New to me chassis

GLAMIS WEATHER
Looney Duner

Looney Duner

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This chassis poped up and too good to pass up. 1.75 chromoly, was originally designed to be a class 1 car. Never completed, and now going to sit in my garage for a few years.......... hopefully finish the current car, run it for a season, sell it and then start on this....20260521_112751.jpg20260521_112724.jpgIMG_20260521_115241.jpg20260521_112751.jpg
 
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I seen that on facebook amazing deal
Congrats, looks to be a fun build

we have the same cars in camp, 3 of them, i will send you some pics, the front end was the weak point of cracking,
i would add some gussets and for the top of the upper arms brackets, and then it cracks in the rear, on the trailing arm supports,
add the gussets and you are good to go,
 
J Alper said:
I seen that on facebook amazing deal
Congrats, looks to be a fun build

we have the same cars in camp, 3 of them, i will send you some pics, the front end was the weak point of cracking,
i would add some gussets and for the top of the upper arms brackets, and then it cracks in the rear, on the trailing arm supports,
add the gussets and you are good to go,
Click to expand...
Definitely would be nice to know where the weak spots are, and what others have done to fix it.
Also, really not a fan of the shock angle on the front end, that is going to get fixed as well. Unless the 3 in your camp have run it that way and works good?
Any info is much appreciated, not many of these around as far as I can tell.......
 
Looney Duner said:
Definitely would be nice to know where the weak spots are, and what others have done to fix it.
Also, really not a fan of the shock angle on the front end, that is going to get fixed as well. Unless the 3 in your camp have run it that way and works good?
Any info is much appreciated, not many of these around as far as I can tell.......
Click to expand...
The rear trailing arm mounts are week, add gussets all around the rear trailing arms, the tabs are strong but they crack at the tubing,

The front arm supports are the weak link in the car, the tubing that is 45 degree sliced is .060 it will crack along the top and break out the tubing/heim supports
plate in the upper J arm supports around the heim joints, box all of that area in,

Remove all of the steering box mounts make a bulkhead on the back of the steering box that goes from the bottom of the frame to the top,

THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS WHERE THE FRONT END WELDS ON TO THE CHASSIS, ---- the front tubbing on the front of the car, run a chromoly flat plate down the bottom from the base of the skid plate past the front to tie the font end to the chassis, make the flat plate around 24'' long, like a DD prerunner chassis,

Drill out the bottom bolt hole in the spindle use a larger bolt and double pate the bottom of the spindle bolt,

After that you are good to go,
 
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J Alper said:
The rear trailing arm mounts are week, add gussets all around the rear trailing arms, the tabs are strong but they crack at the tubing,

The front arm supports are the weak link in the car, the tubing that is 45 degree sliced is .060 it will crack along the top and break out the tubing/heim supports
plate in the upper J arm supports around the heim joints, box all of that area in,

Remove all of the steering box mounts make a bulkhead on the back of the steering box that goes from the bottom of the frame to the top,

THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS WHERE THE FRONT END WELDS ON TO THE CHASSIS, ---- the front tubbing on the front of the car, run a chromoly flat plate down the bottom from the base of the skid plate past the front to tie the font end to the chassis, make the flat plate around 24'' long, like a DD prerunner chassis,

Drill out the bottom bolt hole in the spindle use a larger bolt and double pate the bottom of the spindle bolt,

After that you are good to go,
Click to expand...
I appreciate all the insight, a little foggy on plating the front end, do you mean on the bottom of the chassis like where a skid plate would be? Already planned on some reinforcement, but it is very helpful to talk to someone that knows the chassis. Thanks again!
 
Looney Duner said:
I appreciate all the insight, a little foggy on plating the front end, do you mean on the bottom of the chassis like where a skid plate would be? Already planned on some reinforcement, but it is very helpful to talk to someone that knows the chassis. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
1779898330203.png

I assume it cracks here, and the above from @J Alper is what shores it up.
 
It has a lot of .060 in the lower tubes and seems .095 in the upper on the ones we worked on, a lot of mixes size tubes,
 
J Alper said:
It has a lot of .060 in the lower tubes and seems .095 in the upper on the ones we worked on, a lot of mixes size tubes,
Click to expand...
Well that's not very comforting......
I was hoping it was 120 mains and 095 everywhere else. I may have to check a few, I don't really want a chassis that all 060.
Was the ones you looked at 1.75 ??
 
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I would also inspect all of the welds on the chassis there looks to be a lot of weld joints with cold lap which could have been on purpose to avoid blow through if the material is thin. But this is less than ideal and will likely cause alot of fractures at those connections. You will want to drill a few small 1/8" holes in inconspicuous places to check material thicknesses. The bulk head and rear pivot would be my biggest concerns if the pivot tube is made from anything thinner than 120 wall your chances of ripping those tabs off is significantly greater especially with how long the trailing arms are.
 
ranman5608 said:
I would also inspect all of the welds on the chassis there looks to be a lot of weld joints with cold lap which could have been on purpose to avoid blow through if the material is thin. But this is less than ideal and will likely cause alot of fractures at those connections. You will want to drill a few small 1/8" holes in inconspicuous places to check material thicknesses. The bulk head and rear pivot would be my biggest concerns if the pivot tube is made from anything thinner than 120 wall your chances of ripping those tabs off is significantly greater especially with how long the trailing arms are.
Click to expand...
I was just going to recommend checking the welds. I bought a car from him about 15 years ago and had several areas that needed welding or rewelding.
 
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