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Five.five-six last won the day on June 11 2021

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  1. Still waiting for an engine 😞. I’ve started working on other things now. I’m having a new center consul made for the keypad and intercom old one new one
  2. It does, I just don’k know if I’ll even get a trip in this season 😞 I also bought a boat…. Which means I’m now running low on disposable cash 😞
  3. My builder caught rohna a few weeks back, now his whole shop is out with the Kung Flu…. I have it on good authority he is working on my long block now and it may be done as soone as the end of next week. I’ve already paid Greg Holeman to build the exhaust… chassis Harris is almost done and what I have left is the engine harness, a day or two on the dyno and get my ass to the dunes!
  4. Well, my heads are done…. That’s progress
  5. A few. Co2 is an acid and depending on tire composition it could be a problem. Co2 will slow leak through the rubber on most tires. Nitrogen has a much better temperature coefficient than air, Co2 is worse. Tire pressure will change less with temperature. all that said, I’ve used Co2 for years but now that I have a nitrogen bottle, that’s what I’m using.
  6. The price they quoted me is actually substantially less than what my current builder has told me.
  7. This isn’t that, he has all the parts and it’s been 9 months. Once I get the engine back, it’s off to Greg Holeman with the turbo to get the exhaust built. Then I need to build the engine harness and then tune and program it 😞 I’m 3-5 weeks out once I get the engine back.
  8. This is frustrating, my builder just isn’t getting it done 😞. Going on 9 months now. I’m going to miss at least 1/2 the season 😞 I’ve made an appointment with paradise VW for January. If he doesn’t have it done by new years, I’m going over there, paying him for what he’s done and picking up my parts.
  9. DR-25 and deutsch connectors is really the way to go, word of caution about the raychem heat shrink, you can put a lot more heat to it than you do to hardware store heat shrink and you have to in order to get the glue to melt properly. The issue is that regular automotive primary wire, the insulation will melt and that’s bad. Aviation and milspec wire is expensive but makes a world of difference. Another giant step towards reliability is to get away from switches, fuses and relays. A good PDM and keypad is a lot more reliable than switches and relays an there’s no fuses. If you overcurrent, you can specify in programming the number of retries and time between retries. But you’ll never be out in the dunes looking for a fuse. The other nice thing about a PDM is you setup the car and it will tell you that your light bar is using let.s say 19 amps. Well you’re stuck with either a 20 or 25 amp fuse but with a PDM, just add 15, or 20% and sett then overcurrent limit to 23 amps Now the overcurrent device doesn’t just protect the wire, it also offers some protection to the equipment I’m just getting started wiring my car right now
  10. I spent the weekend working on the AIM PDMs on a class 1 car with MoTeC ECU and I have to say, that AIM PDM is pretty slick. It has some limitations not found in the MoTeC PDMs like CAN messaging across PDMs but it also does some really nice things like the ability to pair 1/2 bridge outputs and have a reversing polarity solid state output for moving light bars or power seats without using relays. Also, the AIM peripheral, while not up to par for the 1000, are plenty good for a recreational vehicle for 1/3 the cost It was like $200 to ditch my rear view mirror and put in a backup camera. The GPS is practically free compared to MoTech pricing. The AIM PDM32 is physically 2X the size of the MoTech and they use an aluminum housing to dissipate heat which is probably how they sell it for under 1/2 the price of MoTech The connectors aren’t as good however I do like the power connector better than MoTeC. Built in “soft start” options are nice for various things Also, complete complement of circuit output indicators (LEDs) is useful in setup and troubleshooting. Also has built in soft start/ soft stop option for ramping up and down fans, I’m hoping it works on my interior and work lights. My tuner had a couple cars that did quite well in the 1000, and my builder had a lot of them that did well. If I have to change builders, that will suck. Paradise did quote me a substantially lower price to assemble the long block but I’d still rather have my current guy put it together. Don’t get me wrong, I can put a type 1 together probably better than 90% of the guys out there but I can’t do it as well as someone with decades of experience. I’ll use 1211 on everything, these guys have like 20 different adhesives for different parts of the engine. I don’t know where .010 over or under is a problem or not worth worrying about.

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