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A lot of the cost for a 6100 drivetrain package is the underdrive. That is where they shot themselves in the foot when they went to 40's.

I've seen results from almost every oil used, and I will say that the Maxima Pro-Gear 75/190 has been some of the best among all brands. Regarding the "straight to the dyno" comment, this has resulted in more trans and clutch failures than most anything else. Gears, bearings, synchros all need...

Confirming what others have said above. Pull the diff out with ring gear attached and flip so that the ring gear is on the drivers side of the trans when installed in the car.

R&P's have been fine. 3rd and 4th gears are another story.

Have to run a really low 9" rear end ratio, which makes them weaker. And you still have the big splits between the 3 speeds which makes the torque converter work harder in the sand, which is what builds the heat. They are cool cars, but have their limitations over a transaxle car with a 4 or...

There have been a few variations of front engine sand cars built over the years (V8Rails built a few back in the mid 2000's). Most are built to use cheaper drivetrain parts like a turbo 400 or Ultraglide automatic transmission and either a solid axle rear end, or independent Ford 9" rear diff...

Not officially. Waiting on shop space to be completed before I can move in. I'm chomping at the bit to get going, my phone has been ringing off the hook this week.

Not picking on you Richard, just clearing up a few things in this post. 1. PBS no longer exists as a company. The only parts to found would be good used parts, or buy new "replica" billet nosecones from Rancho. 2. There is a difference between the Type 1 and 2D version of the mid engine...

The torque limiters in the trans and front diff are tested at the factory power output. Once you throw more power at them, they will slip easier. I will be working on some improvements to these if they become more of a problem. For what it worth, I like the fact that Robby put the limiters in...

If buying a used trans that was previously set up for rear engine, the diff/ring gear would need to be swapped for proper rotation. Not a hard job, but worth knowing the basics about gear mesh and how to check preload and backlash, then make adjustments as needed. I don't know of anyone making...

Call Ron at Weddle at e-mail him those pictures. This could be part of a batch of clutch's that would stick a little. He can explain the issue and get you sorted out.

Standard S4/S5 with 10" R&P would be fine for that power. You really only need the 11.5" R&P when you go north of 600 HP/TQ.

550 HP with a 2D would make anyone a good customer for me. S5 would be the ticket for this package. I challenge anyone to say they feel the extra weight/power loss with the bigger trans. We run these in Class 10 cars with sealed Ecotec's at 185 HP to the tire. S4 or S5 would allow to run that...

The idea with holding the clutch in after shifting into first then back into neutral is that the input shaft (and reverse gears) stop spinning once you shift into first, making it a little easier to get the reverse gear teeth mesh. Once you let the clutch pedal out, the input shaft (and...

Reverse is somewhat the same issue as first, but kind of worse in a way since you are literally grinding the gear teeth to engage reverse, where all of the other gears are dog engagement. There is no easy (cheap) solution to fix that. It sound a lot worse than the damage it causes, but it does...

A few questions: 1. Did you check the release point on the clutch pedal when you were adjusting the pedal stop? 2. With the engine running and clutch pedal depressed while in gear, did the car want to roll? Something to keep in mind with the larger 10.4" and 11" clutch is they have a lot more...

Not one call to the phone on this topic? Jeez, drop the major trans supplier from your screen name and everyone forgets about you. Don't worry, I'm still here to help when needed. It all depends on how far you want to go with the 632. Here are the basics: Weddle S4/S5 (10" R&P) are really only...

That would be an excessive amount in my opinion.

There should be very little in and out movement of the input shaft. .012" is probably a bit excessive, I would say .005" would be the max that I would be comfortable with. This in and out movement is from the mainshaft ball bearing in the front nosecone. Ball bearings will always have a little...

I'll be swinging by Friday