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  2. Agreed! I bought a used Fortin from a board member (I don't fault them, FYI). I used it 1 season, and it started making a lot of noise. Turned out I needed a new diff, ring and pinion, bearings, etc. I learned that because it was an "old style", I needed to upgrade the main shaft to accommodate the new style diff, etc, etc. I may not be accurate on the exact details now but long story short it was just over $10k to fix and upgrade what was necessary but that was not a complete rebuild with all new parts. For about $1500 more than the repair on the Fortin, I bought a brand new sequential PBS (this was a few years ago now). I liked the Fortin, but in hind sight the cost of repairs can be out of control compared to the much more common Mendeola. Is the Fortin better? Maybe, who knows. For me it was a huge expenditure that put me right back in the same spot of needing a trans. I wish I had kept the 2D, because the money wasted could have fixed my 2D many, many times. Now I can say I've had 3 different transaxles in my car though!!
  3. I spoke with Neil last year, and asked him about the ghost campers and towing. His reply was that they are concerned about getting sued if someone claims that anything was damaged inside due to it being moved. Also as someone else mentioned, there are a lot of people that laugh at the ticket, and just view it as a reservation fee.
  4. perfect! mines about the same just hidden and i just has a 3/8 hose at the top going back to the ground cool shot of your car. the mini tank is still the best way bit lets all the oil accumulated there and burb. then when at rest it simply drains back. no spitting, etc
  5. Thank you! I’ll give them a call
  6. What I did with mine. Kind of a tank/vent.
  7. Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes. The night time amateur hour is the best....It's a fun time...lots of people...getting out and suck....just too many people leaving at one time... Bring a 18x24" piece of thick foam to sit on the hillsides....
  8. Today
  9. It looks like they solve the large thermal mass problem with the typical ICF. I would be curious about cost comparisons to the wall cavity I stated above.
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  11. Redoing the sheet metal on my 2007 Desert Dynamics. All panels are wrapped with a vynial wrap (cane move if you like). The hood dash and mid panels are raw underneath. The die panels and wing are powder coated underneath the wrap I'm not sure what color it has been wrapped since I bought it.Sheet metal is in great shape.includes Hood Dash center console wing side panels mid panels $2500.00 Thanks
  12. jwest2sh

    KOH 2020

    I've been wanting to go to the KOH for several years but have never made it. Johnson Valley is only a couple hours for me so I'd like to check it out. Who has gone? Can you do any riding there or do they shut the valley down like a Score race? I have a 40' DP and enclosed trailer....could I find a flat place to camp there? Is anyone going next year? Is it worth while or should I just go to Glamis or Superstition for the weekend? Thanks, ~jw
  13. LS1 w/ 930's...no good for me. Mine used to last 1 season with no turning brake in a 2800# DD. I added a turning brake and I use it all the time, and it has had no effect on my CV's... I switched to RCV 300M 934's. The 934's get some mild pitting just on the star by the end of the season with Mantek. The cages and the stars looked new. I just switched to Fortin stars and cages, Bel Ray/Swepco this year. We'll see how it goes. ~jw
  14. Thanks. Thats just the kind of insight I'm looking for. Its a 5 hour drive to go inspect it, so I'm trying to find as much info like this ahead of time.
  15. My buddy bought one that looks almost identical to this last year. I'm doing some prep on it right now in my garage. His chassis looks the same but it has a stroked Alper LQ9 with a Fortin Wide gear in it and it was used for mainly hard pack. I looked over the entire chassis and have to say, I'm impressed with the quality of this build. It's all tig welded and they all look really good. It has no dead tubes and the gussets are in all the right places. He has has C/O w/ bipasses in the rear and an internal bi-pass single on the front. I haven't found a single crack and it was rode hard. I wouldn't hesitate to buy an S&S if they all look like this one. my .02, ~jw
  16. cool shot of your car. the mini tank is still the best way bit lets all the oil accumulated there and burb. then when at rest it simply drains back. no spitting, etc
  17. Ok, Thanks for the advice. It has bypasses in the rear, and appears light enough that I'm thinking that should be sufficient for a good time. The last 2 are photos of the repaired and gusseted trailing arm mount.
  18. I also have a mid engine and it's always spitting fluid as well. I started with a cool looking stainless steel pigtail vent tube. But fluid & sand would accumulate in the skid plate. For one season I ran a line at least a foot above the trans and it still spit. I then went back to the stainless steel vent tube. Un-wound the pig tail, drilled a hole through the skid plate and put the vent tube through the skid plate with a mesh filter on the underside. It still spits fluid, but no more mess. I think a mid engine car is going to spit a little more fluid than a rear engine car because the vent is in the very back. So when going uphill under power the fluid will go to the back and spit out. I just check the fill hole and if fluid doesn't come out, I fill until it does.
  19. Without seeing the car can't really say if that's a good price or not. I'm thinking it's a little high if it's a single shock car. Maybe post some pics and you'll get more feedback.
  20. do you have axle plung on that side at full droop? how much? have axles been changed or replaced? maybe one is longer than the other and they got flipped to the other side. maybe its too long, just some ideas
  21. Just curious...……..That spec sheet says 350 HP. Is that correct? Maybe 250HP? When CBM offered their crate engine package I believe it was rated at 250 HP. Was anything else done?
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