Fullthrottleguy

its only money - go for it!

100% agree the problem is and was common.I think the honest builders out there will tell you the lower and mid priced trailers do a bad job isolating Alum and steel and will all have galvanic corrosion in 5-10 years - Most rely on paint or Glue to isolate but always seem to miss that a few screws are going through it all or a couple staples are rubbing through the paint, Like anything proper prep prevents it, but takes time and precision, that does not match the get it done quick attitude most of the builders have. it does not take much contact but takes time to eat through. Higher end all aluminum trailers seem to hold up, but theI are generally not cheap ...

That just sucks ... Bad timing ... but fresh start as long as no one was harmed so sorry to hear about it ...

My buddy is doing his right now - he sent me his spreadsheet

LOL and Jeff gas was $2.50 a gallon - everything is 2x now

The reskinning done right is a pretty time consuming process , been there a couple times . its lots of labor. Materials are up in cost too - depending on the length of the trailer- the panels ar e 49" wide (48 with and inch over lap) ands they cost abiout $140 each painted but the VHB tape and Silkaflex to adhere them is about half as much more per panel and you have to do a roof and from and rear and you likely will replace all the trim rather than try to clean and reuse - but labor is usually still 60% of the cost. if you want a toyhauler and not an enclosed trailer - its going to be expensive. A few places I know still do those UltraSantek probably is the most reliable. ATC not in SoCal makes some very nice pieces If its just an Enclosed you have a few good choices including NewTrend, Universal, and Fractal

thats a lot of car for the $$$

Posting for a friend- He was building a new car and found his dream car So the trans has to go - Contact him for info .. Brand new S4D transaxle available now - built by Kevin McMullen. Has all current/updated internals available and is set up for rear engine. Easy to make it mid-engine. If purchased today from Weddle, there’s more than a 6 month lead-time for this. 4:63 R & P 2:91 - 1st 1:93 - 2nd 1:44 - 3rd 1:20 - 4th Chevy bell housing REM polish labor (done) Maxima Oil (already in trans) Gear Shift Indicator sensor (potentiometer) (installed) $19,500 I also have the following NEW items available for purchase separately. *Weddle 11” twin disc clutch assembly $1600 *Sequential shifter $680 Call or text Kevin 951-551-7415

Very Nice Car - sent my Buddy Kevin your way

I need to pull the mags from garage stash - I also found all these sandsports and Sand addictions if anyone wants them they date back to 1996 and 2004 respectively

I have probably all of them - yours if you want them free - I am just keeping the one's I am in Hit me up and we can meet in the dunes

Adios Gertrude - Congrats on the sale ...

Gertrude is a looker - good luck with the sale

Like @J Alper said LS1 block are not the "best" choice even if you are moving over components from and existing LS1 engine. The L33 Aluminum 5.3 and the LS6 (same block and sleeve - different bore) are stronger where it counts and the L33 can comfortably go to 5.7 and even .005 over. But they are harder to find and have gone up in price lately. Newer 5.3 Alums from GM trucks (they have DOD) are not guaranteed to go to out to 5.7 as they have some core shift, you should always sonic test them - Been there and 1 out 4 were what I would call musable. But they are better and cheaper as most LS1's out there have lots of miles and .005 bore will not always get the cylinders round - 50% chance if you buy a used LS1 - it will be unusable as a performance engine. The Ls6 is a great engine if you need that bore, but they are like Unicorns now. There are a lot of LS2 blocks out there and having a 4" bore is nice because you can run heads with unshrouded valves like the popular LS3/L92 head, and even with Cathedral port LS1 heads you will see a HP gain due to the valve being farther from the side of the bore (I like catherals on LS2/LS3 for the sand - way more low end). GM did some changes to improve windage and oil control but its insignificant. The sleeves are like the LS6, longer than the LS3 so they work better for strokers but prices are nuts .... If anyone has a reasonable LS2 block they want to sell - pm me The LS3 has all the advantages of the LS2 (except short sleeves) and has the windage a little more figured out. New and used they cost the same as LS2's from what I have seen lately (CA) and like the LS2 the bore is over 4" - if you are moving LS1 parts (like a stroker kit) to LS2 or LS3 - simple Piston swap (and rebalance - at least the pistons) and you have more cubes and better overall and stronger engine - all the other LS1 parts will fit LS7 is a good block, but now things get expensive ... Iron blocks are cheap and plentiful in 5.3 to bore to 5.7, and super strong, but Personally I would not want that extra 110lbs Some of the Junkyard on the east coast still have LS1 blocks for sale, they are old school and you have to call them- but they are aropund

Do happen you have one 2"x16" King coil over taking up space? Maybe a spare? or extra? or even a pair. I don't care if its emulsion, piggy back, or remote Resi, I need one and will reconfigure it. I know it's a long shot, but throwing it out - let me know what you got ... thanks

sent PM

PM sent '

Nice kit good quality regulator

I sold my F250 and my SRT Challenger to Carmax right before the Pandemic they were 10 of 10 and I got top dollar no hassle, both times had to UBER home Its very nice truck and you just need to find the right buyer ... And while I hear stuff selling over asking and selling in hours, truck wise I have only seen that with pre- DEF Diesels so far. I also do think its true many of us (here) are waiting out the "bubble" But we all have friends and relatives that are looking, I have already sent the ad to two myself. "Creampuffs" are hard to find and you are a perfectionist ... GLWTS

Every day we lose a bit more freedom...

Slightly off subject, but I really like the Buggy whip using the center pin of the connector for the light/LED rather than separate wire and connector hanging out- Does anyone know if any more-reasonably price whips do it that way other than the faint "glowing" type ?

When I made Cobra replicars- we would get people asking us to splash fenders and parts for those cars ....I have fixed a few Excalibers like that ... Most were on a ford full size (500 series) chassis. Many are pretty hacked up They make an AMC (All Makes of Cars) look well designed There were at least 5 copies of the Excaliber with slightly different body panels and grilles all splashed from the excaliber no two had all the same parts or interiors: I have seen 10 copies on Ford chassis for every one real excaliber on a GM or stuebaker chassis this is how they started: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Excalibur_(automobile)#:~:text=The Excalibur automobile was a,by Brooks Stevens for Studebaker.&text=A prototype premiered at car,) Studebaker 289 V-8.

I have owned so many enclosed trailers and most I had built, many from Universal and on each one I found something new I wanted. Congrats on the new Trailer A lot was covered above but here is my list sorry its long Under floor storage. Lights, lights and lights - 110 and 12v all LED Solar and 2 batteries Generator auto switch pull in so I can power from the MoHo Generator and 110v outlets Folding down/up workbench - and if you can get a Vise that detaches Tool box upfront and a storage tote upfront and upper front cabinets Compressor underneath 4 Low Profile tanks Motion lamp by the side door - so I can use the key at night and drunk friends won't stratch the door with key trying to find the lock at night stabilizer jacks on the back - I work in the trailer sometimes and we set up a big table and do dinners sometimes at least two roof vents LOTS of d rings - 4 up front, 4 in back 2 on the sides Fuel station with an Inside switch and fuel gauge - NO bump out on the side for the filler - its annoying Spare tire holder inside by the back door - and have them weld it on - not bolt it (I have own 4 new universals) Trailer winch - the enclosed trailer type - not a universal winch Back door upper LED lights - really helps unloading Inside floor coverings are a hard one - LineX is great to wash down, it also hold sand and if do a burn out on it - it sucks to fix and E85 will eat it Vinyl sucks but its easy and cheap to replace every couple years... But llast two trailers I painted the floor with epoxy and jusy touched it up with a roller 2x a year -I think its smarter but not baller Axles and wheels - I Hate 3 wheel trailers for backing and turning - I like 2 wheel and 5200 lbs axles and 6 lug 16" tires. If you can do a small water tank and pump with and outside faucet in the wall its great for washing up electric jack up front is nice too Walkable roof and a ladder - thats last on the list because it adds weight and you hardly every use it, but they seem not flex as much and they take less maintenance ALSO painted(coated) factory panels fade fast - the electro dip coating is thin - get it ceramic coated or doo it yourself, and even if you have a front "rock guard" stainless - got that clear bra'd I did one of the trailers in 2016 and I Painted it with epoxy paint as soon as I got it to my shop - it was a lot of work and expensive, I still see it around and it looks new - factory coating just fades - Not sure what shop would charge to paint a trailer - most people end up wrapping them when they fade and paint is probably cheaper If you have a Tall Moho 18" extra height - it comes in handy Stackers are nice if you can town it and have a Tall Moho and have lots of $$$ If you want to break the law (I NEVER would..) Go 105" ________ Things I hated: side cabinets - I have a nice scar on my head from that Fold down couch - it was great to bench race on windy days but took too much room AC - never used it Windows - Eff''in thief callers Diamond plate rear door and runners - looked awesome - Ice skating when wet - I actually removed mine had it Power coated with clear and sand - expensive fix ...