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On 12/22/2021 at 1:21 PM, Grease Monkey said:

Yes, We will have a weight tonight!!!

Did I miss the result? 

-TJ

50 minutes ago, acefuture said:

If you’re using an exchange to trade and keeping your crypto in a wallet or ledger on the block chain you won’t necessarily be targeted. But as soon as a gain is realized by transferring that crypto to cash, that’s where Uncle Sam gets his cut. 

Yup, that is the problem.  When you want to realize your gains, the IRS will find a way to Eff you.  

18 minutes ago, ANGRYBUTTCRACK said:

All true what has been said here about the IRS. As some might know I'm anti Crypto as it is a Ponzi scheme. .. it's just a wealth transfer from early adopters to late adopters/buyers. The 'late' buyers are simply going to be transferring their money to the early adopters (if they sell before it crashes).

Also, this notion that the government can't 'regulate' or 'stop' crypto is Ludacris.  All they have to do is make exchanges ILLEGAL. You can't use it to buy/sell things (nobody does) and if there is no legal means to get in or get out (to USD or other fiat currency),...  it's DONE.

I have many friends who are 7-8 figure crypto millionaires (on digital paper ) and I always try to convince them to diverse into real-estate or some other tangible asset cause most of these dudes net worth is over 95% crypto (again on digital paper). I have no issue with anyone doing whatever they please with their money and I don't think they should 'outlaw' it, but I think if you're looking to 'invest' in crypto, don't put in anymore than you'd be willing to lose at the blackjack table...

Good luck to you all.

Sincerely,

 

abc

 

You can say Crypto isn't real, and is just a Ponzi scheme... but I have friends who have bought houses cash from crypto-gains.  That's real enough for me.  And if this clown-show administration has taught us anything it's that the USD is fake and will be devalued increasingly.  Now, your point about the exchanges or other legal actions is fair.  Look at XRP's value after the SEC brought the lawsuits against Ripple founders/C-suite.  I'm pretty optimistic that Ripple will win, which will cause a XRP spike, so I'm HODL on my XRP (which is already net-positive).  

Overall I look at crypto like an extremely volatile, high-risk investment - more like a gamble.  I'm willing to roll the dice on a little chunk 'o change for possible big upside, but know it could all go to $0.00 at any moment.  Like I said, I have friends that have bought homes or other real estate w/ crypto earnings (yes, they had to turn it into USD and pay the taxes).  I have a buddy making about 20k USD/mo staking AVAX because he bought into the ICO early and cheap.  He has good tax people, and is making it all legit, at least as much as is actually possible right now.  

-TJ

As stated above, it's all in *how* you buy and sell it.  It also differs from crypto to crypto and how they maintain their ledgers.  With *most* cryptos, if you're trading wallet to wallet the Gov has no idea.  It's when you want to turn that into cash or goods that you might have an issue.  Say you want to buy a Tesla with crypto (though, Elon shut that down, supposedly because of the power implications of Bitcoin mining), I'm sure Tesla would report that somehow.  Or, if you want to actually sell (as opposed to just move crypto around) for USD then @cek's advice comes in.  

-TJ

7 hours ago, Grant@Funco said:

 

ACBF5818-8493-4ED5-A9AC-337F9055BA5A.MOV IMG_0089.MOV

ACBF5818-8493-4ED5-A9AC-337F9055BA5A.MOV

You the man @Grant@Funco, that car came out amazing!!!

-TJ

I might have missed it, 4.0L (I guess it has to be w/ the factory 44)?  Any interior pics?  Is it daily-able (for a Jeep person, that is)?  What lockers? 

-TJ

We need pics NOW @Grant@Funco😉 😄

-TJ

4 hours ago, acefuture said:

So in doing more research of the CP4 issues, it seems as though one of my choices being the '15-newer 6.7L all have a CP4. They used an electric lift pump which the LML did not, so that's a plus. But now has me rethinking that option

If you're not open to having a CP4.2 then you can rule out '11+ Duramax, '15+ PSD, and a few specific year Cummins (but TBH I forget the exact years).  There are millions and millions of CP4.2 trucks out there, the failure rate is actually super low.  It is a nightmare IF it does fail though.  So, IMHO I'd just replace the CP4.2 if you get a used truck with one, and make sure you have a lift pump and added filtration (and a good fuel additive doesn't hurt).  Just factor that cost into your budget, like I said I spent ~3k when I had my CP4.2 replaced, but I had TONS of other stuff replaced at the same time (all stuff that I'd want replaced on any decade-old truck, like water pump, hoses, belts, pulleys, etc.). 

-TJ

4 hours ago, John@Outfront said:

That 645 hp ^^^^^was at the engine

Gotcha.  Should be a dune weapon. 

-TJ

28 minutes ago, SLIM said:

Personally, I would rather have the LMM with a proven CP3 pump and not have to add DEF, vs the LML that requires you to add DEF,  and also have to worry about the CP4 pump shelling out the entire fuel $ystem.  Both are great trucks.

I get it, and it's certainly a personal preference thing.  If it were just the engine/trans changes, I might agree.  But with the entirely new frame front to back, wider leaf springs, much bigger front suspension and steering components etc. I Like the LML gen.  

-TJ

3 hours ago, TheLatinLover said:

You post the most useful information on this forum!  Anytime you post, I find myself compelled to read every word of your posts…something I don’t do.  I also typically bookmark them.  
 

You’re fasho invited to the carne asada here in Knoxville (and FL when my place is finished) if you ever find yourself out this way.  

Awww shucks, you're making me blush!  But, is "carne asada" code for something?  Now I'm scared. 😉  Seriously though, thanks for the kind words... I enjoy writing this stuff and am always pumped when folks find my ramblings useful. 

-TJ

I'm talking GM.

11 minutes ago, mark5193 said:

the big hemi in the ram 2500 is also something to consider.

Yeah, the 6.4 isn't too bad.  Though, it's honestly out-classed by Ford's 7.3 gasser and the 10-speed, which was one of my hang-ups with the Power Wagons. 

-TJ
 

4 hours ago, adam909 said:

It sounds like you have a good understanding of the cp4 and the damage it could do..   The cp4 has no shelf life it can grenade at 2k miles or never be a issue..  Unfortunately with the shitty Design of how the pistion can rotate any time on the cam its just a matter of when.. Lift pumps might help alittle but will not stop a cp4 from grenading.We all know the reason why chevy, Ram,Ford went back to the Cp3 pumps due to they last and issue free.. 

I disagree, 99% of failures are after 100k and never on trucks with lift pumps and filtration. 

-TJ

15 hours ago, adam909 said:

I stay pretty up to date on all the diesel forums and you really cant go wrong with the 3 to choose from..  If you went brand new.. Seems like they all fixed a big issue that all 3 had going and that was the cp4 fuel pump..  If your choosing to buy a couple years old you will need to do your home work due to the famous cp4 issues..  I would not buy a diesel with a cp4.   Its just a ticking time bomb that will eventually be a 8k dollar repair..  My vote would be the  the 4 gen rams..  Thats if you wanted a proven truck without any big issues..  The best option would be the 06 lbz durmax but its tough to find a low mile truck with out all the paint flaking off.. Any of the 3 diesels that have DPF systems will sooner or later be a issue..  Seems like im always reading on all the forums thats a main issue that these trucks have.. Sooner or later the dpf system will go out and its going to cost and it dosnt matter what brand you have.. 

I have a 2011 LML, so I have the "dreaded" CP4.2.  I've had a lift pump and filtration on it since ~5k miles (at about 130k miles now) and I've never had a hiccup w/ the 4.2.  That said, around 100k miles I had the CP4.2 replaced as a precautionary measure.  I thought about a modded pump, or swapping to a CP3 setup, but in the end I was totally happy with the OG 4.2 for the first 100k miles, and if I swap 'em every 100k just to feel better about it, I don't mind. 

The 4.2 that's now in my truck has never run without a lift pump, triple filtration and good fuel treatment (I use Stanadyne performance formula).  When I hit 200k, I'll swap the 4.2 again.  I had it done at a dealership, but my buddy runs parts and service there.  Still, he really can't "help" me or fudge the numbers since he has a tech doing the work and it's all "book time" stuff.  What he did do; and any dealer should also do, is adjust numbers if you do anything else at the same time that's already coming apart.  I chose to have the water pump, both t-stats, every single belt/hose, all the idler/tensioners, various misc gaskets or other soft-parts, and a few other things replaced while they had the front of the motor accessible. 

All-in it was something like a $2500 job, maybe 3k I forget.  I put about 10k miles on my truck a year (hopefully going up as I'm converting it to "Overland" duties - prob start a thread on that soon) and have owned it since new.  It was purchased in late-Oct of '10 so I've had it over 11 years now.  If you amortize the cost of the whole CP4.2 job including all the extras I threw in (that will need replaced every decade on ANY truck), using the high-end ($3k) it's something like $270/yr.  I'm okay with that - I  guess others might not be, but to me it's not worth going and buying a $80k truck and spending the $20k on mods (lift/wheels/tires/stereo/delete/tunes/etc.) that I know I'd spend just to avoid the CP4.2.

-TJ

I just have audio, no vid showing... 645HP to the tire on 13psi!?!

-TJ

16 minutes ago, Bldrinker said:

Granger Ford Iowa. They give the same deal to anyone ordering. 

IDK what it is with Iowa, but when we were ordering the TRX there was a dealer in Iowa going $8k below MSRP.  Most other dealers were $5-20k OVER.  We ended up going with a more local dealer, who couldn't match that $8k off MSRP, but are giving us a lot for our Trackhawk and in NV the trade-in value is deducted from the new vehicle price for tax purposes, so it worked out close 'nough in the wash to not be worth driving a brand new TRX home from Iowa in the peak of winter salt. 

-TJ
 

19 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Yep.  Assuming the dollar doesn't crash first.  Might just have a wheelbarrow full of paper you can trade for a Snickers...

  Not if I put those dollars into the right things... def don't want to sit on too much cash in this market/inflation.  

13 minutes ago, ROBERT L said:

So what happened to the cool cars?

Oh, whoops, did we let a conversation happen on a forum!?!

-TJ

4 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

 

Goddam pedants!

I mean: people buying USED GT3s for more than a NEW GT3 and the odd production numbers to cause it.

Also: everything has appreciated lately.  Hell, my Mustang is still worth more than MSRP on a new one, and that was before F3rd announced it would lose "10 horsepower" over the 2021s.  Quotes because 2018+ Coyotes generally make almost as much at the wheels as they're advertised at the crank.  My guess is they actually make 450hp now, where they made near 500hp before.

Yeah, our Trackhawk is worth way more than we paid for it, so is our RV.  Might just be selling a lot of chit right now and hunkering down for the market crash OBiden is bringing about... 

-TJ

9 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

Makes about as much sense as tits on a hog...

You mean the fact that it *can* be done, or the fact that people *do* it?  If the former, I guess I agree but it's just the way the Porsche market is: limited allocations for the special cars, demand seems to only build once they stop making given car, all demand no supply.  If the latter, why not?  These guys are in a place where having a couple hundred grand "invested" in a car is nothing, and if they can beat on it for 2-3yrs and sell it with a 20-30% return, it's both a great investment and super fun.  I tangentially know another guy that's in Ferrari's "La Cliente" program.  He gets to buy every new Ferrari model that comes out, but he has to buy one of every new model that comes out.  So he was "stuck" buying turds like the California (then again when the California T came out) which he tends to just immediately sell at a big loss to friends.  But, every few years something like the Ferrari The Ferrari (La Ferrari) comes out, and he gets to buy one at MSRP.  He spec'ed his nicely, drove it for ~3 years (including lots of tracking), then sold it for like $3M+ (against a purchase price of ~$1.5M).  Basically he gets to have all the new Ferraris and in the long-run makes money. 

-TJ 

4 minutes ago, Surf and Dune said:

 I was quoted 30k from my local dealer and am considering getting the allocation. The spec I would build would be right at 200k, plus the 30k markup, which is not much more than 991.2s are getting with 10k miles. There's a bunch of 992s on the market for about 300k. Reality is that at 230k, you could drive it for a couple years or so and sell it for what you paid. 

Exactly.  I can't play in that game, but I have a buddy that's had a few RS cars and he's always managed to buy them well, drive them for a few years (including track use) then sell at a *profit*. 

-TJ

4 minutes ago, cek said:

I had a Turbo S and wanted a 992 GT3 but they are getting 50-100k over msrp. Decided to get something else for now. I’ll get one eventually.  

C'mon, post that something else, it's not exactly a slouch!  😉 😄

-TJ

When it comes to D'max you either want the '06-early '07 ("cat-eye" body style, not the new body '07.5) or you want a '11+.  The '06-early '07 are the LBZ with a 6-speed Allison, prior to '06 it was a '05 speed which was a little weaker in some areas, and various different versions of the D'max (LB7, LLY).  People love the LBZ because it got a power bump, has a cat but no DPF, and like I said got the 6-speed.  '07.5-10 were the LMM which *would* be another great Duramax, but it got a DPF and I'm not a fan of the regen strategy (injecting fuel on the exhaust stroke).  '11+ is the LML, which saw an upgrade to the 6-speed Allison, a completely new frame (even though the cab and bed look nearly identical to the LMM generation, inside and out), bigger brakes, beefier suspension/steering components, etc.  The downside of a LML is it did add DEF, but at least it has a sane regen strategy (9th injector in the downpipe, low pressure).  The L5P came around in '17 and got a good power bump, but those are going to be spendy trucks.

-TJ

3 hours ago, Kraut_n_Rice said:

Why do all BMW nerds refer to their car by Exx instead of what's on the trunk lid, like everyone else?

The Exx and Fxx (and now Gxx) are not the model (which is what's on the trunk, as you put it) they are the chassis designation.  Roughly, they equate to generations, E36 for example being '90-00 ('00 only in the little 3-door hatch) model years encompassing 2 door, 4 door, wagon, 3 door hatch, etc.  In the newer stuff (Fxx and newer, I believe) the chassis code also designates 2 vs. 4 door or wagon.  For example, F30 being a regular 4 door sedan, F31 being a wagon, F34 being a 5-door hatch thing but NOT a wagon, etc.  Within a designation, like F30, you can still have different model designations like 320i, 335i, etc. which is what's on the trunk lid.  

The closest parallel would be C1, C2, C3... C8 etc.  Within a given body, like C6 there could be base coupe/targas, Z06s, ZR1s, etc. 

-TJ

5 minutes ago, Rockwood said:

 

You guys must’ve been pimps in High School…

Can I make you a drink?

-TJ

58 minutes ago, Justdirt said:

1984 Buick GN 36k original miles

Winner.

-TJ