K73

23 hours ago, Funco4JM said:

The Centroid sender comes in different Ohm measurements for different gauge application, you'll need to figure out what your fuel gauge measurement is and order that. The hole opening and bolt pattern is a standard size you select when ordering the sender. My car has Autometer gauges with the Autometer sender, so it is 240-33Ohm unit. The Autometer is a universal float sender, I don't like it because the gauge moves with the angle of the car very rapidly. You can't get an accurate fuel reading unless you are on flat ground (the Centroid won't solve that, it'll just slow down the reading reaction time). The Centroid can be ordered with a small bend if you want it to go to the bottom of the tank, or you can leave it straight. Centroid can cut it to length when you order it, or you can cut it when you get it and recalibrate it. 

I will order a straight one standard length, then bend it so it has a better path to the tank bottom, trim it and re-calibrate it.  I even thought about making a pie cut piece of aluminum tube to remove the angle of the sender, so it is straight up and down. Ill mess with that this summer when I get the car back from Next Level Motorsports. 

Correct on the Ethanol, E10 is the max they can handle. Not an issue for myself as I am on 91. Will be an issue for anyone who wants to run E85.

Thanks for the info. I can see why this mechanical-less way would be better in an off road situation. 

Funco4JM- is the centroid a direct replacement for the Gen4?  Considering the fuel tank was made by Funco and all is still stock?  The website says not good for fuels over 10% ethanol btw.

BTW- what transaxle do you have?

Hello,  I use a small 1/2 gallon tank under the passenger seat (I don’t routinely air out, so it’s enough- the end of the tank has an air chuck I can access from the top between the side rail and seat), and mounted the compressor right in front of it. The valve box is under the driver’s seat.  My friend made me up a nifty mount for the controller.  He welded a bar that we bent to the bolt that holds the tach- this keeps it from getting sand blasted.  I used 3/8 inch lines and fittings to air down and up faster- 1/4 inch works great though too.    I use the Funco cooler up front to hold things - and I like the nostalgia of it.  Hope this helps.  

Little V6 Honda gets it on!

Perfect- thanks!

17 hours ago, Pennywise said:

No, we had to make a new mount. 

Thanks for the feedback

2 hours ago, Pennywise said:

Jamar is probably going to be the closest to what you have.
 

I did tilton pedals and a Willwood turn brake in mine. 

Was the wilwood a direct replacement?

15 hours ago, Grease Monkey said:

Are you looking for the exact same to replace or to upgrade to something more modern looking?

Just replace or even rebuild if that’s possible now that the season has begun. 

Hello, I am wondering what you would recommend for a direct replacement for my turn brake (if there is one available).  I am also looking at replacing the brake and clutch assembly while I’m at it.  The turn brake and pedal assembly are the original ones that came from Funco. 
 

Thanks for any and all suggestions, and happy holidays. 

Really impressive!  So much to awe at- I really like how you ran the exhaust!

On 1/21/2022 at 6:52 PM, Punisher said:

funco isnt a big long travel coil car...

I’m not sure that JMPro was trying to compare his Gen4 to the big long travel cars you are referring to Punisher, unless you are referring to the discussion about King oil vs Amsoil.  But, Punisher does have a very valid point…. Don’t try and hang with those  long travel cars JMPro, if that is what you are doing 😉 

Hi GD.com,

Who has recent personal experience with having chrome work done?  Looking for recommendations for my Gen4 suspension parts.  Any good SoCal shops?  Or is it best to go out of state?  If so- who do you recommend?

TIA!