Speed UTV

[Toy Collector]

My neighbor, if in town races it, Chase Carr, he can fly.

Well, his Dad is Bryan Carr from Carr One so that makes it pretty easy.

 

[Sand Shark]

My neighbor, if in town races it, Chase Carr, he can fly.

Did he race short course back in the day?

 

[Cookie]

Did he race short course back in the day?

Short course, Mint 400 and such. No baja. Good kid, also details my truck.

 

[Rockwood]

Part of the oil system is it was designed wrong and has to pull oil through the oil filter under the oil tank. You should push oil through a filter not pull. This is why you have to do all the bleeding and it can be quite the process if you do a full oil drain, which Speed does not suggest unless you know what your doing, and have the tool to crank the engine over at the primary cmutch. Issue is the oil filter on the tank was later designed in after the initial oiling system & flow design and they could not change it. The original primary oil filter which was originally a synthetic cartridge filter in the engine block is now not even really needed or used. Thats a whole other issue and you can’t use that filter as it can collapse, thus they swapped with a metal wire mesh canister style filter that only stops big chunks. They now depend on the oil tank filter as the primary oil filter and with it pulling oil vs pushing is why the also felt the Wix filter was not flowing enough and had to make their own Wix knock off filter and charge 4X the price or as we call it the Speed Tax.

Holy shit. I was puzzling through that oil setup to try and figure out how the actual F oil was moving around, and the worst scenario was draw through. Sooooo many things that can go wrong with that. Pump cavitation is most unkind to engines…

it would seem to me from what you described above, the filter that is at the reservoir should just be a 100micron SS filter to keep debris from entering the pump and then the secondary filter would then function normally "AND" it would not have to be bled because the oil would flow right through the first filter and prime the pump on its own.

the issue is exactly right, filters are not designed to be sucked through and they have anti drain back valves which lets no oil flow through with gravity. that is its a poor design! and doing SS 100 micro filter would not be expensive and wouldn't have to be cleaned very often

If there’s a line from the dry-sump pump pressure stage to the engine, that’s where the filter absolutely needs to be. If the pump directly feeds the block in the casting, shitty. Maybe a block off plate that lets you add an in-line filter (like the remote filter setups for wet-sump engines).

Either way, that setup needs a solution. No way I’d trust it.