New Polaris Pro R

rumor is the OEM thermostat housing is two piece and it has fallen apart in some cases. You can buy a revised part direct from Polaris before it become an issue. I just ordered one and will compare.

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megadesertdiesel said:
rumor is the OEM thermostat housing is two piece and it has fallen apart in some cases. You can buy a revised part direct from Polaris before it become an issue. I just ordered one and will compare.

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All 2025 Pro R models come with this one piece cast thermostat housing. It started at a race part that became production.

About 6 months ago on one of the Polaris race shop talk videos they talked about this part, and being developed for the factory race team and then made into production.
 
Here is the Polaris video that talks about the new housing. Go to minute 3:30.

 
New cage day! Picked it up from UTV Speed this morning. This is their first cage doing the A+ pillar to the floor and it turned out amazing. Wish I took more pics but its loaded up and heading to Mammoth tomorrow
 

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Rockwood said:
I take it The Clevis hasn't failed in droves as predicted in the other thread on these things? :ROFLMAO:
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That hasn’t been a real problem. But I’ve had a few friends that have had the piston come off the front shocks. One flipped over with his 80+ year old mother in the car. And a couple other friends found out with a lot less drama.
 
ROBERT L said:
That hasn’t been a real problem. But I’ve had a few friends that have had the piston come off the front shocks. One flipped over with his 80+ year old mother in the car. And a couple other friends found out with a lot less drama.
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Limit strap kits then?
 
Rockwood said:
I take it The Clevis hasn't failed in droves as predicted in the other thread on these things? :ROFLMAO:
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Not unless you stuff one of the front corners in a bad hole. Lots of miles on friends cars with no upgrade. I did upgrade mine for peace of mind since i have an early '22 model.
 
Rockwood said:
Limit strap kits then?
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I don't think that would help the shearing of the clevis from shock shaft. Limit straps are a good thing to save internals from being topped out and making servicing more difficult.

I do have a friend whose rear shock in his Turbo r come apart and he crashed the car pretty bad. I wasn't there but he supposedly didn't hit anything in the dunes.
 
megadesertdiesel said:
I don't think that would help the shearing of the clevis from shock shaft. Limit straps are a good thing to save internals from being topped out and making servicing more difficult.

I do have a friend whose rear shock in his Turbo r come apart and he crashed the car pretty bad. I wasn't there but he supposedly didn't hit anything in the dunes.
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I'm talking about limit straps to keep the piston from exiting the shock. I'm assuming it's coming out the bottom from topping out too much/hard?
 
Rockwood said:
I take it The Clevis hasn't failed in droves as predicted in the other thread on these things? :ROFLMAO:
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I did mine - I think its mostly fine though. While they did the cage they also did the MTS billet clevis + cups and springs, lower ball joints (uppers are apparently fine in the newer ones - though I should have just done it since it was all apart anyway), tie rods, and the suspension bolt replacement kit from Misfit garage. I guess a lot of the suspension bolts aren't properly shanked from the factory which causes a lot of clunking in the front of the car. Heading up the Mammoth tonight so I'll see if that helps

I don't think a lot of it was necessary but I plan on taking this car on longer adventure rides (Arizona Peace Trail, baja, etc) so I'd rather just play it safe
 
brecht said:
I did mine - I think its mostly fine though. While they did the cage they also did the MTS billet clevis + cups and springs, lower ball joints (uppers are apparently fine in the newer ones - though I should have just done it since it was all apart anyway), tie rods, and the suspension bolt replacement kit from Misfit garage. I guess a lot of the suspension bolts aren't properly shanked from the factory which causes a lot of clunking in the front of the car. Heading up the Mammoth tonight so I'll see if that helps

I don't think a lot of it was necessary but I plan on taking this car on longer adventure rides (Arizona Peace Trail, baja, etc) so I'd rather just play it safe
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I went round and round with CT Racewerx about the bolt kit they sell. The difference between Shank and Shoulder was main topic. Yes the Polaris bolts have a slightly smaller shank and the shoulder is too short resulting in threads on the tabs. CT only fixes the Shank problem NOT the should issue. I'm not sure of the Garage Products ones though.
 
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