Funco4JM

4 minutes ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Actual expansion tank with a pressurized cap, or just an overflow bottle?

It has a pressurized cap. My radiator does not have a cap on it. This is the only way to introduce coolant to the system. 

Well, the process has begun... Started with removal of the Honda V6 and its accessories. This I found to be the easy part... 

For mock-up I did not install the clutch as I have to change the throw out bearing and do some cleanup in the bay. It will come out once or twice before going back in permanently. 

It went in with no issues. I quickly installed the rear cage to check clearance, no issues there other than the intake elbow. There is just not enough room from the TB to cage to make the elbow fit. I do have to rotate the intake 180* and that is where the problem began. I was excited and didn't stop to think of potential issues, not thinking about the sand build up under the intake, I removed the harness and unbolted the intake. Popped the PCV system off and grabbed the intake to remove... Thats when the gallon of sand that was under the intake flowed into all 8 intake runners and into my cylinders... Or some of them anyway. As I sat there cursing myself for not thinking things through, I realized the worst part was having to buy new gaskets. I'll just blow it apart, clean it and reassemble it. Being April, I still have plenty of time before the season starts *knocks on wood*. 

With that nonsense to deal with, I am pondering should I spend the $$ and have the 243 heads ported while they are off? It is a stock bottom end LS1 with a GM Performance Cam and springs. The intake is an LS6 with a stock 78mm throttle body and GM computer. I planned on pushing it to 383 cubes next year (can't swing that this year) but I might swing the heads now. Would it even be worth it with the 78mm throttle body?!

I already began the purchase of parts and items I would need for the swap. Fuel system is mostly here with just a fuel pump on its way, I wanted to go a little overkill in case I ended up with TT on E85 or something crazy, so all new -10AN fuel feed lines, Aeromotive filters, brushless Aeromotive fuel pump and Aeromotive X1 Regulator. I'll have to replace the existing 3/8NPT bung with a 1/2NPT bung on the fuel tank to feed it. The return line will be -8AN from the regulator to the tank. No changes there needed. 

Next thing to figure out is coolant lines... What are your thoughts on hard lining them vs. -16/-20 hose? The hose is very pricey compared to hard line fab. Since my current radiator uses an expansion tank, I will have to weld on a -4AN bung for the steam port line coming from the LS. I also need a bung added to the lower radiator hose for the expansion tank to drain back to. This is where the coolant line material comes into play. If it is hardline, I weld in a bung for an AN feed. If it is a soft line, I will have to have some sort of break in the line where a feed bung can be added, then soft line to radiator. 

I decided to just add a second PC925 to the car. Ordered a Funco battery box to add to the passenger side of the Forin. That will make it easy to wire into the new battery disconnect switch. 

I'll try to get some pics of stuff as it comes in. 

20 hours ago, onanysunday said:

That upper plate has a gusset and is welded directly to the frame. No way that is the issue. Yes you should replace both bags. Check the fronts to. 

Thank you sir, I will call Grant for the measurements and check that. Ill also get a couple new bags on the way. 

Update - Spoke to Grant, He says that the measurement to square up the upper bag mount and lower perch mount should be 3". If it is square at 3" then it should be fine as you'll see some deformation as the suspension cycles. He also said that the airbag will take the path of least resistance so it may be an old 18 year old bag that just needs to be replaced.  

45 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Dumb question: can the lower bag perch be installed backwards?  It looks like it's asymmetrical. 

It can't be installed backwards. The Heim/pivot would have no place to mount. 

In October I had all new Uniballs in the arms replaced along with perch pivot bushings and bolts. 

Something I did not consider is I had the perch link removed and had Heim links fabbed for it. I still have my old Funco links, I wonder if that is out of adjustment. 

Sorry for the late reply. The bushings were replaced in October. So they only have about 20 dune days on them. I did have the perch gussets added at the same time. Maybe it was bent prior and the Fab guy just locked that in with gussets lol. 
 

maybe I’ll swap my passenger side perch and bag to the driver side and see if that fixes it. If so, then I know it’s either the bag or perch that is bent. If it doesn’t change anything then it’s either the trailing arm or upper mount. 
 

Something else I noticed is that the bag is losing air pressure. I put the rears at 40 and the passenger side is still at 40 but the driver side (issue side) is down to 28. Maybe the bag is just done for after 18 years of use?

30 minutes ago, Dzrtrat1111 said:

Post a pic from the top. Looks like the bag is not sitting square in the top plate. 

Here is a pic from the top. Its sitting flush against the plate. Maybe the plate is bent on the frame?

Hey all,

So tonight, I was looking at the car and it had a bit of gangsta lean to it. As I looked closer, my driver rear bag looks crooked. The bag perch doesn't look crooked to me, but something is a mis. 

Thoughts?

14 hours ago, Grease Monkey said:

What engine are you removing?

I’m removing a 500hp Turbo Honda. It’s mated to a Fortin S4. 

14 hours ago, Jtmoney714 said:

I can help you with some savings… unless you already have the a1000 I think you would be better served with an aem fuel pump. I run it on my stroker and even with an e60 blend of fuel it was plenty of fuel pump. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-Electronics-50-1009-Inline-Flow/dp/B077JJ2Z5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1KLULDYJ45BSL&keywords=aem+400lph+fuel+pump&qid=1647647218&sprefix=aem+40%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-4

I already have the a1000. Thanks for the info tho!

6 minutes ago, HTElectrical said:

Yeah Right  I almost did on my recent upgrades, but ran out of money.  At $300 per 12" fan, and another coupe hundred for controller they are spendy..

A friend of mine always says a crack addiction would be cheaper than playing in the sand... I'm starting to believe that Lol. 

10 minutes ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Fans, don't go by the mfg's cfm rating.  Look at current draw.  It will give you a better idea of the motor size, and how much work it's actually doing.  Something like this is good.

Battery, I wouldn't trust an Optima to function as a door stop...

Good to know... May not go the route of Brushless due to the additional wiring and sensors needed. I may not even need new fans, I am just thinking the 14" fans that are 18 years old may need to be replaced with some 16" modern units. 

On the battery, what would you suggest? A different brand large group single, or dual odyssee PC925? Full disclosure, I already have a 2nd PC925 and battery box. I was going to pass it along to a buddy and use my original PC925 battery on my trailer to power my fuel drum pump, if I went the single battery route.

Hey all,

Over summer I decided that I will do an LS swap into my Gen4. I have already purchased the LS1, it is complete out of another running sand car. Nothing special, stock LS1 with Painless harness, corvette computer running all sensors, Painless fuse block and relays, OBDII port, Intake with MAF, headers, adaptor plate and clutch. Should be easy for the most part. 

This is my list of things to Fab or Change -

Engine mounts to be fabbed

Coolant Lines to be fabbed

Replace Bosch -6 fuel system with Aeromotive -8 (A1000, pre/post filter, regulator and all new -8 fittings/hose)

Weld in -4 bung in coolant purge tank for LS steam port line

Change fans on CBR radiator from 14" (Circa 2004) to new 16" Hi Performance fans

Replace P/S lines due to pump location change and attached resi vs remote resi

Battery option - Add second Odyssee PC925, or remove existing PC925 and install a single Optima full size? Any recommendations on this?

For those of you who have LS swapped a Gen4, what where some of the struggles you encountered? 

Thanks in advance!

I have a Gen 4 with the bosch style pump and filters currently. Over the summer I am doing an LS swap and will be going to Aeromotive pump and filters. Can anyone post up some pics of their fuel pump mounting and plumbing?  

Thanks in advance!

Pretty sure 1/4" are standard, but the 3/8" line will empty and fill faster. 

My Gen 4 had a Fortin S4 swapped in place of the 2D. Almost identical mounting and case sizes. 

Most carriers cap out at 30K.  There are a few in AZ that will go above that (State Farm is one of them). If you have a home in AZ (and package it with the sand car) you can use Midwest Family Insurance. 1 million CSL is awesome coverage. My Gen 4 is insured for 75K Agreed Value, with a $500 deductible it is $482.00 per year. 

Hagerty won't insure sand cars. Even if they are street legal. I have spoken with underwriting several times and it's a hard pass. 

I have an agency in Scottsdale AZ, if you are interested in a quote please reach out. 

Came out so nice!

I'm so glad I fled from Cali 11 years ago. Just a bunch of idiots leading/sinking that state.

Looking good!

Looks amazing. Cant wait to see this all together!

Thats bad ass!

In my theatre room in my last house I had Marantz Receiver, Integra Amps and B&W speakers. Sub was a custom Polk from the mid 2000's that was amazing. It sounded awesome for music and movies. The B&W were so smooth. 

Edit - Is Miller & Kressel still around?  They had some killer Audiophile stuff too.

That looks bad azz man.

Looks awesome!