The Lynx distributors clean things up considerably and are the way to go. If you have access to a dieless crimp tool then nothing wrong with extending your existing cables using a butt splice although a new unspliced cable is always preferable. Welding cable is better to use than standard battery cables as it has more strands.
What is the voltage of your panels and which Victron charge controller did you get. With two panels most likely connected in series.
Here is my charge controller. The guy that I bought my batteries from at sunfun kits sized this and sold me this controller. I know for sure he told me on my panels positive to negative when hooking them up. Maybe that was part of his thought process when determining the charge controller? He was talking a lot of technical stuff that went way over my head. The green wire coming out of my existing inverter goes up to a bus bar with a whole bunch of other green wires. Then my 4/0 cables coming out of inverter loop around out of this cubby and then back in and connect to the house batteries. One cable does that and then a second ground is going from the existing inverter to the chassis. Short cable that is not even probably 18 in long. I was thinking I could put my linx inside this area where my existing inverter is. That area closes off with a panel. Then still put my inverter, serbo, and charge controller in the space under the bed as discussed. I don't think I would have any cables any longer than 6 or 7 ft and everything I have read says 10 ft max.
We still have our wire cart from closing the business. I might be able to steal a little something something from here and then buy the rest as needed.
I think we're talking different wire size?
My bad. My mind goes straight to 4 AWG from my Car Audio life and we typically only use 1/0 in the bigger setups.
One pair (positive and negative) should be connected to the inverter charger . The second pair going to the solenoids will feed all your coach 12 VDC loads including your gen set . Guessing a little now but one solenoid is your coach disconnect and the second solenoid ties your chassis battery to your coach battery for charging ( assuming you have some sort of battery control center). Second solenoid would also be the remote jumper if your chassis battery is drained.
Using the Lynx system you will first need to connect each battery ( assuming you are using 12v batteries) to the Lynx bus. There will be a positive bus and a negative bus. This will power the Lynx distribution. The 4/0 cables (both + and -) to your inverter will terminate at the Lynx distributor and be fused there with a 400 A fuse. The cables to your solenoid will also terminate at the Lynx and also be fused there. Any other cables connected directly to your batteries should be connected to the Lynx as well. When you are done there will be one cable from each post of your batteries.
