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I'll be the guy crashing and launching off the track on the regular. I've not been on a track in 20+ years... Look for a blue and white b7..... likely upside down.....

Coyote in Victorville. I live on the south end of Hesperia it's only 15 min away.

Well it's an indoor sealed clay track. So it should be good

I don't know how the numbers work on fox shims, I've always run king. But start by putting a small diameter shim between the largest and 2nd one down, on the comp side only. You can adjust how it reacts by changing the diameter and thickness of the small shim. I usually start with a .008 or .010...

I always do, bypass tube are position sensitive, flutter stack is velocity sensitive. Flutter stack is the only way I've found to make the chop/washboard better. The shock tuning needs to be good everywhere else first tho, Flutter stack should be the last thing you do.

I was big into r/c racing as a kid, had a rc10T3 the week it came out. Once I got a driver's license and got into real cars it slowly faded out. Have a few other misc cars over the years, rock crawler, and a drone too. A few years back I got a arrma mojave 6s. Holy shit that thing is fast. 60+...

At camp I cable my car to the moho, directly under my bedroom window, and I have a very stout lock that goes through the brake rotor, makes it slightly more difficult when the tire won't spin. At vendors or the store we usually have 1 person that stays with the cars, If we are eating I try to...

In a non synchro trend, I run swepco 203. 140wt. With a mild built ls, s4 trans, and heavy ish car, the trans went 7 years without opening it up. Finally pulled it due to a main shaft bearing taking a dump. Trans shop asked what I was running, and told me not to change a thing.

My last car had 930 cv joints, at some point I switched to the RCV joints, with 300m cage. Never replaced another one after that. I was going 15-20 trips per season, had them for 3 seasons and they were still on the car when I sold it. I have 934 cv joints now, and that a whole different subject

I had a honda j35a4 in my previous car. Ran great, cheap, made 300hp. I have friends with subi cars as well, they seem happy with them, but they definitely spend a little more then I did. I think either one is a good engine, but for me, I'd do the Honda.

Hahahaha I see what you did there 😏

3:13? Must be nice to sleep in.........

I've had the same odyssey for 7 years, and put one in my boat 2 years ago, cranks a big block with no issues. I will continue to use them till they are no longer made. Best damn battery I've ever used Edit to ad they are both the pc925

Pellet gun. My friend has one that will drop a coyote with a well placed shot. I forgot the brand, but it shoots a 22 sized pellet, and is crazy accurate

I'm looking for a chassis, arms, uprights and trailing arms. I want to re use as much as I can off of my current ride.

Will you be building any 2 seat chassis? I'm still looking....

Ginger ale and salor Jerry

I have always run 1/8 to 1/4 toe in. At ride height. As others have said, check it a full droop and full bump too. It sucks if it goes toe out as it gets closer to bump. This means if you hit a bump on one side, the car will steer into it. I had this issue at one time, car sucked to drive......

I'm a heavy equipment operator, and haul my own junk, so I have a commercial A.

The bosch 044 has been discontinued by bosch a few years ago. The replacement they make is slightly different, and I don't recall the part number at the moment. It's on their website. Some shops may have old stock still on the shelf, but if you do some poking around on the web you will find that...