tjZ06

6 minutes ago, URCLEVER said:

Damn I just traded in my 2020 Tremor for 55K, would of been a great truck for somebody. good luck I waited 10 months for my F450

I should have bought that...

-TJ

This thing is still for sale, and the seller is ready to make a smoking deal for someone... 

-TJ

30' is the max, bumper pull only? 

-TJ
 

On 4/20/2024 at 4:13 PM, dbart said:

Yeah tried looking up that route, but not having any luck.  Must be the beer! 

Sorry... few days behind getting you this stuff.  So this is the trail down out of Mesquite I use: https://www.trailsoffroad.com/US/nevada/trails/4176-lime-kiln-canyon  I can't add my track or screenshots or anything from the machine I'm at right now, so I'll add that stuff later.  You take Line Kiln down just like that link above, but at the end of the trail at (point 17 in that link) you turn Southwest onto "County Highway 101" and run that 'til you hit New Gold Butte road.  IIRC you still have some of that crappy pavement section, but you cut most of it off, might have been all.  That said, if you turn Northeast at that same junction you can run trails all the way up to St. George and there are some stunning views and awesome campsites.  If you've already done the "tourist" thing and done the whole Gold Butte Backcountry Byway, I'd go the other way.  As you come out of Mesquite on Lime Kiln there are plenty of areas you could stage trucks/trailers and I often seem some out there.  I'm not super sure how I'd feel about security, but I can't imagine it's any different than leaving them at the start of the GBBB

-TJ

On 4/16/2024 at 11:18 AM, Rockwood said:

Associated?  Nope.  TLR 4 lyfe!

 

I was a Losi kid too.  I had a few cheap Tamiyas and stuff like that 'til I saved up for a XXT.  Then I'd take it all apart every few months and change... everything.  Everything I could change for CF, got changed.  Everything I could change for Ti, got changed.  I had multiple shock setups so I could swap 'em in and out for a low street setup vs. dirt.  I would mess endlessly with the valving (had the cool floating pistons to make different rates for compression vs. rebound), fluid viscosity etc. (in the slipper too)... 

...I guess my issues started early.  I ended up trading it years later for the first exhaust for my '99 Z/28. 

-TJ

16 hours ago, Fireballsocal said:

I was watching a youtube mountain biking channel talking about the lack of availability for parts for a huge percentage of e bikes. Almost all of the chinese brands had little to no parts availability. I might consider either spending more on a brand with established parts supply chain (Still no guarantee you can get parts in 10 years) or stick with a cheaper model and consider it a throwaway. 

That's one of the things I love about my Santa Cruz bikes: lifetime warranty on frame (and all pivot points), all top-notch components from brands that have been around for decades (and presumably will be for decades more), and the best customer service in the industry.  Of course, I'm a full on SC fanboi having been born/raised there... 

-TJ

2 hours ago, dbart said:

@tjZ06 The area was really cool, however.... the 20 mile drive in on Gold Butte road, sucked Donkey Balls!

Potholes everywhere, washed out, rutted mess! That's an hour drive at least, but once you are there it was worth it.

If you have a back way in to the area or another area to camp close to there, I'd be up for it.

 

Yeah, that rode blows.  The first time I went out there I came in the "back way" and we left that way.  I made the mistake of stopping and airing up when we hit "pavement" only to find it was way worse than the dirt, lol.  The back way is via Lime Kiln, I'll post the track later...

-TJ

Building is a cool option, for sure.  With the kits that are out there you can get a throttle, more power, and more MPH than the OEM Class 1 true e-bikes.  Just be aware, a lot of the kits don't work well on carbon (or particularly fat-tubed AL) frames.  I have friends that have used this setup on steel and AL framed MTBs and it works nice: https://lunacycle.com/bafang-bbshd-1000w-middrive-kit/  If you can find a good deal on a hardtail (personally, since weight "doesn't matter" with an e-bike I'd go steel, it rides so much nicer and less "buzzy" in the ole taint area than AL) and spec this kit reasonably you could build something pretty cool for ~$2k.

-TJ

For fun/science I did this ride on my older Hecker yesterday:

As it notes, I had the assist turned fully off.  With it off, this thing is a bit of a barge.  It weighs ~50lbs, has very high rolling resistance, and isn't especially aero either.  The ride was pretty flat, but anytime I did have a little climbing I really felt the weight.  Since assist was off, I think the calorie burn should be pretty accurate, and pretty well supports my theory that I can roughly take 40-50% off the Strava estimate when I do use assist.  I wouldn't say I was working particularly harder than if I did the same ride with assist, I just went probably 6-8miles less distance in the same time, and/or did way less climbing.  

Just some food for thought re: e-bikes... you can always turn 'em off! ;) 

-TJ

As I mentioned on the book of faces: awesome trip!  I've camped in that area a few times before (but all truck-based aka Broverlanding vs. SxS).  I'd be interested in your input on park/camp/staging areas and stuff doing it with SxSs.  Happy to share my tracks 'n stuff too.  I've gone all through Gold Butte National Monument, the Paiute Wilderness, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument etc.  BTW, great pics! 

-TJ

Congrats, super-rad and thank her for her service. 

-TJ

11 hours ago, matt86m said:

I could buy one of those if I had your $$$$$$ but my $ won't get it!  

Well, sounds like it's time to start shopping the used market. 

2 hours ago, Bansh88 said:

Bosses want us to buy e-bikes here at work (Parks stuff).  But I JUST KNOW, one of my guys will eat sh!t and hurt themselves.  Losing a guy for 3 months with a broken arm when staff is only 6 so the hippie box can get checked, no thanks!

I'm hard passing unless they make me buy one.

What are they/you using right now instead?  Does he want you to buy actual e-bikes (as I described, no throttle, only assisted and require pedaling) or pedal-assisted EVs (have a throttle)?  

-TJ

BTW, I helped that buddy that I mentioned just got a full susp eMTB so I looked at a lot of options, reviews, videos, etc.  I'd say buying new this is the best deal going for a budget eMTB right now: https://www.canyon.com/en-us/electric-bikes/electric-mountain-bikes/spectral-on/spectral-on-cf/spectral-on-cf-8/4030.html?dwvar_4030_pv_rahmenfarbe=BU%2FBU 

You can save another $300 and go one step further down https://www.canyon.com/en-us/electric-bikes/electric-mountain-bikes/spectral-on/spectral-on-cf/spectral-on-cf-7/4029.html?dwvar_4029_pv_rahmenfarbe=VT but the color is way worse (if you spend any time with cyclists, you'll realize looks and cool tech matter as much, or maybe more to us than they do to sand rail nerds :p ) and the wheel set and components are a notch up.

The other way to go is used.  Bikes are one of those things that everyone buys with the best dreams/intentions of riding every day and getting in shape and... and... and...  It turns out, few people follow through, as with most things that can be difficult in life.  You used to be able to find screaming deals on used bikes on CL if you knew what to look for.  It seems like most sellers have moved to FB Marketplace though, and a lot still think Covid pricing/supply shortages apply. 

Still, if you have a good eye and time to search (*cough*retired guy @matt86m *cough*) you can find some great deals. 

-TJ 

57 minutes ago, Jtmoney714 said:

How much for the xl?

I'll PM you...

-TJ

-TJ

Where to start, where to start...

I guess I'll start by addressing all the e-bike haters.  There are different types, or "classes" of e-bikes.  

The California vehicle code defines e-bikes as: “[A] bicycle equipped with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of less than 750 watts.” It further breaks e-bikes into three categories, following a classification system created by PeopleForBikes that has been adopted in 40 states.

• Class 1: Provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling and ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches a speed of 20 mph
• Class 2: Operates via pedal-assist or throttle and ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches a speed of 20 mph
• Class 3: Provides assistance only when the rider is pedaling and ceases to provide assistance when the bicycle reaches a speed of 28 mph

Most "stock" eMTBs are Class 1.  Some hybrids, roadies and "commuter" e-bikes are Class 3.  IIRC no OE "bicycle manufacturers" offer Class 2s, but IDK maybe there are some commuter type bikes with throttle, to be honest I've never shopped that market.  

So what does all of that mean, and why does it matter? 

Well getting back to the "haters", Class 1 and Class 3 e-bikes (the only things I really consider e-bikes, as opposed to pedal-assisted EVs) don't help unless you're putting effort in.  The assist you get is relative to the effort you put in: the harder you work, the more the bike will help (with a scale that's based on the setting you're in).  All (or nearly all) have various levels/settings of assist, including no assist.  There is no throttle, period.  You have to work for the bike to put in assist.  You have to work harder to get more assist.  And you can turn it off. 

I have two Santa Cruz Heckler eMTBs (one is a top-trim '23 in XL that's for sale, BTW... the other a top-trip '24 in L that I found fits me better) and they are both Class 1.  They actually begin to tapper assist out at ~17 MPH and feel like they're "done" helping more like 18-19 MPH than 20 MPH to me.  These bikes weigh ~50lbs, have giant tires with terrible rolling resistance, a ton of plush susp travel, and are generally inefficient machines.  I also have a '16 or '17 Santa Cruz Highball NON-e hardtail I have setup with some very fast tires (for "mountain bike" tires) and I'd say carrying 16-17 MPH on flat ground in the Highball is as easy, or easier than carrying 16-17 MPH on the same terrain on one of the eHecklers in the "Eco" (lowest assist mode, after off of course) mode.  Even in mild climbing it's about a wash, but on very steep climbs even in Eco the eHeckers are probably a bit easier... maybe.  

Last week I put ~62miles in across 2 rides exclusively on the eMTBs.  IIRC I did something like 5k feet of climbing in that mileage, I'll post the rides in a bit from another device.  I use Strava for ride tracking, and I have my age/height/weight and the bikes entered.  I also select "E-Mountain Bike Ride" when I record eMTB rides, so in theory Strava is working off of the knowledge it's an eMTB that is assisting.  Of course without a proper power meter setup (with the crankset containing the strain gauge so it's measuring the efforts *I* put in, before the assist) and without capturing heart rate it's a pretty wild guess.  Even if we assume they're 50% optimistic, at a "reported" 3k and 2k calories for the rides respectively, or ~5k total... a real world 2500 calories of burn is still pretty good.  And no matter how you slice it, it's ~4hrs I spent outside breathing fresh air with an elevated heart rate, not at my keyboard (or on the couch) which can't be a bad thing.

Sure, had I done the identical rides on a non-E bike in the same time/speed it would have been "better for me."  But I'm flat-out not capable of the two rides I did at this pace on a non-E bike.  I'd say generally I'm working as hard as I would on the eMTBs as I would be working on a non-E, I'm just going way further/faster and doing more climbing in the same time.  But if that's the case, why bother with the E?  Why not just do shorter (distance) rides in the same time?  Do less climbing etc.?  Well, that's a great question, and there's no single answer.  I still have my Highball to do just that, I just haven't gotten out on it recently (truth be told, after a winter of slacking off and excuses like holidays/weather/travel I've only been back on the bike in the last 2-3 weeks).  

I suppose the BEST thing to do would be to go out for the same amount of time on the non-E and push myself as hard as possible.  But that's not always possible in the real world.  A hill is a hill, or a stiff headwind is a stiff headwind, etc. no matter how you're feeling.  It's easier to hit your mental limit and give up or turn back if you don't have a crutch to fall back on (yes, I recognize the assist is a crutch, in a way).  With the E-bike you don't have that apprehension about attacking the next climb, or "taking the loop one more time", or riding on a day you don't feel 100%, etc.  

And let's not forget you can turn the assist down, or off.  I do a ride often on Tuesdays with a buddy that works semi-local to me.  After work I ride ~9 miles to meet up with him, I use assist for this to make it as fast as possible.  Generally on that ride when I look at the data I'm hovering in the 18 MPH range (it's a mostly flat, non-technical ride to our meet up spot).  Basically I'm pushing as hard as I can hovering between where the bike is helping, and where it's not.  No, I couldn't maintain 18 MPH w/o the assist on that bike, but I'm also not just sitting back twisting a throttle (remember, there is NO throttle on a Class 1 or 3).  Then when we meet up I turn assist completely off.  He rides a kind of hybrid/commuter non-E bike (well, rode... he just bought an eMTB) and overall he's slower than me.  Where we ride is basically all compacted granite or gravel bike paths, so his bike is faster/more efficient.  But I'm faster than him, so having my tank turned off levels the playing field and we can ride together without me feeling like I'm not getting any workout in.  We usually do about 15 miles that way, then split off at the same point (meaning I have ~9mi still to ride back).  For the ride back I put the assist back on, and depending on how much I'm racing the sunset, I might even set it up all the way to "boost" and try to really jam.  All in I'm riding ~33mi with a bit under half being no assist.  Again, would it be better if I did the exact same thing on my non-E Highball?  Sure.  Is it likely I would do it?  No, not at all.  

Also, there's the aspect of leveling the playing field.  I'm around 6', and right now about 210lbs (like I said... I let things go a bit over the winter  ) but I have riding buddies that are half a foot shorter than me and at least 50-60lbs lighter and a decade younger.  They also ride 5-7 days a week (literally).  There's just no world where I'll ever be able to hang with them naturally.  So before the eMTBs going riding with them was kind of a drag, for everyone.  I felt super self-conscious about it, like I was holding everyone up and ruining their ride/workout (because, let's be honest, I was) and I'm sure they were annoyed having to wait on me.  It basically led to avoiding that group/those rides.  Since these guys aren't douches, they don't care that I show up on an eMTB now, because we can all hit the ride and be pushing ourselves to our own personal limits, but ride together. 

The bottom line is since I bought my first eMTB the amount of time I spent riding went way, way up.  My fitness level definitely improved, and I see/feel the results in my legs and otherwise.  Whether some (or all of it) is just the mental thing that knowing I'm going out on the eMTB gets me out the door when I might otherwise have stayed in, I don't know.  But it DOES GET ME OUT THE DOOR.  And that's worth the $.

Back on topic @matt86m, as for what e-bike to buy, well that's a complicated topic too.  If you intend to mostly use it on trails as you stated, I'd say a "traditional" full suspension eMTB.  I say "traditional" to mean, not some goofy ass fat-tire thing, not some pseudo-motorcycle looking thing, but a thing that looks like a good ole mountain bike and behaves like one too.  My Santa Cruz Hecklers are basically electrified Santa Cruz Bronsons.  You get lots of plush suspension, big tire (NOT fat tire) grip/comfort, and the E makes up for the giant weight and efficiency hits (though the SC full suspension bikes are very efficient *for full susp* with the VPP tech) vs. a hardtail like my Highball.  You also don't look like a total dingus on a fake motorcycle thing (sorry Glamis Mike ;) ) or some hipster fixed frame/fork fat tire BS.  However, I will say I can't really recommend anything to you at the sub-$2k price point.  You get what you pay for (to an extent) and $2k just don't go far enough to have a quality full susp frame, quality fork/rear shock, quality components, quality e-drivetrain, quality wheelset etc.  And when I say quality I don't mean "top notch" or "over the top."  I mean reliable and functional.  Any sub-$2k full susp eMTB is going to have issues and let you down in some way.  E-bikes are particularly sensitive to quality rear derailleurs (well, front or rear, but I'd only by a 1x setup on just about any bike these days), which get expensive.  And the tech can get wild... 

Speaking of tech... the drivetrain on my newer Heckler actually uses timing marks on the rear cogs to phase/time gear changes. 

"Combined with X-Sync teeth, the cassette has specific shift lanes that permit or block the chain from moving to the next gear. Specific shift ramps, according to SRAM, mean the chain is always in permanent contact with the cassette as it shifts."  This is the magic and means no clunky-thunky shifting even when under power with assist on.  "Shift ramps and X-Sync teeth are combined with firmware-based derailleur Cassette Mapping. The timing created by the cassette’s X-Sync tooth pattern means the derailleur’s shift sequence aligns with the shift ramps; it only shifts to the next gear when it is permitted to do so by the cassette and when the firmware knows a ramp is ‘available’."  

In effect, it acts a bit like how a DCT is still engaging the "previous" gear as it starts to engage the "next" gear.  When you shift it keeps the chain engaged with the previous cog as it begins engagement with the next, so there's no dead-time and there's no big "hit" and clunk between gears even shifting while putting in full power (I've always let up on power input while keeping the cranks moving as I've shifted on bikes to avoid this, but it's super hard to do on a E-bike as it's tough to get all the timing just right with the electric assist).  I can tell a huge difference in how my '24 with this tech shifts vs. my '23.  Also, the '24 has 4-piston calipers and semi-floating rotors, lol.

-TJ

53 minutes ago, South Bay said:

 

Now Norm is one I miss... OJ, not so much.

-TJ

1 hour ago, Realbadlarry said:

...but stranded in a 2000?  was it abused as a child? 

That's a ~24 year old truck now.  @acefuture didn't mention the miles on it, but it could be 30,000 or 3,000,000... 

-TJ
 

On 2/15/2024 at 8:19 PM, Bobalos said:

Does something like this have brakes on 2 Axles or 3?  

 

All 3.

Also, the seller will take $20k, but that's the true bottom-dollar.  It's insane you can barely buy an empty box trailer this size for $20k, or maybe you can't.  For $20k you get a bitchen, clean, solid trailer where *everything* works.  

-TJ

I love how it's all contained on/in your cart, including things like the power washer and products.  I used to run this: https://crspotless.com/product/dic-20/ but gave it away when I moved, and haven't rebought.  I can say though, it works really, really well.

-TJ

1 hour ago, John@Outfront said:

A few weeks ago 9 of my buddies and 6 SXS did 1400 miles in baja (7 days). started at Tecate and went to the Bay of LA (furthest south, thats 9 hours by car) and back.  $500 in SXS fuel.  total combined repairs on cars was only 1 tire change, one belt slipping--CEL on, and one cracked rear arm that we bent/wenched back into position and welded it.

 

our leader Tim Bielski (he must be a distant cousin of mine) did the video and drone and we are awaiting our "Taco Tuesday" to see the whole movie.  this is the trailer.............

 

That's a dream of mine, I *have* to do that some day.

-TJ

1 hour ago, ChEFF said:

Start your own company! Peace

@URCLEVER owns/operates his own company. ;) 

-TJ

Sorry, trying to be a bit more on topic here...

IMHO use the silicon valley model, make him invested in the success of the business, or at least his business unit.  I don't pretend to understand the complexities of your business, but in a sense it's a production business.  Throughput is important, while maintaining the quality that you have built your name on.  So, I'd go back to him and be very blunt about your concerns.  He needs to refocus, dedicate his work time to productivity, and not distract others.  Let him know if he can do that, you will meet a small portion (let's call it 20%) of his requested raise as pure cash comp, but you will give him the opportunity to meet or exceed the the delta through a bonus structure (you mentioned you already do bonuses and profit sharing, so obv it'd have to jibe with that stuff).  I'm not sure how easy it is to quantify output from the team he's responsible for, but if it's possible, maybe structure something like:

* If you hit current average production, no additional $ (aka, he only gets the cash raise that equates to ~20% of his requested total) 

* From there make a scale that makes sense to you, which tops out with him actually getting 120% of his requested raise.  Again at 0% growth he gets 20% of his request... but let's say for every 2% growth in output for his team he gets 10% additional of his request capping at 120%.  If he grows his team's output by 8% he'll get an additional 40% of his requested total... bringing him to 60% what of what he wanted.  If he grows his section's output by 16% he'll get his full 100%, but if he actually grows his team's output by 20% he'll get 120% of what he requested.  It gives him a chance to actually over-achieve and earn more than what was probably a moon-shot request on his part. 

Obv those are just out my ass numbers... but you get the idea.  20% growth in output for his team might be too easy of a target... or it might be totally unattainable, IDK.  And of course actually quantifying that growth might be way harder than I'm giving credit. 

-TJ

1 hour ago, tjZ06 said:

IDK... but I can tell you this, you find out real quick if you are replaceable or not.  It turns out it's a helluva way to get a raise. 

 

-TJ

Lol, realized I typoed, well just left a whole part out on this and am past the window to edit.  I meant to say "If you quit you find out real quick..."  I was posting during a work meeting, go figure. 

-TJ

41 minutes ago, Realbadlarry said:

Everyone is replaceable... it just takes time. 

 

Don't ever threaten anyone with YOUR job. 

I was mostly joking. 

TBH I had made the decision that it was time to leave, and was happy with that decision.  I didn't intend to use leaving as leverage, and didn't play it that way.  I had considered reaching out to some of the Sr. Leadership I've worked closely with over the last ~16 years first, but decided a) like I said I wasn't trying to leverage my resignation b) I *wanted* to leave so I didn't think it was appropriate to reach out to them when I fully intended to just say "no thanks" to anything they offered.  So, I spoke to my direct lead and let him know I was resigning, and willing to work with him on what the timeline and transition of responsibilities would look like.  2 days later the COO called me, and hey, I'm still here.  ;) 

In my particular case, we've been interviewing/trying to replace me for over a year and a half.  And this was by design/my doing... not done behind me back.  I've wanted a change, be it internal or external for some time.  Replacing me has been a blocker to that. 

-TJ