Fireballsocal

9 minutes ago, Bansh88 said:

That starts in '24.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a38004981/california-ban-gas-powered-lawn-equipment/

I wonder if charcoal is next. From an emissions standpoint. 

One good idea with a cashier's check is to verify the funds. This only works if the issuing bank is open but I set up my sales that require a cashier's check so the buyer knows what will be required. I then call the issuing bank and verify the check is live. I find the public phone number listed on the banks website. I don't trust the phone number on the check itself. My credit union told me that once a check is issued, it can't be cancelled unless the check is handed back in. 

Interesting first post. 

There are ducted ductless mini splits. They get more complicated and expensive but you can get a solution for just about any house. 

Mitsubishi seems to be the top brand. Longest lasting, with an excellent reputation. Mr. Cool focuses on the do it yourself crowd. Their product is a very easy install and works well. Are you looking for a cadillac multizone system or just a budget single zone setup?

I dig the tech. I think plug in hybrids are great choices for the here and now if the here and now sold them at MSRP and there were some available for purchase. Pricing is good, you can run about on pure EV if you have short commutes but don't have to fear range anxiety because the gas engine kicks in when needed. Plug it in when at home or at a work charger or don't ever plug it in. 

  The biggest hurdle for pure EV's is the cost of the batteries. You pay a lot up front. When you get to the end of the batteries life, the vehicle is essentially a throwaway because a new battery costs as much as the residual value of the vehicle. Cells/modules can be changed out, sure, but because the vehicles aren't built for easy battery maintenance, it won't get done except for a few true believers. 

  That's one plus of the plug in hybrids. The hybrid batteries are much less expensive yet for the right user, can give a large part of the utility that a full EV can give. 

21 minutes ago, ChEFF said:

Installed a couple garage doors yesterday. One of the pre wired photo eye wire was dead. Door will not operate. And the wire is inside the wall already spray foamed. How is the electrician going to run another wire? Going to suck to have to run a wire old school way......stapled to the ceiling! Peace

Cut and splice where the wire comes out of the wall ChEFF. Instead of replacing an eye and wiring that was damaged from the sun, that's what I did. Butt connectors work just fine unless you want to get fancy and solder it with shrink wrap. 

47 minutes ago, MWB said:

 before it gets to hot and sticky outside. 

 

 

Hah!

That turned out pretty good! 

Lets see the welds. 

The thinking went 2 ways that I knew of. The layer of shine acted like magnifying glasses and caused the sun to prematurely crack the rubber. The other line of thinking was that the chemicals in the shine dried out the rubber. I stopped worrying about it at some point and just quit using the shine. I lived on a dirt road and it attracted the dust. If you will wear out the tires in 7 years or less, use it if you want is my advice. I had very expensive Michelins that cracked around the sidewalls in 2 years. Freaked me out enough that I talked to an area michelin rep who said the higher natural rubber content is what causes the cracking, but it's just cosmetic. They never leaked air even at 7 years when I sold the truck and they didn't have tire shine on them ever. 

No need to bleed off but shut the tank off after use. Then, purge the line of air before using again. Some welders have a purge function that kicks on the gas without running out wire. I don't see that option on your welder so unhook the clamp that clamps the wire into the guide roller. When you hit the trigger, the guide roller will still try to feed but since it is unclamped, won't. The gas will be activated though and will purge the air out of the line. Do that for 2-3 seconds, fasten the guide wheel clamp, and you're good to go. 

went back up 30 basis points to 5.4 today. 

Some good advice already given. Practice on some similar scrap is what I would echo. Turn the voltage way down and see what it does. Turn the wire feed way down and see what it does. The settings on the lid will give you a good baseline and turning down both inputs to the extreme will show you what not to do. It's important to know what not to do also. Weldtube and some of the other welding channels on youtube can show you a basic pattern to use when running a bead but it takes time to make a nice looking weld bead. I started out on a similar machine just welding. I sucked. I would have learned much faster with a teacher but I did ok. I can't pass a real welding test but I can run a decent bead and definitely can stick two pieces of mild steel together. On my little hobart, I ran voltage all the way up and wire speed pretty close to it. It does OK. Only till I started running a much more powerful 480 machine at work did I see how much harder using the little guy was to get clean looking welds. 

She just got on my radar though she has been very successful in the UK for years. I love the accent. These aren't work or family friendly . I've watched a few hours of her youtube stuff. 

1 hour ago, zilla68 said:

our fill rate is about 75% and fill rate on what we can actually get and ship is about 93%

We were around 60% at our lowest as I understand. Maybe November of last year, maybe January of this year. I don't know where we are at now but 75% sounds pretty close. I don't know what order fulfillment is. You doing 93% right now is fantastic.  

If I win this prize, I promise to not only to share it with those of you who participate in this thread but also do my best to convince you to be absolutely wreckless while spending your filthy lucre on debauchery and unsound investments. Folks, let's have a blast. 

Major automotive parts warehouse. We are still trying to build inventory up from the last 2 years. Staffing is pretty close to 100% and the big boss tells us we will stop being made to work overtime by the end of August but most of us aren't so sure. No way prices will move down till we get back to a 98% fill rate. I assume that every other seller will be in the same position, just with differing time frames. I can't help with prices as I'm not in on that end of the business. 

Come on out to Rialto. 

56 minutes ago, Pennywise said:

Flip the main off and back feed the panel from your geni through a breaker. 

Illegal. Safe if done properly but should you make a mistake, it may cost a lineman their life. Better to spend a tad more money for a generator interlock switch. Same principle but legal, safe, and affordable.  https://interlockkit.com/

15 hours ago, TheLatinLover said:

 

They must be cash buyers because with interest rates in the 5% range, payments are getting up there.

That's what I figured but it was in for a 28 day escrow. Cash offers go through a much quicker escrow unless the buyer or seller stipulates the full 30 day. 

Sold for $50K over asking. Not bad. 

Bosch for a dishwasher. GE, GE Profile, or kenmore elite for the other appliances. Bosch just makes a great dishwasher, way above other brands. I don't like the Korean brands for kitchen appliances but I loved my LG front loaders. It seems that all of the brands have taken a dive in reliability and prices have just gotten stupid high. 

I bought a new trek slash 8 (Aluminum 29er) last year and what a difference there is in this slack modern bike compared to my old ancient 26" wheel mountain bike. I haven't been riding it much at all unfortunately. When I had, it's a hard bike to jump. What I mean is that the old bike popped off every little rock and root whereas this thing just soaks it all up. It will jump but I need to put work into it. Adjusting my riding style will be huge. 

Gamo whisper .22 here. I've used it to remove ground squirrels that were living in my backyard in the city. It is very powerful and the pellets go through the squirrels. My only problem has been keeping a scope on it. It walks its way out from under the scope after 20-30 shots. It has a weaver type scope rail (Not picatinny) that no matter how much I tighten the rings, the scope will come off. I even tried my .22 nikon scope with weaver rings and it wouldn't stay on either.