Manxaru

I will have an intercooler, with Spal fan and custom scoop coming up for sale, includes mounting brackets for J35. May have an old waste gate, let me double check. 

still looking....thx

On 2/22/2022 at 1:18 PM, Kat-A-Tonic said:

https://classifieds.race-dezert.com/FOR-SALE:USED-Mendola-MD4S-2D-Gears-and-Ring-&-Pinion-Gear-185092

Thanks again for the link.....still looking. 

1 hour ago, Kat-A-Tonic said:

There are some used gears for a 2d on Racedezert that just came on today.

Hey thx....are they in classified section? Clicking around and using search and no luck finding them. 

11 hours ago, Carwashguru said:

Give Dave Folt's Trans a call. I know he had some gear sets in stock.

hey thanks...they didn't have anything on my list. 

long shot, I know, but desperate times...primarily looking for:

1.60 splined

1.04 idler

will also take:

1.56 idler

1.09 idler

1.00 gear set

thanks for looking. 

15 minutes ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

You're thinking the J32A2.  The J35A3/4 are basically the same.  One came in Acuras, the other in Hondas 

 

edit.... I wouldn't recommend the 32A2 for him.  The only time you see these have the failure he did is when boosted.  The 32A2 has something like 11:1 compression.  NOT boost friendly.

I actually meant the J35A3 (not recommending for him just asking). I looked into it for building a boosted engine with new forged rods and pistons, and the J35A3 block has the same casting number as the J32A2 which is supposed to be a little stronger and have better cylinder liners, and also slightly better breathing from heads and cams? 

But if you are not boosting the engine probably not much real world difference between the 2, like you said, plus the A4 comes in Hondas so easier and cheaper to find. 

1 hour ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Ebay.  Use 300-80035D as your search.  That is the dismantler's code for the J35A4

Any reason you like the J35A4 better than the J35A3? Cheaper on more available from the Pilot? Seems like a lot of the engine swap builder guys likes the A3 for better breathing heads and a stronger block....(but I don't have any hands on comparison.) 

A few general lighting suggestions ( from someone who works full time in lighting) 

- Pick a color temperature and try to stay with it throughout the entire house, including undercabinet lights, and screw in bulbs. Either 2700K (warm) or 3000K (neutral), nothing higher than 3000K for residential, unless you have you a strong personal preference for something higher.

- Try and pick downlight with a CRI of 90 or higher. (so colors don't look washed out, like fluorescent) 

- 4" max diameter for downlights. (6" downlights date the house) Try to get a regressed trim, they reduce glare. 

- Should be about able the get good 4" downlight, 90 CRi with regressed trims for under $30 each. If you have trouble finding them PM me. I can drop ship to anywhere in the country. 

- Be sure to match your dimmers to your LED lights, per manufacturer guidelines, to avoid flicker. Not all LED lights work with standard incandescent triac dimmers. 

Good luck, enjoy the ride. 

On 10/14/2021 at 10:21 AM, ChEFF said:

Just went thru the Electrical Plans with the builder. 3 1/2 hrs of total grind. Where light switches go. 3-way 4-way. Exterior lighting. Soffit lighting. Kitchen / bathroom / hallway / garage / game room / powder bath / bedroom / under cabinet lighting (Cool Stuff) how much AMPerage do we want from the street to the house? How many AMPS does your water feature pumps use? It got pretty extensive. Enjoyed the time spent. It's amazing when you see yourself walking thru your home and knowing where you'll want to turn on and off a light. It may seem a little overkill to some, but I prefer to have it all there now rather than later. Much easier. Peace

Another thing that makes life a little easier, as long as you're at it, is USB charging outlets. Anywhere you are charging a phone, pad, or other device, these are super handy and easy to install up front. No need to worry losing your charging adapter, all you need is a cheap USB cable. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Decora-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-and-USB-Charger-White-3-Pack-M02-T5632-3BW/301351320

and you if have a lot of devices, and/or want to future proof, you can get the outlets with USB type A and Type C ports 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Decora-Type-A-and-C-USB-Charger-Tamper-Resistant-Outlet-White-R02-T5633-0BW/303205383#product-overview

4 hours ago, L.R.S. said:

If you're only getting a 18-20' trailer your back tires will not be on the fenders. 

may be correct depending on what I end up with.... although on my last 18' + round nose trailer, the rear tires of the buggy were pretty close being straight above the rear wheels of the trailer...Although with that Manx I could just squeeze between the fender wheels 

rears may have to sit on the wells during transport, depending on what trailer I end up with....shopping for an enclosed right now, limited selection out there, but need to keep the overall length of the trailer as short as possible due to storage location (so 18' to 20' max length) 

I have to double check, but I was also thinking the tires will be like 3/4 or more on the wood support and 1/4 on the fender well. So I could make the wood support just slightly higher to reduce load on fender wells

Looking to make drive over fender wells on a basic enclosed trailer. if you don't have metal fab equipment, any better ideas than shaping a  couple of 4"x6" (or appropriate size piece of wood or gluelam) and bolting them next to the stock fender wells? 

Thx. 

that looks like an incredible car, congrats to the new owner.