years. there is a reason most OEM's have turbo charged engines nowadays instead of mechanical superchargers. for those saying turbos are "undriveable" in the dunes or up top in the power band.....i have three words for you.........proper boost...

virtually every car on the road today is DBW and the reliability factor is a non issue. for the last 10 years most SXS's are DBW and you never hear of issues there. in almost all cases when people have DBW issues, its because they used a cheap non OEM throttle, or crap wiring. Neither of which...

get rid of the cable and go drive by wire. its the only way to go.

wheelies can be controlled by good modern electronics and boost control.

i have a dyno shop and have seen a TON of GM LS3 crank position sensors failing lately. they run ok till about 4000+ and just start misfiring and popping like crazy. even BRAND NEW dealer GENUINE GM sensors for the LS3/7 crank failing right out of the box.