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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/31/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Not quite sure I'm answering what you are asking but I'll take a shot at it. There should be a 1/8" NPT inlet on the inboard side in the middle of the caliper. There is likely a sticker over it to prevent debris from entering before installation. Assuming you use -3 lines, use a 1/8" NPT to -3 AN adapter to convert the NPT to the soft or hard line you are connecting. If there are interference issues with using the caliper side inlet then you could cap that inlet and use the bottom inboard bleeder port to connect your brake line (use the bottom port so you can still bleed the air out of the caliper at the top). The bleeder ports should also be 1/8" NPT when you remove the brass adapter containing the bleeder screw. Use a good thread sealant on the adapters (I was told Loctite 565). Also, be careful not to overtighten steel NPT adapters into aluminum parts when trying to get an angled adapter pointed in the right direction. A company like AN Plumbing has the adapters you will need and you can order custom length flexible brake lines. Edited to add: Found my old brake line questions thread (Brake Line Plumbing Drawings). The first post has images of my proposed plumbing diagram. I ended up using all braided stainless lines which eliminated the bulkhead fittings at the arms.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    There’s nothing wrong with those tires. Run em or buy new if you want better condition. If they were 31s I’d buy them right now. Post them on RaceDezert for $450 and disclose the chunks.
  4. 2 points
    Don't leave extra 2 cylinders at home next time. You could of stood on throttle and wheeled through.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperListLanding also with the 4 piston calipers we use #3 brake lines, I have seen some cars use #4 but I believe everyone uses #3, responding to your text is the link above
  7. 1 point
    We use 100% braided soft line no hard lines, after years of building cars we find the most firm pedal in a sand car with braided lines mostly due to the tooling people have to make hard lines, we have tried the SS lines and had them polished and had small leaks and destroyed the powder coat, we have used aluminum line but you need the line straighteners to make the line look good, and then lines get bent and get a little leaks, or when you flare them they have micro cracks and leaks, we would get Buckshots in the shop with soft line and thought that was crazy, but never any leaks and always a firm pedal, so our last personal cars have been all soft line braided and has been a super firm pedal, also if cutting brakes, with Softline we can unbolt the cutting brake and move it in different direction, to remove the air, I have purchased the hard line flaring tools line for $600 and still had moisture at the fittings, In a sandcar I have not felt any difference in soft or hard line, the biggest difference in brake feel to me is getting 100% of the air out and keep it out,
  8. 1 point
    Not sure what you are talking about but when I ran my brakes, I did solid lines at the frame and soft lines at the arms. All from Pacific Customs, just measured what I thought I would need and that was it. I do believe there is a valve at my master cylinder for my fronts. https://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=brake-hard-lines&Offset=0&Store_Code=PC
  9. 1 point
    Since I would be changing every inch of color on it, powder wouldn't matter. Blown Honda. Duh...
  10. 1 point

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